This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bleeding my Magura LHRB

V

vwhusaberg

Joined Oct 2008
59 Posts | 0+
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
I'm running a Revloc clutch and am using the mineral oil magura clutch master with a braided steel line straight to my rear caliper.

I cannot, for the life of me, get this thing to bleed! I've tried reverse bleeding with pressure using a big syringe, regular bleeding, gravity bleeding, etc. I even tried removing the whole system and putting the master cylinder on the floor and the caliper up above it, with a hose attached to the bleeder, extending upward to the syringe....etc, etc. Didn't work.

The best I can get is a very spongy brake that can lock the rear wheel, but it's very inconsistent, and doesn't work the next day. I was an auto mechanic for 10 years, and have never had this much trouble bleeding brakes. I've read other posts about this, but haven't found the answer. How is it done?
 
Ya, there's air in it for sure. I'll try bleeding it one more time, and if it doesn't work, I'll have to try rebuilding the master like Taffy suggested.
 
I had the same problem. You need a new cup in the master cyl. Then it will pump right thru. Squeeze and hold the handle, crack open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the handle- repeat until satisfied.
Then you just have to remember that the left side lever is not a clutch anymore. A long high speed slide did the trick for me.
 
I just converted my Magura clutch to a LHRB with the dot 5 silicone brake fluid and it works great. I did bleed it in both directions using a syringe to reverse bleed it first then leaving the syringe on I bleed it back to the syringe, it was surprising how much air came out when I was bleeding back into the syringe. You really have to watch the fluid level in the M/cyl as it doesn't hold much.
 
Penguin74q said:
I had the same problem. You need a new cup in the master cyl. Then it will pump right thru. Squeeze and hold the handle, crack open the bleeder, close the bleeder, release the handle- repeat until satisfied.
Then you just have to remember that the left side lever is not a clutch anymore. A long high speed slide did the trick for me.
Click to expand...

I crack the bleeder, squeeze the lever, close the bleeder, release the lever and repeat. With the primed syringe hooked up air can't get in and the plunger moves back as you bleed fluid into it, easy to see when you have all the air out too.
 
another thing to look for is that the piston in the M/C must be released all the way back. also if you can't see the silver dot that is the piston = you have silt in the fluid but i don't think this will be the problem. i just get the feeling that the change in fluids knocked the liops off the seals.

regards

Taffy
 
Ok, thanks guys, I'm going to order the seals. When you guys were done bleeding, did you have a nice hard lever just like your front brake?
 
Almost, the Silicone brake fluid doesn't seem to give as firm a lever as the Dot 4 did when I originally used the Rekluse LHRB m/cyl. I have heard the same elsewhere about the silicone fluid.
 
Been there, done that. The problem is the silicone fluid, tiny air bubbles form in the silicone fluid exceptionally easy. Just pour a little into a clear container and you will see hundreds of tiny bubbles. You will likely NEVER get the silicone fluid to work. I tried it, couldn't ever get it to work, so I cleaned everything out (brake cleaner & air) put in Motul 5.1. Problem solved!
 
After I bled all of the air out my system, the lever was still soft. Tho I found the brake worked fine when riding. I removed the cover from the master cylinder and let it sit for a few days. Voila, firm brake. My guess is the entrained bubbles migrated out.
 
I had the same problem with the clutch yesterday, went for a hamburger and it was fixed :eek: With the brakes no problem but I've the idea that with the more straight line of the clutch hose, the air bubble moves only up and down somehow. Your rear brake is probably the same, almost no bends in the hose. Gravity is a good thing except when loosing the bike in mid air.

Best regards,
Stephan
 
vwhusaberg said:
using the mineral oil magura clutch master with a braided steel line straight to my rear caliper.
Click to expand...

why use that mc?
did you get the black mc?
 
It might be, however many of us here and on KTMTalk are using converted clutch master cylinders with the LHRB with no adverse effects.
 

Similar threads

1
70degree engine and clutch slave bleeding...
Replies
4
Views
1K
tpayne
T
J
FE390 front brake
Replies
1
Views
555
Rainerio
Rainerio
Taffy
New - improved carb needle 2004-2008
Replies
3
Views
2K
FlyingZebra
FlyingZebra
Lost Rider
For Sale Husaberg FE570 Parts - like new.
Replies
9
Views
3K
Lost Rider
Lost Rider
K
magura clutch woes
Replies
8
Views
3K
enginenumber
enginenumber

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions