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97 FE600 no spark!

Joined Nov 2008
13 Posts | 0+
New Zealand
been trying to kick start but there doesn't seem to be any spark or if there's one is must be really weak. I started at the Stator first and working my way back. I've tarwled through the forums and the Owner's doc to glean as much info as I can but still have some questions as it's my first Husaberg.

At first I was thinking STATOR but tested and came up withe the following numbers:

Black to Red = 1683 Ohms (ideal is 1750 Ohms +/- 10%)
Black to Green = 23 Ohms (spot on)

Unsure of the best way to test the CDI/ Coil. I've tried kicking the motor over with the plug out and grounded but still nothing.

I've seen a thread somewhere awhile ago that said to unscrew the plug resister cap and spin the motor holding the end of the HT about 10mm from the barrel ...and a bright blue spark should jump (if the CDI/Coil was healthy). Haven't tried that yet for fear that would stuff the CDI/Coil. Is this a safe way to test the CDI? And what's the deal with disconnecting the orange kill switch wire first?

Fuel and valves OK. Had the bike running about 3 weeks ago only once after I bought it but absolutely no life in it now. Strange, because when I bought it the bike started quite easily. Got it home and it started the next morning pretty easily again-now nothing.

Any help appreciated

Thanks
-Karl
 
Moki said:
been trying to kick start but there doesn't seem to be any spark or if there's one is must be really weak. I started at the Stator first and working my way back. I've tarwled through the forums and the Owner's doc to glean as much info as I can but still have some questions as it's my first Husaberg.

At first I was thinking STATOR but tested and came up withe the following numbers:

Black to Red = 1683 Ohms (ideal is 1750 Ohms +/- 10%)
Black to Green = 23 Ohms (spot on)

Unsure of the best way to test the CDI/ Coil. I've tried kicking the motor over with the plug out and grounded but still nothing.

I've seen a thread somewhere awhile ago that said to unscrew the plug resister cap and spin the motor holding the end of the HT about 10mm from the barrel ...and a bright blue spark should jump (if the CDI/Coil was healthy). Haven't tried that yet for fear that would stuff the CDI/Coil. Is this a safe way to test the CDI? And what's the deal with disconnecting the orange kill switch wire first?

Fuel and valves OK. Had the bike running about 3 weeks ago only once after I bought it but absolutely no life in it now. Strange, because when I bought it the bike started quite easily. Got it home and it started the next morning pretty easily again-now nothing.

Any help appreciated

Thanks
-Karl

Hi Karl,

This is a strange one and it crops up a few times a year where people put a running bike back in the garage only to find the next time they bring it out no spark.
Culprit moisture, once it's in it just festers and fatigues the insulation.
Just because you are getting a good resistance doesn't mean it's good when under load conditions ie connected to the cdi, it's quite possible you have shorted turns on the source output coils which in turn is producing only a small voltage to feed the cdi.
Yes it is ok to put the ht lead 10mm from the head you wont destroy your cdi, my test cdi's which I have had for years have run ignitions with gaps of 15mm or more running at 10000 rpm with no harm to the cdi.
The orange lead is the kill switch wire, some time the kill switch can become shorted and giving you a no spark situation just disconnect it and try again.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: 97 FE600 no spark!

******* here had the kill switch on....

Fires first kick!
:hang:
 
i have had the situation where the switchgear hads rolled around the bars and the red button was pressing hard against the clutch housing. how long did it take me to spot that!!!!

regards

Taffy
 
question for sparks i think here, is it possible to break the cdi by kicking with the HT nowhere near the head? if not then how could the CDI be ruined? just trying to rule out mine as the cause of my no spark. do you test these?
 
bergiebearlike said:
question for sparks i think here, is it possible to break the cdi by kicking with the HT nowhere near the head? if not then how could the CDI be ruined? just trying to rule out mine as the cause of my no spark. do you test these?

Hi Bergie,

I would probably have to say yes if you have been kicking it for a long duration, because the transformed voltage has got to go some where, this ususally ends up going to ground through the electronics of the cdi.
But there again there has been a couple of times where I have not connected the ht lead on my test coil to the test rig but the rpm never got above 200 rpm before I noticed this and it has done it no harm.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Hi Guys,
I am new to this forum, and yes i have the same problem with the stator in my FC600. I have been cruising the web looking for an alternative fix for this problem and it seems that Sparks is the man. what sort of $$$ am i looking at to get one rewound , i am in Oz and i have not found anyone to repair these stators here as yet..

Cheers and Beers
Ricksta
 
There are a couple of rewinders here in Oz, Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong comes to mind. They did one for my FE501, It had to be returned initially as they stuffed the lighting coils in fixing the ignition coils and it only lasted about 20 hrs. The bike's performance also seemed to be a bit flat, but I was also riding my 650 at the time so didn't think too much about it. Got a sparks one after it failed and it starts easier than ever and the performance was back. Whatever it costs, it is the best solution.

Steve
 
******* here had the kill switch on....
very easy to do on the early e models since it is a switch. my '98 suffered from "no spark" on occasion. i also have the same problem with my '02 hi/lo switch remembering which is which (label uncovered)
 
i just tested my ohm readings and found the results to be..... red to black- 1.739 kohm and green to black 23.7. perfect for a pre 99 engine but not so for a 2000? is this the problem?
 
My 97 FE600 shows 1683 and 23 Ohms, respectively. Now that I've figgered out the kill switch thingy she runs brutally well!

Apparently +/- 10% range is okay but windings still may be shorted in a way that results in a weak spark. Maybe someone like Sparks may be able to explain further?
 
bergiebearlike said:
i just tested my ohm readings and found the results to be..... red to black- 1.739 kohm and green to black 23.7. perfect for a pre 99 engine but not so for a 2000? is this the problem?

Hi Bergie,

This is definitely your problem, just give me a shout if you want me to rework it. I can rewind the early type stator to the later type spec. And fit the timing mark on the back of the stator.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Moki said:
My 97 FE600 shows 1683 and 23 Ohms, respectively. Now that I've figgered out the kill switch thingy she runs brutally well!

Apparently +/- 10% range is okay but windings still may be shorted in a way that results in a weak spark. Maybe someone like Sparks may be able to explain further?

Nice to here your problem was a quick fix, I once had a similar problem, came out from college one day (many years ago) looking forward to riding my new Honda TL125 home.
I kicked that thing for over 5 minutes to find that some body walking past must have twisted the kill switch, embarrassed to say the least.

The base reading of any coil is taken at 20 degrees C or 68 F. But if you are in a climate that is warmer than this then the reading will be higher, same if you are in a colder climate the reading will be lower. Hence the + - 10%.
But if you were 10% down at 20C then I would say this could be the start of a problem.

Regards

Sparks.
 
I kicked that thing for over 5 minutes to find that some body walking past must have twisted the kill switch, embarrassed to say the least
try doing that infront of a rugby team who are pissing thmselves.....!

i'm tellin ya i was traumatised after that experience.

regards

Taffy
 
sparks said:
bergiebearlike said:
i just tested my ohm readings and found the results to be..... red to black- 1.739 kohm and green to black 23.7. perfect for a pre 99 engine but not so for a 2000? is this the problem?

Hi Bergie,

This is definitely your problem, just give me a shout if you want me to rework it. I can rewind the early type stator to the later type spec. And fit the timing mark on the back of the stator.

Regards

Sparks.

ok cheers, i will no doubt be in touch! do you think my cdi will be ok or will the wrong stator of damaged it?
 

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