I own a 2010 fe450 and just bought a used low hr 2011 fx450. The fx is much harder to put into neutral than my fe. Sooo i plan to bleed the clutch than i notice it has a 9.0 magura master cylinder instead of the 9.5. I Have only rode the fx up and down the street and besides being hard to get into neutral i didnot notice any thing odd. Is it ok to leave the 9.0 in place? To be honest i have little knowledge on the inner workings of a hyd clutch and didnot know if the piston size would be an issue? the clutch pull is about the same as my fe-maybe a hair harder,but not much. The Magura master cylinder that is on the fx has a lever that has a red adjuster on it. It looks differant from the lever that comes stock and does not pivot out like the stock clutch lever. Can i reuse a stock lever on these? Thanks for all the help.
Anyone able to help with a hyd clutch question?
- Thread starter walker1008
- Start date
I never noticed the marking on the master, thanks for pointing that out.
The neutral is impossible to find on my 570.
The 9.0 would move less fluid than the 9.5, but yield a slightly easier pull. That is a very small change, but maybe that is enough of a difference.
I want very much to fix the neutral issue.
The neutral is impossible to find on my 570.
The 9.0 would move less fluid than the 9.5, but yield a slightly easier pull. That is a very small change, but maybe that is enough of a difference.
I want very much to fix the neutral issue.
Rensho said:
For any given amount of master cylinder piston travel, the 9.00mm bore will move approx. 10% less clutch fluid than the 9.50mm bore. I had this issue when I snapped the m/cylinder on my 390.
what particular issue did you encounter possu ?
rensho did the 9.5 fix the issue?
out of interest the ktm 450 sxf has a 10.5 piston in the same style as the bergs clutch, considering that on my fe450 to help with creeping with the clutch in if a full clutch plate inspection doesnt reveal anything out of spec or out of true
rensho did the 9.5 fix the issue?
out of interest the ktm 450 sxf has a 10.5 piston in the same style as the bergs clutch, considering that on my fe450 to help with creeping with the clutch in if a full clutch plate inspection doesnt reveal anything out of spec or out of true
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
the reason they don't fit a bigger M/C is because the travel would be so great that to you the clutch would seem snatchy, to seem "on or off".
As Ken says, it'll be warped plates. Husaferg had the entire bearing and shoulder wear away.
regards
Taffy
As Ken says, it'll be warped plates. Husaferg had the entire bearing and shoulder wear away.
regards
Taffy
berger said:
I'll dig in and take a look. The bike did this from, new to me day one, at 1300 miles.
well my clutch is out at the moment friction plates are hardly worn and the steels are flat and also in spec though they are heat discoloured so i'll replace them whilst the bike is open, i'll double check the basket but nothing obvious
Did you notice if all the discs were wet with oil, or were the ones in the center drier?frostyuk said:
On my Yahama WR250, the basket design had inadequate flow to the center discs adversely affecting wear, grabbiness and finding neutral. Some swapped out for a Hinson basket, or drilled more holes in theirs.
the chap whose doing the clutch for me said all were wet, also virtually no wear on clutch basket, he did say the oil was nasty, only 15hrs since the last service and i dont ride that hard, the creep was there after the service. will let you know results after the new steels and oil are in
no idea this time round was done at the dealers, previously was putoline 10/60, rock oil 10/50 is going in this time
sad to say new steels and rock oil xrp 10w50 hasnt improved things noticeably. Going to go try playing with different oils starting with the motorex 10w50
Pulled mine apart today, 3600mi, and everything look very new. There is one steel that is discolored/blue, slightly, but is flat against a glass plate. Clutch plates look new and the basket fingers do not have a mark on them.
The steels have hundreds of dimples in them, to hold oil. That is likely not helping. The entire clutch is plenty well oiled, so it is not a dry plate issue.
I tried the 79 cent yamaha washer trick, but it didn't seem to make enough of a difference, so I pulled them out.
I did realize that my lever adjustment perhaps didn't allow for full clutch movement. I had the lever adjusted so that it is a little closer to the grip. I went the other way for max piston travel and I think finding neutral is not impossible.
Would love to get some thinner steels in there to see if the problem is the pack is just too tight.
The steels have hundreds of dimples in them, to hold oil. That is likely not helping. The entire clutch is plenty well oiled, so it is not a dry plate issue.
I tried the 79 cent yamaha washer trick, but it didn't seem to make enough of a difference, so I pulled them out.
I did realize that my lever adjustment perhaps didn't allow for full clutch movement. I had the lever adjusted so that it is a little closer to the grip. I went the other way for max piston travel and I think finding neutral is not impossible.
Would love to get some thinner steels in there to see if the problem is the pack is just too tight.
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