I took a look at the starter relay, I only see 1 20 amp fuse in it, and it is intact.
2013 FE501 no spark
- Thread starter Kawasaki108
- Start date
OK, I have an assortment of wiring diagrams that probably relate to your bike, but none of them actually admit to it!
As soon as they've uploaded to my Google drive I'll send you a link.
If I understand correctly and if I have the correct diagrams you have no ignition switch of any sort. If the 20A fuse in the starter relay is intact you probably have power to the main relay, but the relay itself is not switching. That will normally happen only after you start cranking and the generator produces an output, which feeds the regulator/rectifier, which in turn switches pin 2 of the relay to ground, thereby turning it on... and making pin 3 of the main relay live. It's this switched pin 3 that turns everything on.
So, first check to see you have battery voltage reaching the main relay. If you do not have the battery voltage at the relay, trace your wiring back to that 20A fuse to find a break or a dodgy connector. If you have +12V on pins 1 and 4 of the relay, try making a temporary ground to pin 2 of the relay and see if everything switches on. If it does, your bike should start and your focus needs to go to the generator, and the regulator/rectifier (R/R)and the associated wiring.
At the R/R, it's pin 4 that should be switched to ground when the generator gives an output. If it doesn't, disconnect the generator and see if it makes an AC output (measure between any two pairs of the three wires). If it does make an AC output and all the wires and connectors are OK, suspect your R/R and consider replacing it. If you don't get an AC output, open your generator to look for damage to the wires or the stator itself.
Hopefully this will be enough, but it's far from exhaustive, as we've only considered the main relay. If that's working OK, there's a long long list of stuff that needs to be checked... So good luck!
Bug-fixing wiring is always a challenge when done remotely. Another hour and I'll send you that link to the wiring diagrams by PM.
Cheers... Paul
As soon as they've uploaded to my Google drive I'll send you a link.
If I understand correctly and if I have the correct diagrams you have no ignition switch of any sort. If the 20A fuse in the starter relay is intact you probably have power to the main relay, but the relay itself is not switching. That will normally happen only after you start cranking and the generator produces an output, which feeds the regulator/rectifier, which in turn switches pin 2 of the relay to ground, thereby turning it on... and making pin 3 of the main relay live. It's this switched pin 3 that turns everything on.
So, first check to see you have battery voltage reaching the main relay. If you do not have the battery voltage at the relay, trace your wiring back to that 20A fuse to find a break or a dodgy connector. If you have +12V on pins 1 and 4 of the relay, try making a temporary ground to pin 2 of the relay and see if everything switches on. If it does, your bike should start and your focus needs to go to the generator, and the regulator/rectifier (R/R)and the associated wiring.
At the R/R, it's pin 4 that should be switched to ground when the generator gives an output. If it doesn't, disconnect the generator and see if it makes an AC output (measure between any two pairs of the three wires). If it does make an AC output and all the wires and connectors are OK, suspect your R/R and consider replacing it. If you don't get an AC output, open your generator to look for damage to the wires or the stator itself.
Hopefully this will be enough, but it's far from exhaustive, as we've only considered the main relay. If that's working OK, there's a long long list of stuff that needs to be checked... So good luck!
Bug-fixing wiring is always a challenge when done remotely. Another hour and I'll send you that link to the wiring diagrams by PM.
Cheers... Paul
Ok so I did some checks, the main power relay is getting power, but is not clicking over when I attempt I start it. I made a temporary ground and the relay will then activate. I tried start the bike and still no spark or fuel pump prime. Wiring harness appears to be intact from what I have found so far. Also all lights and gauges are working fine. Not sure why the relay isn’t being grounded when trying to start..... thanks again so much for all of your help. I am at a complete loss, stator, rectifier and coil are brand new. Ecu is the only item I haven’t replaced yet, but I’m thinking that might be the issue. Anyone here ever heard of the ecu dying?
Before you go to the expense of replacing the ECU, there are other things that need to be checked following your success of powering the main relay.
Firstly, note that the temporary ground that you made needs to at the R/R end of the harness as it also forms the ECU ground on its pin 30.
Secondly, check you have power reaching the ECU on pins 1 and 14. If you don't check your fuses!
If all OK, the next thing to look at is the crank position sensor. Is it physically OK with its connector and wiring intact? Pull the stator cover and have a look. You still need to understand why the R/R isn't giving a signal to the main relay, so you need to investigate down there anyway. It looks like a simple VR sensor, so disconnect it and measure its resistance (I cannot find real data, but somewhere between 200 and 300 Ohms is expected) and if you can, measure the signal arriving at pins 9 and 3 of the ECU.
Report back when done... and I'll try to help more if needed.
Cheers... Paul
Firstly, note that the temporary ground that you made needs to at the R/R end of the harness as it also forms the ECU ground on its pin 30.
Secondly, check you have power reaching the ECU on pins 1 and 14. If you don't check your fuses!
If all OK, the next thing to look at is the crank position sensor. Is it physically OK with its connector and wiring intact? Pull the stator cover and have a look. You still need to understand why the R/R isn't giving a signal to the main relay, so you need to investigate down there anyway. It looks like a simple VR sensor, so disconnect it and measure its resistance (I cannot find real data, but somewhere between 200 and 300 Ohms is expected) and if you can, measure the signal arriving at pins 9 and 3 of the ECU.
Report back when done... and I'll try to help more if needed.
Cheers... Paul
Thanks Paul! Will do! The crank position sensor or as they call it, pulse denerator is brand new. I replaced it along with the stator, so it should be good. I will investigate to see if I am getting power to the ecu. I will update soon. Thanks again for all your help!
Its slightly difficult to follow where youre at 
Could you make a list of what you tried and maintain that? And videos will help tremedously!
Anyway, the main relay does not kick in as far as I can understand?
If you take a 19 mill C-spanner and short the starter relay physically it will crank, but what more happens? Do the lights and instrument turn on? Or is it just cranking the engine over?
Perhaps the starter is activated fine via the startbutton already? Hence the idea of keeping a record/statement that you include in every post pushing the info forward so people dont have to dig through old posts to see where youre at.
Could you make a list of what you tried and maintain that? And videos will help tremedously!
Anyway, the main relay does not kick in as far as I can understand?
If you take a 19 mill C-spanner and short the starter relay physically it will crank, but what more happens? Do the lights and instrument turn on? Or is it just cranking the engine over?
Perhaps the starter is activated fine via the startbutton already? Hence the idea of keeping a record/statement that you include in every post pushing the info forward so people dont have to dig through old posts to see where youre at.
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Ok everyone, I have replaced the stator, stator pick up, rectifier, ecu, coil and ecu wiring harness. Still no spark!!! I really dont understand, everything is new. I am beyond frustrated. The kill switch is disconnected completely at this time. I am at a complete loss. Not sure what else I can do at this point. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks again.
Probably the very best thing you could do at this point is STOP buying random parts in the hope they will cure your problem! You need to look for the problem, find the problem, find out the cause of the problem, then fix it. All it takes is simple logic, applied intelligently. Trying to jump to the end point is like swatting a fly in the dark, wearing a blindfold... and earplugs... without any form of flyswatter...
As you seem to have replaced everything responsible for making the spark, I suggest you need to look for something that is convincing the ECU that it shouldn't... or find an issue hidden in your wiring. Have you checked your roll-over sensor for example?
Personally, I'd start by probing into the connector at the ECU with everything connected and switched on whilst cranking the engine. If anything is amiss, follow those questionable pins to their source or supply and find out what's going on.
I can help, but only if you follow instructions. Otherwise, I wish you luck.
Cheers... Paul
As you seem to have replaced everything responsible for making the spark, I suggest you need to look for something that is convincing the ECU that it shouldn't... or find an issue hidden in your wiring. Have you checked your roll-over sensor for example?
Personally, I'd start by probing into the connector at the ECU with everything connected and switched on whilst cranking the engine. If anything is amiss, follow those questionable pins to their source or supply and find out what's going on.
I can help, but only if you follow instructions. Otherwise, I wish you luck.
Cheers... Paul
Ok, so I think I have may have found something helpful, finally! The main power relay next to the lighting relay under the seat by the air filter is not activating when I try and start the bike. If I jump the relay, the fuel tank primes and when I attempt to start I’m getting spark! If I remove the jumper the bike dies and I loose spark and the fuel pump. Not sure where to look from here, but maybe I’m on the right track finally. And as always thank you for all your help.
Now I'm confused, but this is good news. Post #22 suggested you do exactly that, and in post #23 you said it resulted in the main relay switching, but no spark or pump prime.
You've since changed pretty much everything and now the behaviour is different in that you're now getting spark and pump prime. Great! You have a response, but you've no idea why.
Post #24 suggested where to go next... check out the behaviour of the signal on pin 30 of the ECU... but you changed the ECU instead. It that right?
Again, plug everything back together, probe into the back of pin 30 and see if it is grounded when you crank. If it's not, you've a broken ground wire somewhere, or have failed to connect something. Or the CPS signal isn't reaching the ECU (which is not the same as the sensor being broken). Look at the wiring diagrams I sent you. If you don't understand them, please say so and I'll try to accommodate.
If and when you measure what's happening on pin 30, post the response and I'll try to guide you.
Cheers.... Paul
You've since changed pretty much everything and now the behaviour is different in that you're now getting spark and pump prime. Great! You have a response, but you've no idea why.
Post #24 suggested where to go next... check out the behaviour of the signal on pin 30 of the ECU... but you changed the ECU instead. It that right?
Again, plug everything back together, probe into the back of pin 30 and see if it is grounded when you crank. If it's not, you've a broken ground wire somewhere, or have failed to connect something. Or the CPS signal isn't reaching the ECU (which is not the same as the sensor being broken). Look at the wiring diagrams I sent you. If you don't understand them, please say so and I'll try to accommodate.
If and when you measure what's happening on pin 30, post the response and I'll try to guide you.
Cheers.... Paul
Hi friends, I really need your help! I have a similar problem, but my motorcycle starts the engine, while I can not turn on the lights, the cooling fan does not start. I have only a working engine, the on-board network of 12 volts does not work. I replaced all the fuses with new ones, the problem was not solved. I really need an electrical circuit for my motorcycle, please help
Husaberg FE501 2013
Husaberg FE501 2013
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