650 Boiling

Nite · Sep 18, 2013

Hi!
I am having a similar problem with my 450.
After about 30min in the woods it starts making a "gurgling" sound, something like the coolant is boiling its way trough the cooler.
It also occasionally spits small amounts of water out of the rubber hose leading from the filler cap.

As soon as I gently unscrew the filler cap, it settles and stops "gurgling".

I bled the system when filling, and its a good mixture.

Could it be a issue of having too much fluid? : S
I've checked the impeller several times the last week, so signs of wear or anything.

Thankful for any advice,
Nite.

08FE650 · Sep 19, 2013

Just checking that you guys know there is a bleed screw on top of the head that has to be cracked

Nite · Sep 20, 2013

08FE650 said:
Just checking that you guys know there is a bleed screw on top of the head that has to be cracked

Hi,
Yes! Last i filled, I opened the bleed screw, filled until it starting pouring out of said hole.
Do I need to bleed the system further after fillng like this?

Cheers,
Richard

08FE650 · Sep 20, 2013

Nah that's all. Was just checking as my local berg dealer didn't know it existed. Lol.

Nite · Sep 21, 2013

Haha, great!
Sounds like you should try and find another dealer

/ nite

edelweiss · Oct 6, 2013

What is the proper size of the impeller? Tamas said, smaller impeller solved his boiling problem, I have a black one (diameter 44mm) and I think it may have not enough space in the case, cause it is slightly worn and the case is worn as well - in the front part (7-11 hours). maybe, it was caused by loose bearing on the water pump shaft that I already changed, but the boiling problem continues. new radiator cap for higher pressure (1.8psi) makes it even worse. I don´t want to see steam blowing from the weep hole again on my bike. so, after my engine turned into steam engine, I put the cylinder head down and there was an unkind surprise: used gasket and a cooper-sheet ring glued with silicone to the head. grrr. this week I am going to change the head gasket and hope it helps drastically, but I have a bad feeling that even if it helps, problem will not be solved for good, because it is somewhere else.

Tamas · Oct 6, 2013

The impellor size at the base is pretty much the same, the blades vary a little bit in length and shape and are in different angle. But all this is barely noticeable. My guess is that my problem was mainly caused by not using proper coolant. I did however make my fuel mixture a bit more rich as well, maybe that helped too. If your head gasket doesn't look right it's probably the cause of your problem.

Tom

edelweiss · Oct 7, 2013

I would be more self sufficient about this, but it is not so easy and uncomplicated. As I wrote before, the bore in my engine is downsized to 95mm. There is a sleeve with 95mm inner diameter put into a bigger, probably worn original 100mm sleeve. the top ends of the sleeves are not in plane, the smaller/inner one is visibly lower (don´t know exactly, lets say max. -1mm). that is why the mechanic tried to compensate the difference by copper sheet ring, which he glued by silicone. but it is proved now, that this doesn´t work. So simply changing gasket may not help again. And I will waste money, time and nerves. Coolant I am using is a common one, used for automobiles with Alu heads, I am mixing it 50:50 with distilled water, or even less water to make sure the seal on water pump is sufficiently lubricated and preventing ice occurence in canals in winter. But if coolant goes into combustion space and into oil, it is not primarily the question of coolant name. Another thing is, my crankcase (near the left crank bearing) is broken and welded. I don´t know if it was an injury from outside, or inside. The bearing on the water pump shaft had enormous play. So, maybe vibrations from crank do some bad (the left crank bearing may be loose in seat and causing faster wear on the counterweight= inner water pump bearing). But I think, I would feel it, the motor does not vibrate. Only whistles, which is normal. The water canals itself are far higher from the "wound" and therefore I suppose, can´t interfere anyhow, so I can only make theories about the cause of problems with water without breaking the cases into halves. :cry:

Tamas · Oct 7, 2013

Put some pictures up if possible. How long have you had the bike? Did it always boil the water or is it a recent problem? Do you get oil in the coolant or any other black stuff on the surface of the cooling liquid (like ash)?

edelweiss · Oct 7, 2013

Tamas said:
Put some pictures up if possible. How long have you had the bike? Did it always boil the water or is it a recent problem? Do you get oil in the coolant or any other black stuff on the surface of the cooling liquid (like ash)?

no oil in coolant. ashy stuff in coolant - may be, not sure. may be once, the last time, I was test running the engine with opened radiator cap. It was bubbling like hell and the surface of coolant was going up and down. the problem with coolant I have exists from the time I have the bike (said to be after General Rebuild, now less than 50mh after it), but I was not riding in the woods, just track, pause, track, pause style and I refilled coolant if the level dropped. I was checking it after each 20min ride after the bike cooled down. The consumption of coolant was approximately 1-2dcl/1mh under such conditions. When I went to the woods for longer half day ride last time, my water supply of 3L in backpack was nearly insufficient, that means consumption 1L/1mh (extremely alarming). before this ride I installed stronger radiator cap, which I hoped could solve the problem, but made it worse instead. the oil turned into cappuccino within these 3hours. I was told only new sleeve may cure this and I am afraid it is a good guess. I will provide pictures later.

650 Boiling

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