It doesn't appear that they are powdercoated. You can take a rag with lacquer thinner, wipe it and the color will come off. If it were powdercoated the solvent would have no effect on the paint. The factory paint seems to be a non clear coated (singe stage) enamel (type unknown) with a little fine metallic or pearl tossed into the mix.
Regular sandblasting with fine grit sand should remove the factory finish quite easily which is the normal way to prep for powdercoat. Chemical stripping should not be required. Nowadays they have clear coating available in powder coat but the mil thickness may be excessive.
Be sure to place sacrificial bolts and screws in the frames welded on nuts to keep the coating from making a mess of them. You may want to pick up some "thread chasers" to clean up the threads and a sharpe file to remove the excess material from places such as the swingarm pivot area, footpeg area etc. I would mask off the inside of the steering stem and consider not refinishing the inside of the frame backbone (air intake) as it may be hard to properly coat all the nooks and crannies which will start rusting.
If the condition of the paint is not too bad consider just sanding it with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper, feather/smooth out all the chips then take it to a Autobody shop where they can apply one coat of a non sanding expoxy
primer and two coats of a close match solid blue with a little pearl tossed in to duplicate the factory look (if that is what you are going for). A true urethane paint such as PPG Durethane may prove to be more durable, have less film/mil thickness, cost effective and provide a glossier finish.