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98FE600 Carb Swap

D

Dingo007

Joined Apr 2013
5 Posts | 0+
Colorado
Hi All,
I'm a new to Husaberg rider. Recently purchased a 98 FE600. I grew up riding dirt bikes in NSW Australia, but have been more in to street & dual sport bikes for the last 15 years. I finally came to the inevitable conclusion that there really isn't a dual sport bike that "does it all". :oops: Dual sport to me means compromise on all levels. As such I retired my 06 Triumph Tiger to easier riding duties and am know looking to the FE600 to fulfill my mountain pass/single track duties.
That said, i'm massively impressed with the FE600's power and nimble feel, even for a 98. ( i realize that hard core racers are rolling their eye's right now, but I'm a 40 yo 220lbs (100kg) rider used to throwing XR & DR 650's around fire trails etc). So, to the point, riding the FE on technical lower speed trails is no problem. All the power and response i need. However, running on higher speed desert trails it seems to be choking. Full throttle it reaches around 80mph and start to cough and splutter and feels like it is starving for fuel. After spending many hours reading the 22 pages of the "Fuel" forum i'm honestly bamboozled. Like my new (to me) bike, alot of the info seems to be dated. I would like to change the carb out for a keihen FCR40. I see them on ebay from 2004-2007 Honda CRf250r's for around $150us. I have a very good mechanic locally to help me out with final tuning, but I cant seem to come to a confident decision on what to buy.
Any help with this is greatly appreciated.
 
welcome to the site :cheers:

i am really happy with my mikuni tm40 pumper, although it does require a different carb/intake boot from sudco and also needs a dual throttle cable setup or a return spring......i am sure the kehins are going to require dual cables etc. to make work too, if you go with the mikuni ill be glad to let you know my jetting specs to help you get close with it.....

what carb do you have? i had the dellorto phm40 originally and it wouldnt sputter at high speeds, maybe there is something up with your existing carb causing the issue?
 
a 15 yr old dellorto probably has seen better days. my 98 600 with stock jetting (in 98) ran hardest from low midrange to top, it was the bottom that needed help. to keep the 'orto, you should at least refresh the needle and nj. slide and body wear are probably also an issue.
i had a 650 with a mk1 41mm fcr and it was a very good setup for overall power after all the mods. replaced it with a dellorto when i sold it and noticed a significant reduction in power. the dual cable thing is a myth. all you need is the pull cable, but if you're buying a used one, a lot of them come with throttle and cables.
and i agree with you about a tiger being a good dual sport. that's what i built the 650 for... to keep me from riding my tiger too far offroad.
 
ned37 said:
a 15 yr old dellorto probably has seen better days. my 98 600 with stock jetting (in 98) ran hardest from low midrange to top, it was the bottom that needed help. to keep the 'orto, you should at least refresh the needle and nj. slide and body wear are probably also an issue.
i had a 650 with a mk1 41mm fcr and it was a very good setup for overall power after all the mods. replaced it with a dellorto when i sold it and noticed a significant reduction in power. the dual cable thing is a myth. all you need is the pull cable, but if you're buying a used one, a lot of them come with throttle and cables.
and i agree with you about a tiger being a good dual sport. that's what i built the 650 for... to keep me from riding my tiger too far offroad.
Click to expand...

Ned, Can you tell me what the stock jetting for the Dell Orto is?
 


this is taken from the 1999 shop manual.

On my 1997 fe600 the stock dellorto specs were

195 main
dr270 tube jet
k51 needle on middle clip
45 start jet
45 pilot jet

i read of people going as low as 33 on the pilot and 40 on the start jet and some to the dr268 tube jet.not sure what the high altitude guys run for a main, it doesnt seem they need a hugh amount of adjustments but maybe some idle screw adjustment and get somewhere in that slightly leaner range that works and it should be close enough in the high altitude


I think the pumper carb would make a noticable power differece wether it be kehin or mikuni or the like. if i did it again i would buy an exhaust system and a pumper carb asap and wake that old girl up :twisted:

also highly recomended for switching to an unknown carb on an unkonwn bike is a A/F ratio guage with a wideband o2 sensor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-Wideband-UE ... 9f&vxp=mtr

I know i am not Ned or anything but i hope that helps anyway......... :bounce3:
 
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Thanks for Bergini & Ned, sorry for the slow repsonse...work keeps getting in the way of my riding :angry: I'm pretty sold on the idea of changing the carb out for a FCR. I live at 7000ft and 10 min ride from here gets me to 12000ft. I'm told the dellorto is a pain in the *** with extreme altitude changes. Anyway, my mechanic is telling me that smaller is better i.e.37-38mm as opposed to the most recommended 40-41mm range. Something to do with thinner air at altitude and high velocity through the smaller carb. So my question is;

Will something like this work;
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-Suzuki...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5aebdd0a95&vxp=mtr

Can i jet this up enough for a 600?

I'm off to ride in Lake City this weekend.
Ride on.
 
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I have heard similar things reguarding throttle response and veolocity increase with a smaller carb, personally i wouldnt go smalller than a 38mm, theres a lot of cases where guys thought the 501 with a 38mm was quicker to respond than the 600 with the phm40. (also i still recomend a pumper carb, not sure if the one in the photo is or not)I also thought i remember something about it not being the best idea to put a two stroke carb on a four stroke----------->could be totally wrong on that one i have never done it and not even sure if i heard that one right or not but maybe you should research that first just to be sure. also you could find out the carb model number then find out where they sell parts for it and what size jets come stock in the carb and then you can probably find a "jet graph" with all the jets listed for that carb so you know if they will go high enough or at least what kind of range is vailable.

i can say with certanty you will be in uncharted waters reguardless of what carb you go with unless ints keihin fcr41 or mikini tm40, not saying that it isnt possible by any means, just that you will be without help from us here. I would totally get and a/f guage too. ill have one for sale for 110.00 including shipping in probably a week or so ill be done with it. if your interested pm me or else you will find it on ebay. good luck
 
as far as what size to use on a 600, i would go as big as possible. it would be easier to optimize your top end power. the fun of a 600 is grabbing big handfuls fro midrange.
i put a 37mm fcr on my 400 and am quite happy with it.
the reason a 38mm 501 had quick response (mostly too quick) was the slide cutaway not being high enough.
 
ned37 said:
as far as what size to use on a 600, i would go as big as possible. it would be easier to optimize your top end power. the fun of a 600 is grabbing big handfuls fro midrange.
i put a 37mm fcr on my 400 and am quite happy with it.
the reason a 38mm 501 had quick response (mostly too quick) was the slide cutaway not being high enough.
Click to expand...


I agree, with a 600 i would also go big or go home in case i didnt say it like that already, the advantage of the faster response can be made up for by getting a pumper carb :D then you can still have the larger opening for top end power too like ned said!!!
 
Thanks for the replies. I'm no carby expert to be sure, but I have been around them long enough to get the basics. I actually have put a 2 stroke carb on a 4 stroke...it was a '76 z400 cafe racer project i was working on....took the twin carb set up and junked it, replaced it with a custom 2-1 manifold and a CR flat slide 2 stroke carb off a Honda 250. Worked great...I seem to remember that in higher hp 4 strokes the lack of emulsion tube in a 2 stroke carby is an issue (or maybe it was the other way around)
Anyway, i digress...so I was riding the berg at altitude yesterday (11,300') on a pretty simple jeep trail. (low end to mid range stuff) and it never missed a beat. It does sound a little "weazy", but i assume that is a function of no real air box and lots of filtration. But response was quick and had all the power i would ever need. I'm the 3rd owner of this bike that has always lived here in the mountains. So I assume that one of the POs must have had some carb tuning done for it to run that well at altitude.
So, i think i'm going to be a politician and flip-flop :D I'm going to try and at least inspect the condition of the Deloroto this weekend. I'm starting to understand/think that figuring out my top end prob's might be easier than a carby swap...especially for the number of times i'll ever use the top end here in the mountains. :idea:
Bergini...i'll take that AF device off your hands. PM Sent
Thanks again Ned & Bergini
 
interesting article huscan,

At what throttle opening do you have the accelerator pump set to spray and when to stop pumping? i beleive that i have to set my mikuni tm-40-6 to start a little later but am almost out of room on a original screw too........
 
Hey Dingo

just spruce up the carb and ride it. make sure the tappet clearances are set at the 'sixth of a turn' and also that the ignition timing is as follows

the white line that you can see through the hole in the cover is about 1mm to the left of centre.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUSABERG-DELL ... 3cd17d6680

at the altitude you're riding at I would suggest a couple of smaller MJs as well and then a little experimenting. the easy thing about altitude riding is that you are testing the bike's jetting without changing it just by going up and down. testing is very easy although a compromise is always a balancing act.

regards

Taffy
 
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Bergini:

This is what I did to my fcr carb with the bolt and spring.
http://www.thumperfaq.com/ap_mods.htm

I did not spend a lot of time adjusting the bolt that I put in to limit the squirt. I just "guessed" and it worked.
I later tried adjusting it in an out and went back to where i had guessed.
that plus soldering the leak jet closed is all I did, every other setting is stock.
 
Hi all, thanks for the informative replies. I picked this up on fleabay the other day;

FCR41

2013-07-04_06-49-56_562_zps2c0a94cc.jpg


2013-07-04_06-49-46_899_zps97950e61.jpg


2013-07-04_06-49-17_63_zps91f87eea.jpg


2013-07-04_06-49-29_898_zps94f74a57.jpg


I also attained an AF meter from a kindly husamember (thanks bergini). The plan is to follow the wealth of information i've learned from this site;

- Strip & Clean the Carb
- Purchase Taff's FCR Kit
- Adjust/Limit the AP
- Heat wrap the headers
- Tune & ride baby! :cheers:

It looks as simple as that hey? Did I miss anything obvious?

Also, a quick question....in the last photo, there is a button that is marked choke, and then a cable that goes to the bars directly above the choke location. I assume that is is the hot start? from other carbs I've looked at, it seems they are arse about face. Shouldn't the choke be on the bars and the hot start down low?
 
the only thing i could think you maybe would be forgettting would be fitting of the carb to the bike.....for the mikuni to fit mine i had to get a shorter intake rubber from sudco that bolted to the engine, this way it would still fit into the elbow on the back side of the carb that goes to the frame.....not sure what needs to be done to the fcr maybe nothing?? if needed you maybe could just cut down the front one?
 

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