Here is list of items that I will check or modify to prepare my 450 for the ISDE.
Metzeler bib mousse will be installed into Pirelli tires and a spare set prepared in the container for install at the end of day 1 and beginning of day 2. I don't use a rim lock in the front wheel.
All the axles will be lightly lubed, no heavy grease is used since dirt accumulation slows reassembly in later days. If mud is built up around axles etc a wire brush will be used to clean.
A heavier spring, 84-250, for my robust glutimus maximus will replace the std rear spring. I'll decide between 4.4 and 4.6 fork springs when I get there, I'll go 4.6 if the hill are steep. If the terrain is realively flat, by Rocky Mountain stds, then only the 4.4 will be installed. For the six days, lighter springs are better as the bike will settle into a corner better, and well, special test times are the name of the game.
My tall seat with the OEM black seat covet w/route card pocket will replace the std seat. Gotta love the tall seat, or couch as I often call it. Its not only 20 mm taller but a little wider across the top and easier to grip with the knees.
I'll install Enduro Engineering handgaurds with plastic wings after I trim the grips and safety wire them in three spots. This is done after I drop the forks and front wheel on my feet trying to install the post for my GPR 2.0.
Finally the last add on, one of BOSS's very fine skid plates is mounted to the frame rails. Slick and sano, I can't wait for the dull thud of the first rock or stump to be denied.
Next step is locktiting any bolt I can in my paranoid fixation of troubleshooting. I dab silicone or goop onto the rear brake clivis pin clip so that it isn't lost and the same is done to the counter shaft clip so it isn't lost either. A dollop of Goop is also used on the head of fender bolts that screw into aluminum, so galling does not occur and the bolt still will not rattle out.
Ok, so there may be a little freestyler in me as sponsor stickers are added to the bike along with my given number. Clear will be added to the front headlight to keep it from shattering if it is broken. The rear flap will be shortened as much as possible after the liscence plate is mounted.
I don't think I'll really need it, but I'll tape the bottom of the fuel tank with foil tape keep the fuel cooler and engine heat away.
Once a 100 + km is put on the bike then it is gone over, break in oil changed out, the valves checked and well, maybe that will be all. The jetting should have been sorted out and if not adjustments made.
Now all I'll need to deal with is routine maintanance, tire changes and crash damage.
Fry
Metzeler bib mousse will be installed into Pirelli tires and a spare set prepared in the container for install at the end of day 1 and beginning of day 2. I don't use a rim lock in the front wheel.
All the axles will be lightly lubed, no heavy grease is used since dirt accumulation slows reassembly in later days. If mud is built up around axles etc a wire brush will be used to clean.
A heavier spring, 84-250, for my robust glutimus maximus will replace the std rear spring. I'll decide between 4.4 and 4.6 fork springs when I get there, I'll go 4.6 if the hill are steep. If the terrain is realively flat, by Rocky Mountain stds, then only the 4.4 will be installed. For the six days, lighter springs are better as the bike will settle into a corner better, and well, special test times are the name of the game.
My tall seat with the OEM black seat covet w/route card pocket will replace the std seat. Gotta love the tall seat, or couch as I often call it. Its not only 20 mm taller but a little wider across the top and easier to grip with the knees.
I'll install Enduro Engineering handgaurds with plastic wings after I trim the grips and safety wire them in three spots. This is done after I drop the forks and front wheel on my feet trying to install the post for my GPR 2.0.
Finally the last add on, one of BOSS's very fine skid plates is mounted to the frame rails. Slick and sano, I can't wait for the dull thud of the first rock or stump to be denied.
Next step is locktiting any bolt I can in my paranoid fixation of troubleshooting. I dab silicone or goop onto the rear brake clivis pin clip so that it isn't lost and the same is done to the counter shaft clip so it isn't lost either. A dollop of Goop is also used on the head of fender bolts that screw into aluminum, so galling does not occur and the bolt still will not rattle out.
Ok, so there may be a little freestyler in me as sponsor stickers are added to the bike along with my given number. Clear will be added to the front headlight to keep it from shattering if it is broken. The rear flap will be shortened as much as possible after the liscence plate is mounted.
I don't think I'll really need it, but I'll tape the bottom of the fuel tank with foil tape keep the fuel cooler and engine heat away.
Once a 100 + km is put on the bike then it is gone over, break in oil changed out, the valves checked and well, maybe that will be all. The jetting should have been sorted out and if not adjustments made.
Now all I'll need to deal with is routine maintanance, tire changes and crash damage.
Fry
