570 wheel spacers

I had the all balls ones: steel ring on a black PVC spacer but still prefered the factory originals.

regards

taffy

I recently replaced my rear wheel bearings and spacers with a kit from Pivot works, and was really impressed with their more upgraded version.

What I thought was a nice touch was the O rings on the inside of the spacers to keep any spooge from getting to the wheel bearing past the axle. The kit also came with an extra set of the O rings for the inside of the spacers. The spacers were hard anodized.

They call it their FW Water Proof wheel collar kit go to their site and check it out. http://www.pivotworks.com/ProductInfo.aspx?item_id=4527

Yes, they seem to stay in place like the OEM's.

The main problem with the OEM"s is that they are not hard anodized and the spacers wear out from the seals rubbing on them, so in theory the hard anodized will last a lot longer.

The All Balls ones are steel so they last better than the OEM's as well.

What I didn't put in my post was that one of my bearings was shot, no play but very rough, and the other was good.

The only thing I don't like about either of these kits is that bearings are of course made in China. I think the SKF bearings are really good............

I have the All Balls rear kit on my 04 550 but have not put many hours on them. And I just put the pivot works ones on my 09 and rode the IDC 100 on them, but, have not touched my bike since getting back from that. I will be changing out tires soon from that ride and will let you know how well the axle O rings worked.

Dale

I must have bought my bike with aftermarket spacers on it then because they're excellent hard chromed steel.

regards

Taffy

This is a great subject , I am going to get a set of those spacers with o rings, can anyone say if the outer running surface is stainless?
Ps check the original berg bearings , mine are NSK Japanese UU grove , means contact seals (brown) , wouldn't use non contact seals when doing water crossings .water still goes between axle and spacer , want that o ring please.
:cheers:

I've read before that these different coloured seals don't mean anything?

has anyone found a reliable source on the web for information?

regards

Taffy

no not this one.

people are saying that different coloured seals do different job applications but I've found only one web site and that even mentions the colours and it says that it is done by manufacturers to bring brand awareness!

you know I don't know what the codes are but I've always wondered why manufacturers use a seal that falls inwards and not a seal with the the lip pushing away rather like the dust seal on a fork leg.

I bet there are seals out there like this. the crank seals have a double lip but again they 'fall inwards'.

regards

Taffy

There used to be some kind of color code, correct me if I am wrong but something like this brown was supposed to mean nitrile or a softer higher temp thing , but on the bearing sides , not too sure, I've forgotten over the years, plus china may have found they can sell seals at a higher price if they are brown....

Basically the NSk bearing I was referring to, the important thing it has a substantial groove in the inner race where the seal lip runs hence the code UU , the bearing grease is protected and original bearings last a good while.
Most other bearings have a code 2rs meaning 2 x rubber seals , they are in most cases non contact and if you clean the grease from a new bearing , pop the seal back in on one side, hold it up to the light you can see a gap, ok for dust and water may evaporate out in some cases , but not on bikes ,water will only go IN (bugger)

maybe someone else knows the best bearings and seals? I'd have thought C2 or standard?

don't know - that's why I ask!

Taffy

Hi All! Having a problem getting the wheel spacers off. Looked for other posts but could not find anything. Any ideas appreciated. 2009 570 fe

Two things I've learned from my KTM rear wheel bearing issues.

Number one: Most, if not all, sealed bearings come with very little grease in them from the factory. Simply using a dental pick to pull the seal and then filling them with grease before installing them is a big bonus and pays huge dividends in bearing life.

Number two: I believe it is MSR manufactures a kit for the KTM that will fit the Husaberg too. This kit has 20% wider bearings, new sleve, new seals, and new spacers. The wider bearings last forever since they are capable of 20% more loading. The seals and spacers with this kit are nothing special, but with the wider bearings and adding good grease to the bearings when installing them, my rear wheel bearing failures almost disappeared. I say almost, because I know nothing is going to last forever, but i haven't changed a rear wheel bearing on the KTM since installing the kit.

One other thing, the All Balls kit, well many question the quality of bearing supplied by All Balls. I've read posts about their cheap bearings. I know they never lasted on my KTM and when the Hussaberg had a rear wheel bearing that was questionable, I installed SKF Bearings which are designed for commercial electric motors, they seem to be much better and have better seals too it seems.