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570 FE 2012 rear brake caliper question after renewing disc

Joined Nov 2014
5 Posts | 2+
Netherlands
Hi Berg fans!
Tech question on maintenance on my Berg 570:
normally when renewing brake pads at rear wheel, the upper part of the brake caliper would always move by hand left or right, in order to make room for thicker pads or disc, but now there's no way I get to move it.
Already tried spraying penetrating oil along the opening of both rubbers that cover the sliding bolt (or part how you call it?), the one on the rear side of caliper still moves the other one won't.

Any ideas how to make this work / have any one had this issue before?
For now I did succeed to re-install the old pads again, so that there's enough room, so that I can at least rol, but would like to get this right, thanks in advance for help, greetz, Robert
 
The Caliper piston is probably partially or fully seized. This tool can help break it free. You may need to rebuild the Caliper. Remove the Master Cylinder Fluid reservoir cover and remove some fluid before you push the piston back into the Caliper. When doing automotive brakes, you almost always need to use this type of tool. On motorcycles and bicycles not as much.


Motorcycle Brake Caliper Spreader | OTC Tools

4743_7719_0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks Husabutt for your reply.However the piston was not stuck and is already al the way pushed in now.
The question is how to get the upper part of the caliper housing to move again.
That is necessary to make room for the new pad on the other side of the disc where it sits in the caliper without the disc.

Best regards, Robert
 
an OEM kit

And here is a bit more in an aftermarket kit; aftermarket kit

There you go. if it's sliding OK then you found alternative pads. people thoink all pads are the same but one set will be 6.5mm per pad, another will be 8.6mm and the third will be 10.6mm thick and simply can't be fitted.

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy,
Don't know what you mean by 'if it;s sliding OK' but in my post I mention that sliding is not at all blocked.
So question was what do you do if you want to make it slide again?

Also, your info on pad thickness I did not order these online but in a store, I can go back but what according to you would then be max allowed pad thickness per factory spec?

Thanks again for helping, Robert
 
very thin!
They have to lose heat quickly.

let us say these guys looked up the shape in a book. they find the shape and order the pads very happy - this is the mug shot of the pad. but there is usually another diagram underneath and that is the pad from the side. the profile photo. this is where they write the thickness of the pad.

If they had looked on through their book further, the diagra,m would have come up again. and maybe even again! THREE TIMES. all three look the same mug shot. but the profile will be 6.5mm, 7.8mm, 9.6mm.

If you are really stuck i suggest you remove the caliper, put the pads in and fit it all on the disc. if OK it is just the wheel's relationship to the caliper carrier and is usually the wheel spacers being wrong.

if you can't even fit it then you either have a new disc that's too thick or pads that are too thick.

I won't answer any more questions on this.

Taffy
 
you're a funny one Taffy, after reading your last sentence.

I agree a lot of posts just to get the problem right, however if you would read again my original post you would - if you are even a bit experienced in technology - see that I mentioned that the problem is that the upper part of the caliper is not sliding any more over the fitting / connecting bolts.
Sorry but I estimate now you wouldn't even know that a caliper actually does that, correct me if I'm wrong.

Any way a lot of posts but no help at all, sorry needing to be open and honest to you

Is there any one in this group that does know how a rear brake caliper of HUSABERG 570 is designed and works?

Thanks again


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