70deg motor mods

There is a 610 Big Bore Kit available:
http://thumperracing.net
US$850

70 Degree Racing Subframe Fuel Tank might be handy too:
www.70degreeracing.com

I would forget big bore kits. Usually too much strain for bottom end.

How about Bergos 44mm throttle body, Bergos camshaft, 13.5:1 comp piston, dna air filter with seat mod. I think your 570 would be pretty lively with those mods included what you already have. 8O

http://shop.bergos.de/index.php?cat=c75_Tuning.html

lyon90 said:

hey guys im pretty new here but just wondering if there is any perfomance mods for the new 70deg engines out yet? im thinking about racing the finke next year and want some more power out of my 570. I already have the Akro pipe and adjustable mapping, and port plished the head

thanks

Click to expand...

FWIW..........Seems like you have done a couple of things to increase the flow through the motor. Have you given any thought to trimming the flange on the radiator shrouds where they seal against the seat to allow air to flow in that way?

DaleEO said:

FWIW..........Seems like you have done a couple of things to increase the flow through the motor. Have you given any thought to trimming the flange on the radiator shrouds where they seal against the seat to allow air to flow in that way?

Click to expand...

Or, cutting a big hole through the top of the seat into the intake?

I experimented with that and my seat of the pants dyno indicated a noticeable increase in power.

lyon90 said:

and make it more susepatble to filling up with water during crossings....

Click to expand...

Not a problem for me. Only street SM riding.

The other thing I had thought about doing was just to drill a series of small holes all along the flange, thus allowing more air flow,but, helping to keep larger debris out. And, to keep water from just gushing in.

I have seen the factory WORCS series bikes with the flange completely trimmed away, and notched down even further towards to the top.

Dale

I ordered my DNA air filter from Bergos and asked few tips and questions how to build reliable motor.

First and most essential mod is filter and radiator shroud cutting, along with slip-on.
For 10-13hp more after that, they recommended 44mm throttle body, 13.5:1 piston, doma silencer /w bergos header. That is all with standard fuel mapping!

lyon90 said:

and make it more susepatble to filling up with water during crossings....

Click to expand...

I hear that a lot.

Tell me which is more likely in a water crossing:

a) When someone modifies the tank/airbox flange interface to let more air in, water entering through that interface which is significantly lower than the top of the seat and has nothing to prevent the water from entering?

b) Water entering via the large hole in the top of the seat which you put mesh over and a foam filter element into?

Personally, I leave the stock seat on the bike with an unmodified flange when riding on on dirt trails and when riding on pavement (in SM mode with SM wheels) or in the snow (with the snowbike kit) I will have the seat with the hole in it to give me more power.

In my opinion and use, I have more power than I will ever need when trail riding, but once on pavement I could easily use twice as much HP and from what I hear the same is true when riding in the snow. Neither the street nor the snow seem to present a risk of water getting through the hole in the seat.

The seat takes less than a minute to swap out, a spare take off seat from my dealer cost me $50 and I am going to have a seat make re-upholster it to be more street oriented and to have the mesh over the hole.

DaleEO said:

The other thing I had thought about doing was just to drill a series of small holes all along the flange, thus allowing more air flow,but, helping to keep larger debris out. And, to keep water from just gushing in.

Dale

Click to expand...

I have done this and it works well, noticable difference, it is easy to tell how much air it sucks through those holes because you will see the dirt on the filter right by every hole

Bigblue said:

DaleEO said:

The other thing I had thought about doing was just to drill a series of small holes all along the flange, thus allowing more air flow,but, helping to keep larger debris out. And, to keep water from just gushing in.

Dale

Click to expand...

I have done this and it works well, noticable difference, it is easy to tell how much air it sucks through those holes because you will see the dirt on the filter right by every hole

Click to expand...

I cutted and trimmed the whole flange away on both sides. I can now almost stick my hand between the seat and radiator shroud.

Intake noise is a bit more quiet now I think. Power wise I can't really tell difference because I installed 4 tooth bigger rear sprocket at same time. 4th gear wheelies are just too effortless now and I can cruise in 6th at 60mph.

lyon90 said:

im running a safari tank and there is a pretty big gap between the seat and tank and not much i could do to improve it anyway

Click to expand...

The hole in the seat is a lot larger than any gap and the hole in the seat doesn't have to turn a corner.

45mm throttle body

Can't wait for winter to get my motor built. Hopefully aftermarket camshafts are available then. 570 really needs more top end power to keep up with 450 japs!

Are there other full exhausts available than akra header + slip on and bergos system with doma can? Akra looks nicer, but supposedly 3-4hp less than Bergos.