Another Valv question...

Norwegian · Nov 27, 2006

Hello there!
I am a new guy here, from Norway, so excuse my bad English..
But back to topic,
Im about to adjust my valves..
But i only got a seeker thats 0.10mm and 0.15mm. And the stores around here doesn't have any smaller.
The gap should be 0.12 i read.

But i saw that many people just screwed the screw in, and 1/8back, and some people said 1/6...
But im not so sure.
For the first, I don't really know that i have it at TDC.
I can feel that the Valves are "loose". Is it only at TDC you can notice that?
Is it some marks at the flywheel? I cant See nothing.
I don't think it is some marks either, but maybe? Se my pic!
And what do you use? Do you use the kick? Ore screw direct on flywheel?

And how much do you turn back, cause i Turned 1/8 (I meant that was 1/8 )
And i didn't get the seeker with 0.10mm under... ??? :?:
Se my pics, and hope you understand my questions. Im not so good in English, and not better in technical english

BTW, its a 2004 Husaberg Fs650 (Eur)

LeFrog · Nov 27, 2006

Your English is better than our Norwegian.

The tappets have to be adjusted "pretty darn close" but not close so as to touch the top of the valves. If you back out 1/6th of a turn after the initial point of resistance (that means before you start pushing on the spring), you should be able to insert the feeler gauge (or "seeker") right between the top of the spring and the dangling thingy. That's about 10mm under the top of the adjustment screw.

Norwegian · Nov 27, 2006

Re: RE: Another Valv question...

LeFrog said:
Your English is better than our Norwegian.

The tappets have to be adjusted "pretty darn close" but not close so as to touch the top of the valves. If you back out 1/6th of a turn after the initial point of resistance (that means before you start pushing on the spring), you should be able to insert the feeler gauge (or "seeker") right between the top of the spring and the dangling thingy. That's about 10mm under the top of the adjustment screw.

I screw until i feel resistance. Then 1/6 back out? Then its ok?
Cause its easier for me to see 1/6th cause the nut is a sixxer.
And i only got a feeler gauge (Yeah,learned a new word) thats 0.10mm. So if i can insert that, and if i cant insert 0.15mm then it should be okey? RIght?
Im worried about trash the engine.

And the pic, there where i texted 0.12mm. Thats right place to insert feeler gauge?
If you understood the picture.

LeFrog · Nov 27, 2006

RE: Re: RE: Another Valv question...

Yes it is where you insert the feeler gauge. Don't spend too much time on this. 1/6th is good as it is. Close inspection covers. Go ride.

JoeUSA · Nov 27, 2006

Welcome Norwegian,

I recommend you read through the Owners Doc! on the sections covering valve adjustment. This should inform you how to find top dead center of the piston on the compression stroke and how to adjust your valves.

You can download Owners Doc! for free on this web site. On the left side of the screen the main menu box has the Owners Doc!

Get back with us after you have read the valve adjusting information and discuss any questions you may still have. It is very important to adjust them correctly and to properly torque the valve adjustment screw locking nuts when making the adjustments.

Unfortunately the Husaberg Factory Documentation no longer furnishes valve adjust information other than the specifications.

Here is the page from the 2001 Owners Manual. If you do not already have Adobe Reader on your computer, you can get it free at www.adobe.com. Y0ou will need it to read the adobe (pdf) files.

Regards,

Joe

Dr_C · Dec 25, 2006

The adjustment bolt is an M6x0,8mm. So 1/6 turn will give you 0,13mm play and 1/8 turn 0,10mm play. Not that it matters so much, but still. If you end up with a free play of 0,2-0,4mm, or greater, there will be a noticeable negative effect on both wear and power.

CelticDude · Dec 25, 2006

Dr_C said:
The adjustment bolt is an M6x0,8mm. So 1/6 turn will give you 0,13mm play and 1/8 turn 0,10mm play. Not that it matters so much, but still. If you end up with a free play of 0,2-0,4mm, or greater, there will be a noticeable negative effect on both wear and power.

Dr C has the most awesome Husaberg roadracer ever. 8O Plus the fact that he made his own cylinder head puts him well above most of us mere mortals.

I just did my valves today. I like to adjust them at 1/8 turn simply because it is easier and probably more accurate to turn the adjuster all the way closed and then 1/4 out then divide the distance by 1/2 to arrive at 1/8 turn.

Dr_C · Dec 26, 2006

CelticDude said:
Dr C has the most awesome Husaberg roadracer ever. 8O Plus the fact that he made his own cylinder head puts him well above most of us mere mortals.

Oh, gosh!

Thanks, for the kind words, but it only really means that I have made more mistakes than the average Husaberg-fan.

OK, I may be more stubborn than most...

/Dr_C

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