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2012 FE570 Headlight Dims on on Acceleration?

M

MickFodor

Joined Jul 2016
3 Posts | 0+
Sydney AUSTRALIA
Hi All,
Went for a night run through the streets on my FE570 and noticed that the headlight dims right down while accelerating.
Has anyone else had this issue or know what it might be? I have not checked the voltage to the headlight yet bu I assume that there would be a significant voltage drop. The globe works fine on idle so it cant really be that.
I have also ordered a LED replacement globe for better lighting, hoping that works too... Can anyone tell me what kind of aux lighting i can put on without killing my battery? maybe a 20W or 40W LED?
Thanks in advance.
 
Should be able to put a big *** light on it. The stator puts out 210 watts. Might want to check voltage at the battery during idle and give a couple revs and check again to see what voltage is. Could be a couple of things, how old is the battery?
 
Yes the stator is good for Nordic winter nights so it should be able to run most lights you can find. It's an important feature for us up here. Some bikes you need to invest in a new stator to be able to get a enough for a strong headlight + lights for your helmet, but 70 degrees was made with that in mind.
1839940.jpg

Yes it's a new husky, but the picture explains it.
 
Is your charging system working??? Just a thought. The battery might have a bad cel and not able to keep up. Put a voltmeter on and run it up and see what the output is, also check for amp draw if you have a multimeter with amp capability. Led should take near nothing to run so that does help ease the system.
 
looking for measure-values for the stator and voltage regulator as I suspect one of them failing on my 2010 390 and causing small "puffs" or ignition missfires
last competition on sunday it also drained the battery during driving the race

it only comes up to 12.7v on a one month old battery when reving a bit after a start

have ran lights like jon above during the winter, so I know there should be alot more "umf" from the system.

cant find this information in the service-manual
dont want to spend more than I hafto....
 
P-son said:
looking for measure-values for the stator and voltage regulator as I suspect one of them failing on my 2010 390 and causing small "puffs" or ignition missfires
last competition on sunday it also drained the battery during driving the race

it only comes up to 12.7v on a one month old battery when reving a bit after a start

have ran lights like jon above during the winter, so I know there should be alot more "umf" from the system.

cant find this information in the service-manual
dont want to spend more than I hafto....
Click to expand...

My problem consists on my 390
NO charing the battery....

Got the Stator measured up OK, so bought new charging regulator and installed it.
also did a extra earh connection between the engine and battery.

still not charging battery....

any ideas anyone ?
 
You need about 2 v abouve the battery voltage to charge it so 13.5 os what you should get
Stators usualy fail completly so my bet is the regulator
 
webmonstro said:
You need about 2 v abouve the battery voltage to charge it so 13.5 os what you should get
Stators usualy fail completly so my bet is the regulator
Click to expand...

yeah I know
but stator is OK when measuring in the wires/connector...
 
I still didn't see a test done on the battery. Just because it is a month old does not rule out a bad cell or welded plate. Take battery out and charge at 2 amps for two days. Do a load test on the battery if you don't have a load tester, take it in and have it checked. The headlight will dim if the battery can not hold as the charging system cant keep up all by itself. You should have over 13vdc when bike is running and it sometimes can drop at idle to lower. I had this problem in my Suzuki and the rectifier was gone. It would dim but at a higher rpm would ramp and come up. I screwed the rectifier up by ignoring a bad battery allowing the bikes charging system to do all the work.
When you rev the engine what voltage do you get as it must be higher than idle as per the dimming light? This can tell us something. What idle speed is the bike set at? at what rpm does the light brighten?
 
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FE350 said:
I still didn't see a test done on the battery. Just because it is a month old does not rule out a bad cell or welded plate. Take battery out and charge at 2 amps for two days. Do a load test on the battery if you don't have a load tester, take it in and have it checked. The headlight will dim if the battery can not hold as the charging system cant keep up all by itself. You should have over 13vdc when bike is running and it sometimes can drop at idle to lower. I had this problem in my Suzuki and the rectifier was gone. It would dim but at a higher rpm would ramp and come up. I screwed the rectifier up by ignoring a bad battery allowing the bikes charging system to do all the work.
When you rev the engine what voltage do you get as it must be higher than idle as per the dimming light? This can tell us something. What idle speed is the bike set at? at what rpm does the light brighten?
Click to expand...

in my case (not the threadstarter, but similar) the battery seems to hold the charge, will try to get hold of battery-tester.
battery holds 12.9v fullt charged
but battery/system voltage doesn't get higher when engine is running, no matter rev.

if I run engine so battery voltage drops to say 12.5v in garage and kill engine, then battery voltage rises again in time, so I believe battery is still fresh...
is there anything else in system, a relay or something that the power passes though on the way from rectifier to battert when engine is running ?
 
What are your reading on the stator? I also am curious do you have any frame grounds other than the engine grounds that you added? Check any grounds that are at the frame to ensure good connection. Check for bad connections, check fuse's as well. You might have a bad regulator, when you replaced was it new or used? Is anything been removed or changed on the bike eg: lights.
 
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Is it a standard factory wattage globe? I've seen it before when people fit bigger wattage globes and due to the higher heat ( increased amps ) the headlight connector/terminals melt. Might be worth checking.....

12.9 v max running/charging is a little low although it should be plenty to illuminate the headlight to full potential. Like FE350 says don't assume the battery is good because it's relatively new.

I'd remove the headlight globe and see what the potential difference is across the globe terminals on the harness, as you rev it. If it's 12.9 v or close try simply replacing the globe.

Regards

Damo
 
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FE350 said:
What are your reading on the stator? I also am curious do you have any frame grounds other than the engine grounds that you added? Check any grounds that are at the frame to ensure good connection. Check for bad connections, check fuse's as well. You might have a bad regulator, when you replaced was it new or used? Is anything been removed or changed on the bike eg: lights.
Click to expand...

Stator measured 0.5 Ohm on middle to right cable, connector facing up
0.6 Ohm between outer cables

values for OK are 0,368-0,552 Ohm +/- 10% acording to my dealer = OK

Replaced regulator with brand new.....



Damo W said:
Is it a standard factory wattage globe? I've seen it before when people fit bigger wattage globes and due to the higher heat ( increased amps ) the headlight connector/terminals melt. Might be worth checking.....

12.9 v max running/charging is a little low although it should be plenty to illuminate the headlight to full potential. Like FE350 says don't assume the battery is good because it's relatively new.

I'd remove the headlight globe and see what the potential difference is across the globe terminals on the harness, as you rev it. If it's 12.9 v or close try simply replacing the globe.

Regards

Damo
Click to expand...

My problem is not dimming light per say, just borowed the thread as it in the same region of fault...
But I run a 12w LED light, that works fine, as long as the voltage is in the system:p
I KNOW that the battery is not getting voltage when engine is on, no matter how much I rev :mad:
It is only the battery voltage I get on my readings..

will hafto tear it apart again next week, I have a trainingcamp booked for this weekend, will have extra battery and batterycharger with me, and will be running it without fan and lights, hope that it lasts during the rides...


Talked to my dealer again this morning, he said that they have had a few cases with different electrical problems during the lifespan of the 70degrees that ended up with changing complete harness due to cables being partially damaged due to the harness being to tight on some places like passing the rear shock....
 
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Now we are getting somewhere :)

The harness has not been checked for a open. I would guess this could be a huge problem. For some reason I assumed the harness was ok? Always first thing to check before throwing parts and guessing. I am sorry I assumed. Check for voltage at the regulator and for opens in the harness between stator and regulator and so forth. I bet you have a open from stator to regulator or out of the regulator to battery :)
I would also put the incandescent bulb back in as some systems run ac voltage and need resistance to trigger the regulator???? I am not sure on this model but my guess as per year it is AC to the headlight. Its worth a try to see if something mucked up with the aftermarket led???????
 
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Check the loom where it passes the fuel pump. One of the bolts rubs against. I have files that bolt head less sharp.
 
jon andersson said:
Check the loom where it passes the fuel pump. One of the bolts rubs against. I have files that bolt head less sharp.
Click to expand...

that bolts are already filed down, maybe you have ad my bike before :p

will check the complete harness after the Tibro Trainingcamp this weekend
after next weekend I will get my "new" Husky and can rip the complete 390 apart :(:confused:
 

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