All About Valve Springs! (with nice pics)

hacker33 · Mar 13, 2015

Blamir said:
So do you exprience valve floating on high revs?

I don't know anything about the valve floating because I can not see them when I ride

I don't have tachometer so I don't know how high the motor revs right now.
I like to ride at high rpm's and did not notice anything wrong.

bushmechanic · Mar 13, 2015

Just to clarify;

nobody has anything to worry about with any of the dual springs available if they are installed in a stock head 04 up with stock valves

they all have adequate seated force (more than 60lbs) to prevent valve issues

the Kibblewhites want 7mm preload or a tad more (0.1 -0.2mm) for 75 to 80 lbs seated. installed height as per instructions (attached) is 1.170"-1.180"

if you require more than 10500rpm and suffer internet induced anxiety just use the additional spacer under the main thick Kibblewhite lower spacer, its OD locates in the head recess and the thick spacer locates itself on the valve guide, (see PDF instructions below) the KW springs with the added preload will still take less power to run than the others

the lowest force you will get out of Taffys in the same head is 76lbs with a 0.1mm shim (bad idea)

the ATV set is 80lbs seated

the oem conicals are 72lbs seated

In case its still isn't clear they are all about the same seated and are all perfectly adequate for the job except for the oem single springs which often break near 200hrs

the difference is in power required to run them (kibblewhites win) and pricing is the main difference between the other 2 dual sets

Item # 96-96000, Lightweight Racing Valve Spring Kits for KTM® All RFS Engines 450cc-525cc 2008-2009 On Kibblewhite Precision Machining

cheapest usually on ebay search for kibblewhite 9696000 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=kibblewhite+9696000&_sop=15

tourist · Mar 13, 2015

Thanks!

A minor followup question: Is there any drawback to the 7mm preload? I don't expect it to be but good to have it confirmed

Dr_C · Mar 13, 2015

I do not have so much free time on my hands that I can keep up with all threads, or even being able to contribute when I feel it concerns a field in which I have made lots of mistakes (so called experience). So when I finally stumbled over the interesting subject of valve springs, I had to read it! The subject of mechanical springs is very wide and somewhat complex. This thread only partially concerns the theory behind the design, measured physical specs and proven results. Harsh words and humiliations took however this promising thread to a level unworthy of UHE. So I just wanted say I'm a little sad over this, and I hope professionalism and a humble tone will return to the forum. [emoji17]

I have used both OEM springs and special PAC-springs.

Yours Dr_C, allways on the technical barricades, eager to learn more!

tourist · Mar 13, 2015

Thank you. I will take this to heed.

tourist · Mar 14, 2015

Hey a question - what is the field of engineering theory called that valve springs fit under? And can anyone recommend some reading material? Academic stuff from engineering welcome if you have it!

Probably there's something on valve springs in Tuning for Speed and other stuff that's been recomended before - will probably appreciate / get it better now

(While it can be tricky to read general material from an academic discipline that one is lacking a background in, it's good to try to dig into the maths/theory/ideas of a field that is already on the mind amd being puzzled over)

Dr_C · Mar 15, 2015

Here is one source:

http://www.amesweb.info/MechanicalSprings/MechanicalSpringCalculators.aspx

For more in depth discussions, specifically concerning the application we are interested in, you may find some useful threads on the topic in the forum "SpeedTalk".

Blamir · Mar 15, 2015

There is a dual spring kit on 2005 spare catalog. It is about 155euro. Anyone has info about this?

hacker33 · Mar 15, 2015

Blamir said:
There is a dual spring kit on 2005 spare catalog. It is about 155euro. Anyone has info about this?

read the first page of this topic

Blamir · Mar 15, 2015

Thanks. Those are only in 2005 spare list not 2004 or 2006

Just want to share.

hacker33 · Mar 15, 2015

Because only 2005 FC model had a titanium valves.

Duc851 · Dec 14, 2016

You were talking about the 650cc Engine all the time. What about the ´2000 600cc engine. Are Taffy´s or KW´s kits also a straight fit?

bushmechanic · Dec 14, 2016

KW are smaller outside diameter and shorter than all the others so generally dont require any work to the head or valve cover to be fitted as per the maufacturers specs to any of the husaberg engines.

the other sets are bigger OD and longer

Damo W · Dec 15, 2016

bushmechanic said:
KW are smaller outside diameter and shorter than all the others so generally dont require any work to the head or valve cover to be fitted as per the maufacturers specs to any of the husaberg engines.

the other sets are bigger OD and longer

Absolutely, I was thinking I'd have to relieve a bit of head material to fit my Kibblewhites but they went straight in no mods at all. The only hold up was admiring those titanium retainers! Very happy with them and personally wouldn't bother running anything else.

Damo

Duc851 · Feb 22, 2017

Meanwhile I received the KW springs. I´ll have time next week to do the job and change the valve springs. Which special tools do I need (except for valve clearance needed)? Do I need a spring press? Do I have to take off the head or can I leave it installed?

plumbbob · Feb 22, 2017

You'll need the head off and as you say a spring press.

Damo W · Feb 22, 2017

If you have access to an air compressor, after removing the spark plug, you can use a fitting to connect the air hose to the plug hole and hold the valves in place. That way the head stays on. Will need a special lever or proper valve spring compressor to be able to remove the collets though.

If the head is off, I just used a crude method of a large g clamp with a piece of tube and a window cut out of it. I reckon I would've even impressed bushy with this method....

Or you can be professional like and just use said valve spring tool.

Once the collets are back in, tap the top of the valve with a copper hammer or similar to double check everything has seated nicely.

(Sorry plumbbob, not trying to undermine you mate)

Good luck

Damo

plumbbob · Feb 22, 2017

No worries Damo, the compressed air in the compression chamber sounds like a time saver.
Just don't drop a valve collet down by the cam chain Duc851

Damo W · Feb 22, 2017

plumbbob said:
No worries Damo, the compressed air in the compression chamber sounds like a time saver.
Just don't drop a valve collet down by the cam chain Duc851

Haha indeed, unless you like using profanities!

Because you know it won't just gently fall to the bottom of the cover. It will have to get stuck somewhere inaccessible halfway down right!

Damo

Duc851 · Feb 23, 2017

I like the Idea of the compressor. Great! I quickly calculated with an estimated valve diameter of 30mm and 8 bar pressure that there will be 57.6kg force on the valve to hold it in place.
I won´t let a valve collet drop... hopefully

I´m currently in front of my computer and the husa is far away. Just to confirm: The spark plug thread is 10x1, right? So I can order the hose. Compressor is available. Aside from tools, are there more things to prepare / buy? Sealing mass, Spare seals, etc.

Sorry for the questions. I´ll do the work in my flat and there is no room for the husa for a long time, so I want to be prepared. Ant it´s my first time working on a Husaberg.

All About Valve Springs! (with nice pics)

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