I have been having battery issues with my 05 fs650c. I have 12.7 volts resting it shows around 13.5v at around 4k rpm. But here is the kicker with the battery disconnected and my voltmeter between the ground lead and the ground it slowly climbs to 11v like something is charging. What the heck could be pulling that kind of juice while shut off? It has a factory wiring harness from a fs650e for lights and such but no key or shut off switch other than the kill switch. I'm at kind of a lose right now other than ripping it apart wire by wire some guidance of where to start would be great.
So you have both leads of battery disconnected yes? where is ground? do you mean the point the neg lead bolts on to the motor? and with both leads disconected you are getting 11v between batt neg and motor ground?
To check if something is draining your battery while your bike is turned off you need to test for current not volts. Do the following.
Switch your multi meter to DC AMPs. Amps is usually indicated by an “A” on the Multimeter Switch. AC is usually shown as a “~” symbol and DC shown as a “-“ symbol.
You usually have to move the Multimeter positive lead to a separate socket on the Multimeter. Sometimes there are 2 sockets, a high range and a low range. Always test on the highest setting first. For example: my high setting is 10Amp. Test on the 10Amp setting first, then if the current drawn is less than your Multimeter Low setting move to that setting and keep testing. In my example my Multimeter low setting is 0.3 Amps. Also indicated as 300mA (mA x 1000 = A).
BIG WARNING! Once the multimeter is on Amps do not connect it directly across the battery and do not hit the starter button while testing for current Amps. This will cause the internal fuse in the multimeter to blow. A multimeter set on current is a very low resistance, almost a short circuit and will draw as much current as your battery will supply till something melts.
Always plug the Multimeter leads back to volts when you have finished testing to avoid blowing the fuse next time you use your multimeter.
To test for battery drain:
Switch everything off on the bike.
Disconnect just one battery lead. For example disconnect the Positive Battery Lead.
Set your Multimeter to Amps as described above.
Connect the Positive Multimeter Lead to the Battery Positive terminal.
Make sure the Positive Lead you removed from the battery does not touch anything earthed like the Bike frame etc….
Connect the Negative Lead from the Multimeter to the Positive Lead you removed from the Battery.
You should now see current drain measured in Amps. Move to the lower Amp setting on your multimeter if the current is lower than the setting on the Multimeter Low setting.
It is best to use alligator clips to hold the Multimeter leads on the Battery and Battery Lead while doing this test.
Start to unplug the wires or fuses around your bike and see if the current reading goes to zero. This will point you in the direction of the current thief.
Picture below shows a current test. You can see the plugs on the Multimeter in the Amps part. The Multimeter is connected to the Positive on the Battery etc…
The current is 0.35Amps from the light. You can convert to Power measured in Watts by multiplying it by the Battery Voltage. Power = Volts x Amps
4.2Watts or (12Volts x 0.35Amps)
Switch your multi meter to DC AMPs. Amps is usually indicated by an “A” on the Multimeter Switch. AC is usually shown as a “~” symbol and DC shown as a “-“ symbol.
You usually have to move the Multimeter positive lead to a separate socket on the Multimeter. Sometimes there are 2 sockets, a high range and a low range. Always test on the highest setting first. For example: my high setting is 10Amp. Test on the 10Amp setting first, then if the current drawn is less than your Multimeter Low setting move to that setting and keep testing. In my example my Multimeter low setting is 0.3 Amps. Also indicated as 300mA (mA x 1000 = A).
BIG WARNING! Once the multimeter is on Amps do not connect it directly across the battery and do not hit the starter button while testing for current Amps. This will cause the internal fuse in the multimeter to blow. A multimeter set on current is a very low resistance, almost a short circuit and will draw as much current as your battery will supply till something melts.
Always plug the Multimeter leads back to volts when you have finished testing to avoid blowing the fuse next time you use your multimeter.
To test for battery drain:
Switch everything off on the bike.
Disconnect just one battery lead. For example disconnect the Positive Battery Lead.
Set your Multimeter to Amps as described above.
Connect the Positive Multimeter Lead to the Battery Positive terminal.
Make sure the Positive Lead you removed from the battery does not touch anything earthed like the Bike frame etc….
Connect the Negative Lead from the Multimeter to the Positive Lead you removed from the Battery.
You should now see current drain measured in Amps. Move to the lower Amp setting on your multimeter if the current is lower than the setting on the Multimeter Low setting.
It is best to use alligator clips to hold the Multimeter leads on the Battery and Battery Lead while doing this test.
Start to unplug the wires or fuses around your bike and see if the current reading goes to zero. This will point you in the direction of the current thief.
Picture below shows a current test. You can see the plugs on the Multimeter in the Amps part. The Multimeter is connected to the Positive on the Battery etc…
The current is 0.35Amps from the light. You can convert to Power measured in Watts by multiplying it by the Battery Voltage. Power = Volts x Amps
4.2Watts or (12Volts x 0.35Amps)
Reds said:
If you have the stock odometer on the bike, then you are reading the voltage that it takes to power the clock of the odometer, as it is hard wired to the battery. And unless I am mistaken the reason you don't see 12.7 volts, is because that is the voltage drop across the resistance or load in the ckt. So try unplugging the odometer if you have it to eliminate one source of current drop.
If you switched to amps, or in this case mili amps, you would see the draw in current that Davo is talking about.
Keep in mind that your bike uses AC voltage for lighting, very little of the stator output is used for battery charging, like 25 W worth.
The only other thing that I can think of that would cause the battery to drain is a bad regulator/rectifier, you can try unplugging that as well to see if that eliminates the draw as well. This of course overlooks the obvious of a conductor that has been chaffed and is touching ground.
Please describe what the symptoms of your problems are? How old is the battery? How long does the battery hold the 12.7 volts that you have? 12.7 is pretty good and indicates a full charge.
How
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