Good people I need guidance. The rockers on my 2002 470 are worn and for a long time would not do a feeler gauge set. The hand turn has worked fine. I think I have serious valve set recession as the valves are very tight after a old slow guy's 35-40 mile off road ride. I am due a full head rebuild. I vaguely remember that 470 rockers were the pits. The parts fiche says the replacements are common on the 470 and 500 series. So are these better now? What's the best bet for valves, seats and springs? I seem to remember a better auto decomp could be fit. I assume a cam chain and tensioner should be changed too. Finally, what's the story on the thick and standard head gasket? We see about the piston and bottom end when its down.
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Hi
I have rebuild one exactly like yours for a friend and I've changed it a bit to soft it, for me the end result was good.
I've changed the piston to a flat one (from 650) to lower compression and changed also the cam to a 01 (FE).
On the bottom end it's the same as the 400 and that thing of thick head gasket forget it, they don't exist.
On the head I needed one valve that I got from Taffy, also used the dual valve from Taffy and the newer autodecomp and the stronger spring. The rockers are the same as all bikes from that age and you probably can live with just new rollers, if you want to update you have to change everything and people say they are better ?? but I would just change the rollers, if everything is ok.
If you will going to rebuild, for me, it's all new bearings (good ones, C3 and C4 on mains, and 2RS1 on cam) and all new seals. And check rod (important).
Hope it helps ... and you got yourself a big bill
:cheers:
ZAGA
I have rebuild one exactly like yours for a friend and I've changed it a bit to soft it, for me the end result was good.
I've changed the piston to a flat one (from 650) to lower compression and changed also the cam to a 01 (FE).
On the bottom end it's the same as the 400 and that thing of thick head gasket forget it, they don't exist.
On the head I needed one valve that I got from Taffy, also used the dual valve from Taffy and the newer autodecomp and the stronger spring. The rockers are the same as all bikes from that age and you probably can live with just new rollers, if you want to update you have to change everything and people say they are better ?? but I would just change the rollers, if everything is ok.
If you will going to rebuild, for me, it's all new bearings (good ones, C3 and C4 on mains, and 2RS1 on cam) and all new seals. And check rod (important).
Hope it helps ... and you got yourself a big bill
:cheers:
ZAGA
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
ditto what Ken and Jose have said.
also, turn theocker shafts so the wear that was underneath is now on top. I can still get the shafts though.
I can get bushes
DVSK
change the tappet pads and the nuts
I can still get the CFBs
the inlets are an abolute fortune at $160+ EACH!
I have some cheaper race valves than they are standard!
later auto decomp and spring
sealed cam bearings - not open.
check the shafts at the far end for wear in the rocker cover - ask if they are loose
I blank off the manual decomp shaft hole and rely totally on the cam ADC. then take the hand decomp cable and make a manual (at the bars) choke cable
I can't disagree about the 650 piston and the 01 cam as I suggested it so if Zaga now says he's happy then it must be good!
watch the exhaust valves, the seats can tip over the years so I always have the seats cut on all 4 seats. I have the inlest done with a 'three angle cut' and the sxhausts are just a straight 'kiss' as we call it. I then have the two exhasut valves faces and the stems 'sliced flat'.
you need a mortgage to do the top end.
also check the rocker inspection caps are flat. if not stick half of a cap in the vice and give them a gentle 'whack' and that flattens them a treat!
what else? well while I was there I would use my two index fingers to see how bad the little end bush is by trying to rotate the piston CW and ACW (or CCW as you say).
oh and upgrade the CCT blade while you're there (i do these of course)
I think that that is about it? I even have a ground cam beacuse even if you're happy with the cam they look like a skating ring up close.
check where the CFBs have been running as well? if not in the middle of the lobes then do something about it.
if you have an alloy cam sprocket - please say it here. also if you have steel but the shoulder of the cam butts through the middle by 2mm let us know here?
regards
Taffy
also, turn theocker shafts so the wear that was underneath is now on top. I can still get the shafts though.
I can get bushes
DVSK
change the tappet pads and the nuts
I can still get the CFBs
the inlets are an abolute fortune at $160+ EACH!
I have some cheaper race valves than they are standard!
later auto decomp and spring
sealed cam bearings - not open.
check the shafts at the far end for wear in the rocker cover - ask if they are loose
I blank off the manual decomp shaft hole and rely totally on the cam ADC. then take the hand decomp cable and make a manual (at the bars) choke cable
I can't disagree about the 650 piston and the 01 cam as I suggested it so if Zaga now says he's happy then it must be good!
watch the exhaust valves, the seats can tip over the years so I always have the seats cut on all 4 seats. I have the inlest done with a 'three angle cut' and the sxhausts are just a straight 'kiss' as we call it. I then have the two exhasut valves faces and the stems 'sliced flat'.
you need a mortgage to do the top end.
also check the rocker inspection caps are flat. if not stick half of a cap in the vice and give them a gentle 'whack' and that flattens them a treat!
what else? well while I was there I would use my two index fingers to see how bad the little end bush is by trying to rotate the piston CW and ACW (or CCW as you say).
oh and upgrade the CCT blade while you're there (i do these of course)
I think that that is about it? I even have a ground cam beacuse even if you're happy with the cam they look like a skating ring up close.
check where the CFBs have been running as well? if not in the middle of the lobes then do something about it.
if you have an alloy cam sprocket - please say it here. also if you have steel but the shoulder of the cam butts through the middle by 2mm let us know here?
regards
Taffy
Joined Mar 2009
1K Posts | 251+
Portugal
Slow down Taffy ... you are scaring the man !!
That build is what I've called one FE470, but make no mistake it's still not a bike for the tight stuff, still too much of an engine (at least for normal people) :mrgreen: But in more fast tracks it is a blast, looks like a rally car.
:cheers:
ZAGA
That build is what I've called one FE470, but make no mistake it's still not a bike for the tight stuff, still too much of an engine (at least for normal people) :mrgreen: But in more fast tracks it is a blast, looks like a rally car.
:cheers:
ZAGA
Folks lotta good information in each response. Note that this is a 12 year old bike that has never had a top end job. I admit that I started riding this one at 56 and never really beat it hard but it got loads and loads of 25 45 mile desert rides on it. It went enduro gearing to bring down the rpm levels when I got it as a crate bike from HMS in Park City for $2300! when the then husaberg distributer went BK. My 96 501 went 6 years of moto and desert before a wrist pin let go. I am looking at $10 to 11k for a new bike which will outlast my body's ability to take the pounding of off road. :?: That is why I would consider this level of spendIng. ....so Maybe a little less cam is In order too? It getting hard to fin folks worked on this series of Berg
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