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Are bergs cold blooded?

Joined Dec 2006
160 Posts | 0+
Los Alamos, NM
I recently picked up a 04 650.
I think that the carb was setup for 3000 feet. I live at 6500 feet.

The bike was cold blooded when I picked it up. That was an elevation of around 4500 feet.
Now It will not start. The bike has been sitting for a while. Given that I intend on cleaning and adjusting the carb. Reading the shop manual I know that the issue may be that the bike is set way to rich.

My problem is that I really don't know what to expect from these bikes.

Are bergs cold blooded. That would mean for me for the bike not to want to start in temps between 0 and 30 degrees.


Added information. I intend on setting the valves. The bike has low hours. And once rinning seems to be very strong. No oil buring. No sign of low compressison.
 
Mine have been alittle cold blooded, especially if not jetted properly. The Dellorto's can be a real pain. A properly tuned FCR should start OK off the kicker. Oil viscosity may come into play as well at those temps.
I think checking the valves will be a good starting place.
 

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when i first got mine i would finally get it started on a new plug. i then learnt to run the nuts off it and pull the plug, put a sooty one in and get it started straight away and run the nuts off that to clean it up. then again.

that way i had three clean plugs ready to rumble.

not enough detail mate. yoiu're at UHE now and we expect a modicum of grey matter from everyone. we need bike model and year, carb and settings.

no stupid question still you have read the doc and even then we'll decide upon the stupidity of them by having a rigged vote!

BTW your nik is the first one ever to get me singin'!!!!!!

"this is the dawning of the age of aquarius......!"

regards

Taffy
 
greetings sir ...

i need to see a clean air filter , on removal of the air cleaner get in there and wipe up any oil /dirt that is '' floating '' around in there .

i would remove the carb and clean all orifices , they really appreciate it when you do this .
 
mine sat for 3 weeks and its been cold 32 at night, was 35 yesterday morning and kick start failed uncharacteriscally for 3 tries then E starter spun and spun, then kick start worked. I'd say the bikes are no more cold blooded then any bike heck try starting a honda in winter after a 3 week lay off..impossible. lol
 
you're at UHE now and we expect a modicum of grey matter from everyone.

JSON, WE NEED TO PUT THIS ON A HEADER AT THE TOP OF THE HOME PAGE!!!
 
it's winter time, in the colder temps they will be a little harder to start as they are running leaner from the colder/more dense air.

I usually go up 2 on the main and one clip on the needle in cold weather on my RFS and makes starting so much better and the bike will run better. This is not unique to Husa's, any modern 4 stroke will be similar as will 2 strokes. I do the same thing on my KTM200. Need more fuel in the winter time!
 
ned37 said:
you're at UHE now and we expect a modicum of grey matter from everyone.

JSON, WE NEED TO PUT THIS ON A HEADER AT THE TOP OF THE HOME PAGE!!!

though definition of a group's cultural beliefs is important,

modicum is defined as: "A small, moderate, or token amount"

may I suggest that buying a Husaberg is modicum enough for UHE participation.
 
I removed the carb today. The jets are all at recomended factory settings. I got those numbers off the shop manual.
They are
Main jst 160
Starting jet 85
Idling jet 45 The range on this one is 38 to 45.
I set the air/fuel mix screw 0.5 turn out. This is the minum recomended.

I just finished putting it back together. I tired to fire it up, but the battery was dead. This after I put a long slow charge into it.

Next stop new battery.

So now my question is. Are you running OEM batteries or are you fitting larger aftermarket ones?

My bike is currently running the YUASA YTZ7S
 
Hair said:
I removed the carb today. The jets are all at recomended factory settings. I got those numbers off the shop manual.
They are
Main jst 160
Starting jet 85
Idling jet 45 The range on this one is 38 to 45.
I set the air/fuel mix screw 0.5 turn out. This is the minum recomended.

I just finished putting it back together. I tired to fire it up, but the battery was dead. This after I put a long slow charge into it.

Next stop new battery.

So now my question is. Are you running OEM batteries or are you fitting larger aftermarket ones?

My bike is currently running the YUASA YTZ7S

Hi Hair,

We will need to know what the needle is as well, and what clip position from the top is it on. It will be easy to check, as you don't have to pull the carb off.

I don't know about the 650 but my 04 550 uses the same battery as yours, and is stock and still working fine. Buy a battery tender and leave it on the battery while the bike is not in use, you'll get a lot more life out of your battery.

Get back to us on that needle and we'll have dialed in, in a jiffy!!
 
Thanks
It's back to work for me. So I hope to pick this up again this weekend. Mean while I will get a battery on order.
 
Got the new battery. Things are much better now. The bike starts and runs.

I put some trail time on the bike. I ran it about 5 hours. Some slow speed technical stuff. Some fast stuff. I tried to give it a good mix of fast and slow.

Based on those rides I have the following questions.

The bike seems to run warm. It was a cool day. Once on the trails the bike begin spitting coolant. The water pump was replaced before I bought it. I check the head bleed screw. It had coolant under it. So I assume that it was bleed. When I bought the bike I noticed that the coolant level was below the radiator core. I filled it. Based on that I expected to see some overflow. But not that much.

Second question is connected to the first. When the bike warmed up I could slip the clutch in technical sections while running in second. The clutch slipped more than my 525 ever did. Is it normal to get a noticeably slipping clutch on very low speed hard pulls?


Last the motor runs great. But the idle is not smooth. And it doesn't idle at the same speed each time that I back off on the throttle. Some times it will settle in a few hundred RPMs higher than idle. Then after a bike it drops down to idle.
What part of the carb do I need to focus on to fix this problem?

I have not checked the needle position yet. I'm thinking that I will work on the bike some more this weekend. My plan is to totally remove the carb and give it a once over.

Oh, I have every intention of getting a fan and oil cooler. And I will eventually get an overflow bottle.


I was asked to give a first impressions report over on Adventure rider. I put it in the regional/Rockies forum.
I very much like this bike. It handles the technical stuff much better than I was told that it would. The bike really likes the 45 to 55 mph stuff. But what impressed me the most was how it liked to track in the single track trails. The bike is a pleasure to ride. And I am totally addicted to the power. It didn’t take long for that to happen.
 
Your hanging idle is indicative on a lean condition on the idle circuit. The easy fix is to bump up the pilot jet one size. If the needle is still in the stock position, you need to lower it to the third clip from the bottom. Lean jetting contributes to the bike overheating.

You really need to jet the bike correctly before you continue to ride it.

Coolant should just cover the fins when cold. Anything else is overfilled.

The clutch should not slip at all either.

Glad you like the bike. Spend some time to jet it and it will be much better.
 
i have to disagree with john and say that the pilot screw (under the carb) is set very lean at half a turn. i think that either 1 or 1.5 more turns may be necassary to get it right.

i'd also not change the pilot jet - even if it's easier- but change the needle straight. so to help you do that we would need the needle code off it. whatever the last letter is - go down one but to help we need the full code starting OB_ _ _.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
i have to disagree with john and say that the pilot screw (under the carb) is set very lean at half a turn. i think that either 1 or 1.5 more turns may be necassary to get it right.

i'd also not change the pilot jet - even if it's easier- but change the needle straight. so to help you do that we would need the needle code off it. whatever the last letter is - go down one but to help we need the full code starting OB_ _ _.

regards

Taffy

Correct on the pilot screw. I had already told him that he was too lean his pilot screw, maybe it was on KTMtalk. He has the same post running both places. I assumed he had already adjusted it richer.
 
I am no longer posting with regards to this issue on KTMtalk. You guys are correct in assuming that I have change the air/fuel mixer screw. It is now at 2.5 turns out.
I think that I will remove the carb this weekend and make sure about the needle setting.
Then I can change the jets from the bottom if I need to.

Thanks guys. I am very greatful for your help.
 
A new week and I am back on the job.

The needle was set at 2 up from the bottom.
I moved it to 3 up.
Boejangles gave me a jetting recipe that he had got from Boss.
Also I set my valves. They were a little tight.


I moved to that setup. The bike runs great. Still not sure about cold starting. I need to get out and get some miles on the bike. I hope to do that this weekend.

Next up Fan and oil cooler.
 
Hair said:
A new week and I am back on the job.

The needle was set at 2 up from the bottom.
I moved it to 3 up.
Boejangles gave me a jetting recipe that he had got from Boss.
Also I set my valves. They were a little tight.


I moved to that setup. The bike runs great. Still not sure about cold starting. I need to get out and get some miles on the bike. I hope to do that this weekend.

Next up Fan and oil cooler.

Sounds good.
 
fwiw, my 04 450 pilot fuel screw likes 2 to 2 1/4 turns out with the stock jetting at about 4000 feet. really hard to start when its cold at anything less than 2 turns.
 

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