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Blind Bearing Removal

Joined May 2011
700 Posts | 3+
Wisconsin, U.S.
Does anybody have any tricks/ideas to getting the blind bearings out of the case halves for replacment, i have 3 different slide hammer sets but none can get behind the bearings to pull, i have 3 bearings that i cannot get to budge, i took the cases into my local bike shop who broke one of there special tools trying to get them out and also did not get them to budge, there mechanic has always been pretty good and said he was out of ideas, was hoping to have this thing running by weekend but am being held up only by these 3 blind bearings that are stuck

before i turned the cases over to the bike shop i did try heating the case around one of the bearings then using the slide hammer but still no go, i guess i could freeze the cases overnight then maybe use heat before trying to pull them. these are old cases for an old bike and if a beak the case in the process i may be screwed for good.

any help would really be appreciated....
 
12,000th post

i crudely welded a shaft in the bearings once but the welding was bird s**t welding. at least i got the job done.

regards

Taffy
 
conrgats on being the all time super poster! haha

you welded what where? sounds like a good idea already but having difficulty imagining what exactly you did...

thanks taffy
 
I just stuck a huge shaft in the hole and welded it to the inner race. awful welding but got there in the end. then i stuck the shaft in the vice and tapped away at the cover in an even fashion.

I think the nearest to me is like 3,000 posts. I didn't know you could talk that much about Husabergs!

regards

Taffy
 
haha, i didnt know you could talk that much about husabergs either, you should get ahold of the guiness book of world record people!!

the welding thing throws a few more possiblities into the endless mesh of gears spinning in my head,

i did tell the guy at the bike shop that the cases were priceless and better not be broken when i come back, maybe i just scared him so they dont want to touch in anymore :lol:
 
Just welding might do it on its own. The process will shrink the bearing a bit. Obviously its got to be done carefully by a real welder. This is how I get steering head races out from ally tubes that have no lip exposed for a drift. A bead of weld and they literally fall out.
 
Putting the case in the oven doese'nt work? That's what the manual says to do. 300°F for I don't remember how long.
Prly 1/2 hour or so. That's how they say to install them also. Cases in the oven, bearings in the freezer. They drop right in apparently.
 
Wow, i got a lot of responses on this one thanks guys, must have sensed my desperity :D

I heated it, the bike shop heated it, the machinist who got the bearings out did not heat it and had no problems, he said his puller fit in the inner races perfectly...

On one of the bearings i tried, i pulled out the inner race, broke the cage and took out the rollers to gain access to the inner race and to try to get a puller on the inner race lip but couldnt pop it even with heat. the bike shop said they tried putting the cases in the freezer as well as heat and i saw there two broken pullers, they were actaul blind bearing pullers with there outer pulling groove stripped off, lol, should have bought a snap-on i guess..

all in all the local engine clinic resolved it for 20$ and an 45 worth of time.

I wouldnt have thought to even ask him but on lunch break i picked up the cases' from the bike store then picked up my sleeve from honing and asked him to take a look, guess i should have started there first....

thanks guys for all the great responses, really appreciated :cheers:

hope to be rolling this ****** by weekend
 
For future reference... Fill the bearing with grease, just below the top. Insert the shaft that runs in it and with the casing supported and sat on a piece of card (so you don't mark it) hold the shaft aligned plum with bearing and take nylon or copper mallet in hand and whack it.. You really need a helper 8O so you are in total control...The bearing will rise steadily before your eyes :D be carefully not to bottom the drift if the bearing doesn't pop out.. Simply remove drift and add more grease :D
You can use either the shaft or piece of round bar.. It needs to be a close fit. Even a bolt will do .. If you have mates in engineering they can make you a drift.. But most bearings are std even number diameters that you can match up easily.. Your drift needs to be a loose clear fit.. Not a bearing fit as such.. Or your drift will be then attached to the bearing....Dooooooo !!!!!
You can also set this up in a vice.. And as such press it out under more control.. Of course a hydraulic press is the ideal.. But not always available..
Re fitting... The casing needs to be warm... A heat gun or even a hair dryer will do.. Circulate over the area and then place bearing over... And ensure its aligned flat,,, gently tap around the outside and push it in.. If you have the luxury of getting a drift made... Make it with a shoulder and this can be then be used for re fitting the bearing..
Hope you all get me ?????
 
Hi

Great tip, never thought of nothing like that :bow:

One question, if you have a NU or NJ bearing, like bergini shure has for example on that shaft of the gears of the starter (on the front of the engine), will it work ? It will not be so easy to seal that one.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
Not sure of the fitment.... And type... I think these are bigger non sealed bearings ???? Freeze the lot... Heat the surround with heat gun/hair dryer.. Invert and holding firmly bang it down... Or even scoop it out :D bearings on a shaft, fitted snug to a gear... You need a splitting wedge or cold chisel.. Drive a gap between em then use pullers and draw it off.. You'll be surprised at how easy it is to do.. And won't smash the lot to bits in frustration..
NBC !!! Return the hair dryer to the place from which you borrowed it minus oily finger prints... :bounce:
Avoiding lots of ear ache from her who must be obeyed :D lol
I'll read up on bearings and come back.. I don't want to be known as.. Hugebars... Dumb plum..
 
FWIW, to get the grease trick to work, you need to break out the cage and needles, else all that happens is the grease escapes through them. This usually then means machining up a drift to suit. Works great when it works too. Used to do it this way removing bronze spigot bushes from car flywheels.

Great to hear its under contr5ol though. The right tool for the job usually makes a difference, especially used by the right operator.
 
Your right steve, probably the only way that this will work on this type of bearings is to remove the rolers and make a shaft to the dimension of the outside ring.

Hugebars, from what I've seen there are no blind bearings on the bergs cases that are sealed, so don't know if your first solution will work in this cases.

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
I've always put time in the equation. in the time it takes to write this post I found a shaft, shoved it in the hole, turned the welder on and strapped the earth up and welded it. about 60 seconds were allowed for reverse tapping it.

job done. don't ANY of you put a value on 'time taken?'.

regards

Taffy
 
Where there's a will there's a way.. But brute force and ignorance is the last chance saloon.. The been there before and done that surely help's..
I work mostly on industrial machines and bikes are a hobby.. Bearings are only an interference fit.. And the 1 hot and 1 cold usually works.. But sometimes we are not so lucky to have it all to hand..
All I'll say is... Leave the 2lb hammer for major adjustments not minor one's :D
This site and its info is worth hrs of not wasting time and effort and adding expense in un necessary damage..
Happy days fellow berg men :bounce:
Ps.. Adjustable spanners should be banned !!!
 

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