Black spark plug

According to the 2001 repair shop manual, @ TDC, of the two marks on the flywheel, the right mark on the flywheel should line up with the stator.

Plug cap is a good point, it should measure 5K ohms, or 5,000 ohms resistance. Good bite on top of plug, IE not a loose fit.

Did you set up your carb with the stock settings I posted?

Did you COMPLETELY (I can't stress this enough) dis-assemble the carb and clean it up properly and blow out all passages & jets with compressed air? What did the choke look like? On occassion mine has been full of crud, but, more importantly it was still sealing properly against the little nipple in the bottom of the well where it lives. Is the cable adjusted right so that it will seat all the way? There should be a little play in that cable.

Does your overflow tube drool and gas out while just sitting there?

What is the condition of the vent tubes on the carb? Free, clear, and flexible? Spiders build their webs in the damndest places.

Set the float level? Did you try taking your floats off the guide shaft and shaking them to see if they had any gas in them indicating a bad float? Do the float arms move freely?

A friend of mine with an XR650 recently had some problems that were traced to the damn float needle and seat, put in a new needle and seat and wa la, no more sputtering.


Do you mop up the oil that collects in the air elbow below the filter between changes? This can obstruct the air inlet passage for the idle circuit as well.

What's the condition of your stator? Are the pick up points clean and free of rust? Any cracks in the epoxy? All electrical connectors/connections clean?

Valves adjusted properly?

There used to be a guide or check list for the SEM ignitions that had numerous checks in it, and I'm sure I have it in my files somewhere, I'll scan it and mail it to schwim and he can post it if it's not already in the owners doc.

This was just about all that I can think of other than making sure your freaking kill switch, at the bars, or key switch is not causing the problem. You could try disconnecting them at the coil, orange wire, to make certain that you're not bleeding off some juice.

Good luck.

DaleEO-

Could you please send me a copy of the SEM check sheet you are referring to please. I am trying to put together an electrical guide that covers as much as possible so that Taff can add it to the owners doc and every little piece of info helps... I have so many dead ends I need to clear up. Thanks

Regards,

the stator is a wedge fit on a shoulder nick. prise it off gently all the way around using an 'L' bar or similar (jemmy). if you do get it off, clean around the rim with a bit of emery cloth and put some grease on the lip when refitting. i also gently rubbed down the stator to get fresh metal showing and then put vasoline on the tips.

try to adjust the ignition again please and forget where the phuq the flywhel sits for a minute just do as i ask for once!

unless you have done what's known as a 'dead stop check using a protractor - you don't actually know where TDC is ok?

regards

Taffy

the stator is a wedge fit on a shoulder nick. prise it off gently all the way around using an 'L' bar or similar (jemmy). if you do get it off, clean around the rim with a bit of emery cloth and put some grease on the lip when refitting. i also gently rubbed down the stator to get fresh metal showing and then put vasoline on the tips.

try to adjust the ignition again please and forget where the phuq the flywheel sits for a minute just do as i ask for once!

unless you have done what's known as a 'dead stop' check using a protractor - you don't actually know where TDC is ok?

regards

Taffy

Right!

Not too worry about the Pilot Screw setting, I posted that setting on your other thread, with, all the stock jetting.

You can find the jets I'm sure from Dan at Motoxotica 707-446-4282.

With the kick start auto-de-compressor adjusted properly you should not hit TDC really hard if you've started from the very top. With the motor set at TDC, like you're doing a valve adjustment, there should be about 2-3mm of play at the kickstart/ manual decompressor lever.

Hello, Frog. DrC again. I read some more of your posts. I think your bike would start much better if you richen up that pilot jet a couple of notches. I run a 38 and I just set the choke and kick it through slowly once, then kick it hard and it starts first kick usually. I then immediately turn off choke and it will idle smoothly until I'm ready to ride. I run my pilot a little rich so I don't have to depend on the choke, and I havn't fouled a plug since I can recall. I do keep the idle speed low as it helps starting, too. By the way, I've got an extra 185 mj, and a 45 pilot jet I could throw in an envelope and you'd have by wed. If you're interested, pm me and I'll be happy to help. I got my jets from Premier Motorsports in Phoenix. Good Luck :idea:

Two years ago I had problem starting when cold, below/around zero degrees. I used choke and no choke plenty of times before it started. I lowered the idle speed and without any adjustment of the mixture, it started easy.

I assume that if the throttle is to high up the air flow hasn't enough speed to get the right mixture.

I think you answered your question yourself when you were talking about the present jetting and the proposed new jetting. New specs look close, but I run a 40 pilot. Premier will probably have the stuff on hand and you could drive over there.
dan