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Bigend bearing

C

Coastie

Joined Jan 2007
390 Posts | 0+
Central Coast NSW Australia
Hi Guys

Does anyone know if there's a bigend bearing available for the early type 00-03 (full circular weights) 650 crank?
Has someone opened 1 up and measured it?
The visible part of the pin measures 32mm.
Thanks

Coastie
 
i have the same crank and change the big end bearing every 100h, i can't remember the part number but i'm sure if you ask your dealer he knows!
 
yes I sell them coastie.

£90 for a pin and bearing fella. bit less for you fella.

regards

Taffy
 
Hi Taffy

I've finally got around to putting in that DVS Kit and kicker sledge that you sold me late last year.
It was on hold as I was in between homes.
I took the top end apart and then thought, bugger it, why stop there.
Thought I'd replace the mains and stuff cos I've been getting a few small bits of metal in the oil and they haven't been done in a few hundred hours.
Anyways the metal was coming from a screw that holds on the kickstart sledge. The gear had been grinding it away - been doing it for a while as you could only just see a little bit of the screwdriver slot. Good thing I've got new one's in the kit.

Back on topic - That's good to know. The little end bush measures OK and there's no noticeable play in the bigend but it hasn't been split since I've owned it.
I'm in 2 minds whether or not I should go and get it split apart and checked out or carry on regardless.
I don't wanna replace the whole rod assembly. If I know that I can get just the bearings/pins then I might go and get it pressed.
How many hours do get from a bearing?
Do you reckon the pin should be replaced even if it measures uip OK or can I just put a new bearing in there?

Cheers

Coastie
 
to me you do it while you're there and because you went to all that effort to get it apart and anyway - you're holding the parts and the clock goes back to zero again.

too many questions...

regards

Taffy
 
bummer with them big ends is you can't see whats going on, once its apart youve worn the crank a tad by pressing it open so might as well replace the pin and roller.

if you wash out the oil with petrol hold the rod with one hand and whack your other hand down on top of the rod its supposed to tell you if its stuffed by making a ringing noise. I thought it was a great tip till I did it on a brand new big end and it rang... steel roller cage rings, sintered metal does not unless the whole thing is stuffed.

if you go new coastie you'll be a very old man before you need a new one, re-use the old one and who knows.
 
Hi Bushy

Be nice to get in there and check em out before you actually cracked it wouldn't it.
I was sorta thinkin that pressing it apart couldn't be too good for it and I am a big believer in the "if it aint f##ked don't fix it" philosophy.
But then again, as Taffy says I've come this far.
I guess it'll come down to how much all the other stuff costs.
They don't seem to be a part prone to failure cos there's really not that much about them on here so maybe a safe bet .............or calculated risk .......or something?

Cheers

Coastie
 
How many hours dose the 32mm big end usualy last. I'm at at about 160 hours on mine.

regards
 
How long is a piece of string? thats gonna depend on type of use and maintanence. I have done 145 hours on my 04 650 and cant feel any wear obvious wear (motor dismantled) the big advantage of replaceing the big end is that you can make sure the internal lube holes are clear whilst in there (and of course piece of mind).
 
tish! tish!

go look in the doc at how I did it fella! costs ya nowt! not sure which section but rebuild/blue print etc will be about right.

spray gun principle!

regards

Taffy
 
yeah yeah eye seed that an all. ya reckon it would be fullproof in removing potential shrapnal? (please say yes coz then I wont need to press mine apart, tricky tho coz then you dont get to sell me a big end kit). My point being if ya gonna rebuild everything else then you wanna know everything inside is as clean as possable. I dont know how much motors cost over there but for the sake of 90 quid + machining its pretty cheap insurance!!??
 
If you believe its totally effective then I am more than happy to follow your advice. your the one that knows these thing inside out and I am happy to follow it. Please dont take offence but hey ive fallen off my bikes several times but im not convinced its the right thing to do haha. but then Im slow to learn. My concerns stem from owners doc about the criticalness(?) of ensuring the oil feed holes are clear. Your the GOD and I am happy to follow your religion bro. One day i may learn to keep my mouth shut but as i sed im slow to learn ( ive been called a computer before(have to punch the information in). Keep up the good work keeping idiots like me in check taffy.
 
there is a redundant oil passage in the crank. its to make it possible to drill the gallery from the centre up to the pin gallery. its plugged with a small grub screw.

in my crank a hell of a lot of crud builds up in the end of this gallery, its like a centafugeual thingymywhatsit.

thing with flushing the crank from either direction is that this crud starts to come out not being centrifuged any more I guess.

Taffys method pulls this crud away from the BE which is nice but it also mobilises some of the crud. I flushed my crank for 40 min this way and still had teeny lil bit balck residue comming out so I pull the grub screw and pump diesel out of there instead of the crank end. when its clear deisel comming out i put the grub screw back in and flush from the crank end.

you can use one of those manual wd40 pumps like a kitchen cleaner spray thing, it plugs right into the ID of the crank oil gallery
 
sounds better than pressing an otherwise perfectly good crank. good tip. cheers.
 

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