Battery Issues - New 2003 FE 501

Jeff, welcome aboard.

The OEM battery may not be the best choice for the pre-2004 models. Everybody recommends the Yuasa YTZ7S with a serious charger like the Optimate III.

It fits in the Berg and it gives you over 13 volts and quite a lot of cranking amps.

I also rebuilt all the cabling from the battery to the solenoid, starter and frame, using 8-gauge wires and big connectors. I also added a wire from the neg to the starter bracket.

In your case I would remove the tank and clean up all the connectors and make sure no wire is broken.

But your problem is also my problem (I have a 2001) and the source of the problem spells "SEM".

This is why it's good for us to install the best battery available and to juice it up to the gill. Riding the bike never fully charges the battery.

As Froggy said: get the YTZ7S and always repeat always keep it plugged into the Optimate charger between rides. If you are having trouble finding the charger Yamaha has them:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/apparel/apscitemdetail/3/101/all/1/2737/detail.aspx

That is REALLY cheap! I spent more than $80 for mine... :evil:

It's even cheaper here:

http://www.surdyke.com/hd/product.asp?prod=53571&cat=3

LeFrog said:

Riding the bike never fully charges the battery.

Click to expand...

If your stator is in working order, I believe riding the bike does indeed fully charge the battery. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm also thinking the YTZ7s was the OEM battery for the 2003 Husabergs.

Log
(Rick)

Then his and my stator are going.

Did not know about the OEM being the 7s on the 03, sorry.

Check and clean the connections including those going to the switch. The + side of the battery and those going to the starter. My experence would be the + side from battery to starter. They can get cruddy. Hope this helps.

If you leave the tester on, that's normal.

If you test every now and then, that's not.

Start from the Pos at the battery, through the solenoid, starter, etc...

Monkey36 said:

With the fuse out, the battery sits at 12.8 volts. Once I connect the fuse it drops to 12.6 instantly and pulls a .1 volt draw per 20minutes until dead there after.

Click to expand...

Monkey
You definitely have a leak somewhere, even if you describe it in a strange way. Put your multimeter to read current (amps), pull out the fuse and put the meter leads directly across the fuse socket terminals. You should get bugger all current flow. I suspect you will have an amp or more flowing.

Can you hear the power relay click in as soon as you connect the battery, even with the key switched off? If so, the keyswitch is not turning off properly. If the relay is dropping out as it should, there is only a couple of other places the fault could be.

Also check that the regulator body is electrically insulated from the frame if yours is one that has seperate regulator & rectifier. The usually bolt them to the plastic rear mudguard.

ok Jeff
Welcome to UHE.
There are about half a dozen of us on this site that may be able to help you with this problem.
You appear however to have a general understanding of voltage and current and therefore could be better off trying to follow a global 'Is my charging system working' guide sheet.
Here is the link:
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm

Cross reference this with 'The doc' regarding issues such as our AC charge coils supply @ 40v ac depending on the year and model.

However on the face of it, and presuming you have eliminated any poor connection faults your stator is on it's way out. For the following reasons:
1, You should not have any drain on your green ignition lead, however the bike continues to run (probably with a reduced spark)
2, You are not charging your battery suggesting one or all of your charge coils have gone. (if just one of your charge coils has gone your regulator/rectifier will not work - it needs all three ac inputs)
3, Unfortunately - often when the stator goes, it takes out one of the diodes in the rectifier thus rendering that useless also.

However. I am currently testing a very very cheap alternative to the stator problem, but will not post the results until i have fully tested and proved them. So don't chuck your old one out just yet !!

Hope this helps
Regards
Ady

Sounds to be a faulty rectifier. Quite common really.
Part number 180 123-01.

Confirm such before ordering a replacement.

Sincerely,
Dale