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70 degree oil flow

Joined May 2009
108 Posts | 0+
South Island,New Zealand
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[code][img]http://www.husaberg.org/gallery/d/35942-1/29395_81238_oil_show_3_thumb2_1_.jpg[/code]
29395_81238_oil_show_3_thumb2_1_.jpg


Anyone got an explanation of the oil flow on the 70 degree,when the bike downhills,oil ends up pooling in under the rocker cover,hence the top screen under the bandjo bolt and the feedline back downstairs?
 
want to put picture in the above post,the one on home page of oil flow, have a gallery activated but am stuck at this point.....

... highlight the image properties, the one with the http address, hit ctrl + C, and this will copy the info.

...your post click the Img tag, your cursor will be between the two Img's, simply hit ctrl + V and it will paste the photo info into your post


(highlight the image properties, the one with the http address) the photo properties appear below my photos but there is no http address where do you find it..any help thanks.
 
Heya,

I went ahead and fixed your post, but left your original img code as well as showed you what I used to create the image in the post so you could see the difference. Sorry for the thread hijack :)

thanks,
json
 
Thanks js :cheers: ,appreciate your help,I got it :bounce3:
 
That green line, or screen in the top of the head you mention is connected to an oil pump, or in this case, a scavenging pump. It's design is to take care of what you just mentioned on down hills etc.... This scavenging pump returns oil back to the trans area, where the main pressure lubricating oil pump picks it up and sends it on it's way to the vital parts of your motor via the oil filter.

Notice that both the line you are talking about, and the short line from the pick up screen in the trans are both green, and they both are suction lines.
 
I was wondering why the screen under the the bolt,when the tappet cover has a comnplete seal and the oil has been cleaned,the screen seems to always be clean?
 
How often are you guys checking the screen in the Banjo bolt in the head?
My screen is always clean too.
 
maybe its a safety feature, as it is an inspection area with checking the clearences.My thought it only needs to be checked afted the lids been off.
 
The only time I found anything on it was when I did the first oil change. Now I just check it when I clean my oil filter. It has always been clean since the first change though. In fact the bottom screen has always been clean, except the very first change after the first hour.
 
Every service I check mine, I have beeen thru a few sets of copper washers too. It gives me piece of mind, you can see early if anythimg is going pear shaped up top.
 
Good point berglsmerg.
I use a torque wrench on the Banjo but am just a bit worried the Banjo thread might strip after awhile.
I have been changing the oil and filter after every good days ride.
 
ur both right better to check, any metal debris appearing in the screen may be a valuable warning.
 
I don't check the banjo bolt every ride either. Usually every 2 rides or so but typically there's no debris.

Hey.... are you guys running paper or steel oil filters?

I've been running a steel filter.

Just curious.
 
The original KTM part (filter) has a pre-determined flow rate,I would use that until out of warrantee period. I have read on this forum the stainless do the job well.
 
Been using the Scott's Stainless filter since 2002. Beware of cheap imitations.............
 
I am using KTM 77038005044 paper filters because that is what my dealer sold me.
What is the advantage of using the Stainless Steel ones?
 
Hey thanks for that info Weed and Dale.
Makes sense the Orange Pumpkin Paper filters are $16.50 each
I guess that is why Delo400 is popular aswell because the Motorex Cross Power 4T is $120 for 4 litres?

I learn heaps here on UHE, it's great. Who was that person the other day saying the site is unhealthy :wink:
 
Davo,

Do a search on here about the oil filters, lot's of discussion there about paper and stainless filters. I think the stainless are the way to go, and others think the paper is the way to go. If you decide to go with the stainless just be sure it's a Scott's oil filter as their epoxy is rated at much higher temps than the cheaper knock offs.

I use a product made by CRC called Lectra Motive contact cleaner that does a great job and doesn't appear to hurt the rubber. Stay away from carb cleaners and especially brake cleaners, they are brutal. The harshest is Berryman's Chem tool carb cleaner, it works great for cleaning metal but that's all it should touch.

I found another good contact cleaner recently, and that is CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner, cleans well but doesn't hurt plastic.
 

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