It has been suggested to me by several folks who plan on attending FR 3 that we need to get a thread started as to how to prep one's bike for this epic ride. In fact this was suggested to me again this morning by one of the fellas who will be one of the Trail ride leaders. So, I'll lead off here with his suggestions and some of my own, please add anything you think is necessary. The following suggestions are intended for you and those with you to have a trouble free ride, a ride where you concentrate on riding and not nursing a sickly motorcycle.
Tires and Tubes: Run a good quality heavy duty off road tire and heavy duty tubes. The area can be rocky, with lots of square edged rocks. Make sure your tires are properly inflated as well. Also, throw a spare 21" tube in your pack, or strap one to your bike in case you do get a flat. There will be experienced hands on the trail with you to help get your tire changed, they will just need a tube to replace yours with.
Fuel system: Make sure your tank and carb are clean and free of water. The average low in Gunnison at the end of September and beginning of October is between 32 and 22 F, and it will be even colder up in the mountains where we are going to be riding. If there is any water in your system it will freeze and give you fits. Good news here is that during the day the average temp is between 60 and 65. http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimat ... undeclared
Jetting: Gunnison is at 7700', and we will be riding up to possibly 12,000 to 13,000'. So you know your bike will be running pretty rich up there, and get really crappy mileage if you don't drop down a couple of jet sizes on your main and at least one on your pilot if it's running good at 1000'. See the Fuel section of the Tech forums for folks who ride a bike like yours at high altitudes for suggestions.
Cooling system: Not that the temps are going to be high at the time of year we are riding at, but, water boils much easier at high altitudes as there is less atmospheric pressure. Why not give your system a good flush and throw on a new radiator cap, or, at least get your cap tested for proper strength.
Chain and Sprockets: If they don't look good they probably aren't replace them with good sprockets and a quality O ring chain and not worry about it for the whole ride.
Brakes: Never bled your system since you've owned your bike?? Brake fluid looks dark in the reservoir? Then it's time to replace that old fluid with some new DOT 4 or better fluid. The reason the fluid turns dark is that it is absorbing moisture, and since moisture has 02 in it, it is now going to corrode your internal brake parts. Once the fluid gets moisture in it, the boiling point of the brake fluid decreases dramatically. Pull the calipers off, and remove the brake pads and clean all the crud that's built up in there underneath the pads and the spring retainers. Clean and lube the pins that the caliper floats on, and throw on a new set of pads if yours are worn. You'll be amazed at how much better your brakes work when your done with this.
Wheel bearings: Check the front and rear for play, you know what to do if you find play. Check the spokes while you're at it.
Swing arm and Steering head: Can't remember when the last time you did this was? Get on it and save your self some bucks with a few cents of grease.
Cables and Levers: Give them the once over and enjoy smooth controls.
Suspension: Weeping seals? When was the last time you serviced your suspension?
Nuts, bolts, : Check them all. If you have some pesky bolts that always seem to come loose just a touch of blue loc tite will end that trouble.
Electrical system and connections: Check your wiring loom in those area's where things are rubbing on the harness for chaffing and exposed conductors. For those of you that have a charging system, make sure the battery connections are tight, and keep your battery on a tender. Does the electric starter run out of power after just a couple of starts? Might be time for a new battery, the service life on a YTZ 7 S is typically 3 years. The voltage might show good, but, when you hit the button it acts flat? Thats a good sign that the battery is a goner.
Muffler and spark arrestor: Can't remember the last time you did this? Might be worth throwing in some new packing or least checking the packing you have. Spark arrestors are not only required, they are the right thing to do. Make sure yours is USFS approved and is stamped on the outside. From Colorado state parks web site: b. Except as provided in section 33-14.5-109 C.R.S., no person shall operate an off-highway vehicle upon public land in this state unless the off-highway vehicle is equipped with a spark arrestor in good working order which has been approved by the U.S. Forest Service as evidenced by the bona fide permanent marking of “qualifiedâ€Â
Tires and Tubes: Run a good quality heavy duty off road tire and heavy duty tubes. The area can be rocky, with lots of square edged rocks. Make sure your tires are properly inflated as well. Also, throw a spare 21" tube in your pack, or strap one to your bike in case you do get a flat. There will be experienced hands on the trail with you to help get your tire changed, they will just need a tube to replace yours with.
Fuel system: Make sure your tank and carb are clean and free of water. The average low in Gunnison at the end of September and beginning of October is between 32 and 22 F, and it will be even colder up in the mountains where we are going to be riding. If there is any water in your system it will freeze and give you fits. Good news here is that during the day the average temp is between 60 and 65. http://www.weather.com/weather/wxclimat ... undeclared
Jetting: Gunnison is at 7700', and we will be riding up to possibly 12,000 to 13,000'. So you know your bike will be running pretty rich up there, and get really crappy mileage if you don't drop down a couple of jet sizes on your main and at least one on your pilot if it's running good at 1000'. See the Fuel section of the Tech forums for folks who ride a bike like yours at high altitudes for suggestions.
Cooling system: Not that the temps are going to be high at the time of year we are riding at, but, water boils much easier at high altitudes as there is less atmospheric pressure. Why not give your system a good flush and throw on a new radiator cap, or, at least get your cap tested for proper strength.
Chain and Sprockets: If they don't look good they probably aren't replace them with good sprockets and a quality O ring chain and not worry about it for the whole ride.
Brakes: Never bled your system since you've owned your bike?? Brake fluid looks dark in the reservoir? Then it's time to replace that old fluid with some new DOT 4 or better fluid. The reason the fluid turns dark is that it is absorbing moisture, and since moisture has 02 in it, it is now going to corrode your internal brake parts. Once the fluid gets moisture in it, the boiling point of the brake fluid decreases dramatically. Pull the calipers off, and remove the brake pads and clean all the crud that's built up in there underneath the pads and the spring retainers. Clean and lube the pins that the caliper floats on, and throw on a new set of pads if yours are worn. You'll be amazed at how much better your brakes work when your done with this.
Wheel bearings: Check the front and rear for play, you know what to do if you find play. Check the spokes while you're at it.
Swing arm and Steering head: Can't remember when the last time you did this was? Get on it and save your self some bucks with a few cents of grease.
Cables and Levers: Give them the once over and enjoy smooth controls.
Suspension: Weeping seals? When was the last time you serviced your suspension?
Nuts, bolts, : Check them all. If you have some pesky bolts that always seem to come loose just a touch of blue loc tite will end that trouble.
Electrical system and connections: Check your wiring loom in those area's where things are rubbing on the harness for chaffing and exposed conductors. For those of you that have a charging system, make sure the battery connections are tight, and keep your battery on a tender. Does the electric starter run out of power after just a couple of starts? Might be time for a new battery, the service life on a YTZ 7 S is typically 3 years. The voltage might show good, but, when you hit the button it acts flat? Thats a good sign that the battery is a goner.
Muffler and spark arrestor: Can't remember the last time you did this? Might be worth throwing in some new packing or least checking the packing you have. Spark arrestors are not only required, they are the right thing to do. Make sure yours is USFS approved and is stamped on the outside. From Colorado state parks web site: b. Except as provided in section 33-14.5-109 C.R.S., no person shall operate an off-highway vehicle upon public land in this state unless the off-highway vehicle is equipped with a spark arrestor in good working order which has been approved by the U.S. Forest Service as evidenced by the bona fide permanent marking of “qualifiedâ€Â
