Better light

What year model bike? Check this thread:
http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... opic&t=361

spakur found some interesting info about bulbs & stuff. Apparently Husaberg has a glass lens headlight reflector available that takes a H4 bulb. To use a glass lens H4 unit from a Husky you need to make a couple of tinplate "L" brackets.

Connecting the two yellow winding wires will give you more than enough power. Using only one may be OK but would be borderline. If your bike runs a battery I'd use both.

No problem for the -02 standard wiring.

Xenon use 42W and gives around three times a Halogen.

Hey Husby -

Here's my night riding solution. Twin HID's with the equivalent of 500 watts...




~ Ken

Hey powercell

Nice night riding solution, but what about that skid plate, is it from motoxotica.

Thanx pineman

Here's a nice navigation solution...





~ Ken

I must tell that I like the bark busters. They fit the attitude of the bike. What is the brand?

Which HID do you use? We try to find light weight D1 ballasts.

// Mikael

When i smashed my front head light for the first time i thought that there had to be a better option than the original unit. When deciding to upgrade the lighting it had to;
1. Use the original headlight mask.
2. Look close to the original unit.
3. Provide better the 50% more candlepower.
4. Mount to the bike without modifying anything on the bike
I am not sure wether i am nuts or have just to much time on my hands but the solution that i came up with was to;
1. Remove the the broken glass from the original plastic headlight unit.
2. Cut the back out of the plastic body.
3. Cut a peice of 6mm alloy plate to fit into the recess where the glass used to originally fit.
4. Using a 4 jaw chuck in a lathe machine 2 holes with a step to take 2 x 12 volt halogen house dowlights.
5. Cut a peice of 5mm lexan to the same shape as the alloy plate.
6. Drill 4 x holes and use 4mm stainless allen screw to hols it all together.
Note:
- There is an "O" ring on either side of the light assembly to insulate the glass light assembly away from the alloy plate.
- One light is a spread beam and the other is a spread beam.
- Both are 50w units
7. Make an adapter loom to go from the globes back to the original loom on the bike.

The end result is a unit the takes the place of the original light body, a light that is much better than the original unit and it there are no mods to the bike. Given that the alternator outputs around 14 volts, the light will draw about 7 amps.

A breakdown of the unit can be found in my gallery.

Rod

Some use this solution with halogen spots instead of the original headlight.
I know one used 3X20W with a narrow beam, 8 degrees, to get the light there he wanted.

However, depending on weather, dust condition etc. you can use different solutions. For enduro I put my vote on helmet lights. If it is raining or it is a lot of dust a good light on the bike could be better but otherwise, helmet light is more important. If you haven’t tried it I think you really should.

When using halogen spots, only use the top of the line units. It's a big difference. On the paper Philips MasterLine ES is the best. The name of the Osram top of the line model I cannot remember. They are two-three times more expensive than the other but it is still no big deal. In Sweden it is less than 11 Euro for one unit. You shall use the one with 51mm reflector/lens. In my gallery you will find a cheap helmet light solution many uses.

Put the two yellow wires together or not. I will say it depends on.
If you put them together and connect everything to the battery you will lose around 10 W due to the conversion from AC to DC. On the other hand this is the only solution for HID. I haven’t checked this; does the bike run with both the yellow wires unconnected? If so, measure the voltage between the wires. If it’s not zero you will lose power if you put them together.

When my bike is running again I will do like this. I will make a tail light made of “light diodes”. Buying one is probably a better solution but it’s funny to do things by your own. I will put the original headlight over the battery. I have the 55/60 W model. The power to the helmet light I will take from the AC regulator. You probably will use more than the alternator gives the battery but then the headlight starts to fade away you just switch it of and only use the helmet light for a while. I promise you, the helmet light is enough if you don’t have power for a headlight too. If you only will go off-road, replace the headlight with halogen spots or take a reflector from a car and fit it to the bike.

If you will do a lot of off-road riding in the dark the HID is the outstanding solution. Anders Eriksson uses three units. Two on the bike and one on the helmet. All driven by separate batteries. The original headlight he also uses. See his photos, http://www.ae-racing.com/sv/pics.php?id=14. That race was a little wet.

Powercell - Your bike is DEFINITELY female! You could use a bra as a headlight protector during the day, but I'm not sure where the panties would fit?

I forgot one thing, does anyone know when Husaberg stopped to use full wave current limit relay/regulator?
If you don't have that you will lose more than approximate 10 W if you put everything over the battery.

mikst - My apologies if I have not read what you meant.

My bike has only a half wave regulator on the charging system. I'm pretty sure this is the same as used on the first 'bergs produced & I think was used up to at least the change of 2001. There is a document in the downloads section about the charging system that explains what I found in the charging system.

Brad, you are a pretty good interpreter.

I checked the parts manual. -01 a new rectifier was used. What I have been told, this should be a full wave but I haven't checked myself.
The voltage regulator is similar from -89 to -03, I would guess. -04 the rectifier and the voltage regulator are replaced.

The document is nice. Now I understand some more about the system but there are still more to learn about the electrical system.

99-00 Electric started models=Fullwave
01-02 Halfwave
03 Same as 99-00
04 Halfwave again.

May help the translation to define difference between rectifier & regulator.

The rectifier is the electric diode ("valve") unit that converts the back & forth alternating current (AC) pulses from the stator to go in the same direction to make direct current (DC). A full wave rectifier turns the reverse pulses from the stator around so they go in the same direction as the forward pulses and adds them to the forward pulses, hence the entire output of the stator is converted to DC. A half wave rectifier allows the forward pulses to pass but blocks the reverse pulses, hence not all of the stator output gets converted to DC. The only reason you would use the half wave rectifier is that it allows one side of the stator winding to be connected to ground ie the engine block. With the full wave none of the stator wires can be connected to ground. A full wave rectifier like on my bike is a block about 30mm x 30mm x 10mm with four spade connections & wires on it.

The regulator is the device that prevents the voltage from the stator from going too high by shorting it out, where the high voltage could cause damage to the battery or blow bulbs. The regulator works on the AC power from the stator. The bit where I mentioned it was half wave on my bike refers to the regulator only being able to short the stator while its output is going in the forward direction. In reverse the regulator can do nothing & the voltage can go as high as it wants to. The regulator is a block about 40mm x 40mm x 15mm with either two wires into it or one wire into it & another on the mounting bolt. It has to be mounted so that its metal body is insulated from the frame of the bike.

Tholen, is these data regarding the rectifier or the regulator?

99-00 (electric started) and 03 uses a combined regulator/rectifier.All 70+70W goes thru the battery.Very good.

01-02 uses 70W to light,AC-current with the old regulator (older than 01 without electric start) and ca 20 of 70W DC to the battery via a separate regulator/rectifier, rest is not used.Not so good.Easy to change to 99-00,03 model.

04(Kokusan) uses another model of combined rectifier/regulator,ca 50W AC and 20W DC. Two parallell windings that can be changed to one winding with ca 70W DC by using the 99-00, 03 regulator.