300lb settings for rear shock?

parks · Dec 31, 2007

Hello,

I have recently joined the Husaberg family wth a 2006 fe450. I have been trying to dial in my rear shock. It has a WP spring that I assume from markings is rated for up to a 250 lb rider. I turned the adjusment nut down to were I can see about 4mm of thread showing on the bottom. When I sit my 300lbs down it still has too much sag. Can I purchase a spring set p for a 300lb rider?

Johnf3 · Dec 31, 2007

parks said:
Hello,

I have recently joined the Husaberg family wth a 2006 fe450. I have been trying to dial in my rear shock. It has a WP spring that I assume from markings is rated for up to a 250 lb rider. I turned the adjusment nut down to were I can see about 4mm of thread showing on the bottom. When I sit my 300lbs down it still has too much sag. Can I purchase a spring set p for a 300lb rider?

The 250 is the length of the shock spring, in mm. At 300, you will need at least a 10.6, maybe higher spring. For reference, your stock spring is a 8.0.

I assume you are in the USA. If so, call Cannon Racecraft in Oklahoma City. They are a spring manufacturer. They stock heavy WP springs for bigger riders, and can get you what you need. They are also pretty good on recommendations, so ask them as well.

buzzard · Dec 31, 2007

Hello Parks, I am not sure which spring you need. The numbers on the spring indicate two things. The 250 is the length in mm. The other number is a spring strength indicator. On a straight rate spring, it will be something like 8.0, which is an indication of how far the spring compresses due to a set force acting upon it (8.0 mm per kilogram or something like that). Then there are variable rate springs, which get stiffer as they compress. They are designated as PDS3, PDS4, and so on. There are other folks on this site who have experience at setting up bikes for your weight, they should weigh in soon, hopefully. Getting the static and rider sag set up for you is very important, and it will require the correct spring. Good luck, you have a great bike!

parks · Dec 31, 2007

Thanks to all Cannon has a 11.6 on its way

DaleEO · Dec 31, 2007

parks said:
Hello,

I have recently joined the Husaberg family wth a 2006 fe450. I have been trying to dial in my rear shock. It has a WP spring that I assume from markings is rated for up to a 250 lb rider. I turned the adjusment nut down to were I can see about 4mm of thread showing on the bottom. When I sit my 300lbs down it still has too much sag. Can I purchase a spring set p for a 300lb rider?

Mr. Parks,
It is my belief that you have way too much pre-load on your shock and risk crashing the spring into itself with that amount of pre load. That is if my visualzation of what is happening with your shock is correct.

Standard pre load for a shock spring is somewhere between 4-6 mm. For instance on my shock spring, a PDS 8, which is a 255, the spring with no pre load on it measures something like 255mm's, I have 5mm of pre load on it and that gives a static sag of 33mm with just the bike and a half tank of fuel.

If you look in your owners manual on page 33, it states that the minimum pre load on your spring is 4mm, with a max pre load of 12 mm, and a standard pre load on your bike of 6mm. Pages 29-33 are a good source for understanding what the definitions of static and rider sag are.

So, you are definitely going to need a stiffer rear spring. As well, you will need stiffer fork springs. If you don't go stiffer on the fork springs your bike is going to be way out of balance and will handle extremely poorly. I would imagine that with an 11.6 shock spring you are going to need at least a .50 or .52 forks springs.

With your weight being what it is, I highly reccomend that you seek out a well known and reputable suspension shop to set your bike up so that you will enjoy it. A revalve will also be in order since the spring rates will be much higher than the standard range and the stock rebound damping stack will probably be insufficient, and it will spit you off faster than you can say Jack Roberts.

I know it's a chunk of dough but it is money well spent and you should not be disappointed with the end results.

I highly reccomend Clean Racing here in So Cal (714-434 92010), since I don't know where you live you can always mail it to him. He does a fair amount of suspension work that way. I will also offer this advice, STAY AWAY FROM RACE TECH, I have personal experience with this shop and would not let them touch anything, I, or my competitors own.

Should you need any further assistance let me/us know and we will be glad to help you oiut.

Dale

Johnf3 · Dec 31, 2007

Johnf3 said:
parks said:

Hello,

I have recently joined the Husaberg family wth a 2006 fe450. I have been trying to dial in my rear shock. It has a WP spring that I assume from markings is rated for up to a 250 lb rider. I turned the adjusment nut down to were I can see about 4mm of thread showing on the bottom. When I sit my 300lbs down it still has too much sag. Can I purchase a spring set p for a 300lb rider?

Click to expand...

The 250 is the length of the shock spring, in mm. At 300, you will need at least a 10.6, maybe higher spring. For reference, your stock spring is a 8.0.

I assume you are in the USA. If so, call Cannon Racecraft in Oklahoma City. They are a spring manufacturer. They stock heavy WP springs for bigger riders, and can get you what you need. They are also pretty good on recommendations, so ask them as well.

Johnf3 · Dec 31, 2007

So, you are definitely going to need a stiffer rear spring. As well, you will need stiffer fork springs. If you don't go stiffer on the fork springs your bike is going to be way out of balance and will handle extremely poorly. I would imagine that with an 11.6 shock spring you are going to need at least a .50 or .52 forks springs.

With your weight being what it is, I highly reccomend that you seek out a well known and reputable suspension shop to set your bike up so that you will enjoy it. A revalve will also be in order since the spring rates will be much higher than the standard range and the stock rebound damping stack will probably be insufficient, and it will spit you off faster than you can say Jack Roberts.

Dale

Agreed. Get some stiffer fork springs as well. Your resprung bike will be a big improvement, even with the stock valving. It certainly will not spit you off faster than you can say Jack Roberts, whoever he is.

The WP PDS suspension is highly tolerant of big swings in spring changes. Although revalving is a good idea, I think you should get the correct springs, set the sag correctly, and then evaluate what else you might want to do based on how the bike handles and reacts. Make one change at a time, and test everything out thoroughly.

AUSBERG · Dec 31, 2007

As Dale stated, be very wary about putting excess preload on an unsuitable spring to try and obtain correct sag numbers.

There have been isolated cases of the bottom (yes, bottom) spring retainers breaking and the possibility of excess preload/possible subsequent coil bind causing this in some cases.

DaleEO · Dec 31, 2007

Johnf3 said:
So, you are definitely going to need a stiffer rear spring. As well, you will need stiffer fork springs. If you don't go stiffer on the fork springs your bike is going to be way out of balance and will handle extremely poorly. I would imagine that with an 11.6 shock spring you are going to need at least a .50 or .52 forks springs.

With your weight being what it is, I highly reccomend that you seek out a well known and reputable suspension shop to set your bike up so that you will enjoy it. A revalve will also be in order since the spring rates will be much higher than the standard range and the stock rebound damping stack will probably be insufficient, and it will spit you off faster than you can say Jack Roberts.

Dale

Agreed. Get some stiffer fork springs as well. Your resprung bike will be a big improvement, even with the stock valving. It certainly will not spit you off faster than you can say Jack Roberts, whoever he is.

The WP PDS suspension is highly tolerant of big swings in spring changes. Although revalving is a good idea, I think you should get the correct springs, set the sag correctly, and then evaluate what else you might want to do based on how the bike handles and reacts. Make one change at a time, and test everything out thoroughly.

Well, I suppose the Jack Roberts thing was a bit much, just relating some personal experience from my 01, from which I was spit off of faster than you could say Jack Roberts one day. Took me totally by surprise, almost bit off the end of my tonge, a dislocated jaw, six broken ribs, and several weeks off work taught me a big lesson about that sort of thing.

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