I Was out riding yesterday and my clutch was squeeling like a stuck pig. Been told by DCR that it is actually the bearing in the pressure/drive plate that causes it, i previously thought it was something to do with steel clutch plates. There must be a fix?
Hi philis, mine also is aflicted by the clutch squeal, which has to be heard to be beleived, and is usually heard by most others in the pit area and received with scornfull looks. When it used to bother me i would swap the plates around in the clutch basket, this will temporally stop the problem but it always comes back. Changing the oil frequently also helps but it will come back pretty quickly. i think the issue is lack of oil on the plates, if you could get oil in to the basket i think you would be on to some thing,has any one tried a different brand of clutch? i dont even know if there is one available, i know there is an italian company makes kevlar ones for mx, might be worth investigating?
regards
J
regards
J
i used to here it now n then too and on some of the engine rebuilds some of the friction and steel plates used to be very dry i just used to soak them in old oil over night then shuv em in.... but if u are goin to swap plates around some of the steel plates r thinner than the inner 1s, but thats on the 03 engine not sure on the newer 1s
re kevlar plates.... they have their own inherant problems ( must be well soaked with oil before initial use, beggs the question of there performance in an oil shy enviroment!) but the other factor I was warned about is.......
If kevlar plates last and grip better because of the harder material..... wot happens to the kevlar fibres contaminating the oil?
scissors dont last very long at all when cutting kevlar matt so its obviously hard on the steel.....
Having been mr neg. so far, I will also say that the dozen or so kevlar units I have installed over the years worked a lot better than the originals they replaced (some replaced because of wear, but others due to increasing the output of the engine resulted in clutch slip).
Thats my opin 4 wot its worth.
If kevlar plates last and grip better because of the harder material..... wot happens to the kevlar fibres contaminating the oil?
scissors dont last very long at all when cutting kevlar matt so its obviously hard on the steel.....
Having been mr neg. so far, I will also say that the dozen or so kevlar units I have installed over the years worked a lot better than the originals they replaced (some replaced because of wear, but others due to increasing the output of the engine resulted in clutch slip).
Thats my opin 4 wot its worth.
Ok so ill strip my clutch basket and give the deck a shuffle and see what happens.
I was kind of hoping that it wasn't the steel plates causing this issue as there doesn't seem to be a cheap long term fix. I was intrigued by what dave clark from dave clark racing told me and that was, in his words "the top hat bearing in the clutch pressure plate rotating in its housing" that causes this hideous squeal.
I was kind of hoping that it wasn't the steel plates causing this issue as there doesn't seem to be a cheap long term fix. I was intrigued by what dave clark from dave clark racing told me and that was, in his words "the top hat bearing in the clutch pressure plate rotating in its housing" that causes this hideous squeal.
have a look at the steels when you get them out, i would imagine you will see hotspots indecating the lack of lubrication.
Joined Jun 2004
412 Posts | 17+
australia
the answer is to drill three holes in the clutch pressure plate. Any good berg dealer should tell you where and the size. I forget, although I thought it was in the Doc. I have not done it I like the squeel, because it fires me up to stop messing around, drop a gear and let that clutch out instead of feathering it. Please post the hole sizes and location when you find them out...
fe600racer said:
Now thats exactly the stuff i want to hear :cheers:
Searched the doc and cant see anything, ill get on the blower on monday and see what i can learn.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
I put dimples in the steel plates, 3mm diameter diamond coated sphere in die grinder, 2 rows one dimple every 5mm about 0.7mm deep.
someone pointed out I could also have just drilled holes right through
shriek and judder were worse but the plates last about 60hrs instead of 15
most jap clutches have dimpled plates and a springloaded anti judder plate.
someone pointed out I could also have just drilled holes right through
shriek and judder were worse but the plates last about 60hrs instead of 15
most jap clutches have dimpled plates and a springloaded anti judder plate.
I manage to find the part that causes this squeal a few years ago on a 450 FE which made a dreadfull noise when the clutch was used in take off or normal riding.
To fix it try pulling the clutch hub out and remove the stepped washer part no 590.32.009.000
simply linish the wider back face that runs against the back of the inner hub 590.32.002.250
I used a coarse wet and dry on a flat surface.
It stopped the noise, if it only decreases the noise on the first attemp linish some more off it.
Be sure not to overtighten the clutch shaft nut it can add to the cause of the problem, also if you overtighten the clutch it can cause the clutch to drag when you select 1st gear another problem Berg owners have when you try to select neutral with the engine running.
Use the clutch lock tab washer for its purpose and dont rely on overtorqueing the nut, add some loctite as well if you want reassurance.
How we found this problem was by careful inspection of the wear pattern on the back of the stepped washer.
I did have had one KTM that generated a squeal from the pressure cap thrust bearing and washer and its the same as the Berg but this is not a problem often.
Give it a go you have nothing to lose, let me know what the result is.
ORANGEBERG
To fix it try pulling the clutch hub out and remove the stepped washer part no 590.32.009.000
simply linish the wider back face that runs against the back of the inner hub 590.32.002.250
I used a coarse wet and dry on a flat surface.
It stopped the noise, if it only decreases the noise on the first attemp linish some more off it.
Be sure not to overtighten the clutch shaft nut it can add to the cause of the problem, also if you overtighten the clutch it can cause the clutch to drag when you select 1st gear another problem Berg owners have when you try to select neutral with the engine running.
Use the clutch lock tab washer for its purpose and dont rely on overtorqueing the nut, add some loctite as well if you want reassurance.
How we found this problem was by careful inspection of the wear pattern on the back of the stepped washer.
I did have had one KTM that generated a squeal from the pressure cap thrust bearing and washer and its the same as the Berg but this is not a problem often.
Give it a go you have nothing to lose, let me know what the result is.
ORANGEBERG
ORANGEBERG said:
Sounds like you have this problem licked fella, thanks for sharing.
One question, whats "linish"
edit:
ah ha:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linishing
Linish is another word for grind but its a less aggressive form of removing metal from a metal surface. If you lay a sheet of wet and dry paper on a flat surface and rotate the part in a figure 8 motion, use water on the paper as a lubricant and cooling method.
ORANGEBERG
ORANGEBERG
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