Hey guys - happy Spring riding to everyone.
From the beginning....I was running a Shorai LFX14L2-BS12 14 amp battery. Bike started getting grumpy about starting in the cold and would not crank over without a jump. Battery approx. 2 years old and maintained.
Next ride a month later, while on the trail, bike started coughing and backfiring and idling like a muscle car and then it laid down. No juice on externals i.e. lights, fan, etc. and no amount of towing it back to camp via ATV trying to jump it would bring it back to life.
Took it to the local Springfield, MO dealer and they said it was the regulator. Left the bike with them, had the part flown in, new gel battery installed (Shorai dead soldier) and gave them two weeks to resolve it. OEM regulator did not resolve the issue, so I went back down, picked up the bike and drove three hours back home and had an OEM stator shipped in overnight. Figured we had everything new so let's get the bike the next day and head to White Rock, AR. Get there, behaves perfectly normal for 8 miles, then I'm pushing it back to camp. Charge the battery and it'll do fine for 8 - 12 miles depending on charge level.
I called the Springfield, MO Husaberg mechanic who seems pretty darned sharp and he provided me the following - thought it might also be of interest.
He says to run the bike with the new stator unplugged and I should see 44 volts being generated in comparison to his test of the original stator which was only showing 26 volts - which is why I flew in the new stator. Said to run a continuity test from each of the three leads from the stator to ground and if any show a completed circuit, the new stator is bad. Said to test the three leads and I should find .3 - .5 ohms. If those all show no fail, then the problem is elsewhere.
He said all that was left other than the regulator, battery and stator was the wiring to/from each component. When new, I wrapped the harness in used inner tubes, wire tied them for protection, used a heat reflective foil under the tank (that stoped the gas from boiling - could hear it when new), and wrapped the exhaust from end-to-end with NASA level heat wrap. The wiring tested out fine from a resistance and from a ground perspective - according to the mechanic who I do not believe would lie to me. He says there are no other relays, switches, etc in the charging circuit. However, I disagree - the keyed switch is in the circuit, so that has to be considered at this point as does anything else, right?
With that history and before I start testing parts, is there a history of failed new OEM regulators or stators? Is there something, anything someone can suggest given I've already spent $750 between two dealers and still have a downed machine? Has our Berg community seen this before and if so, what did we find?
Final question - if we/I determine the new OEM stator is faulty, would there be an aftermarket group I should instead spend the coin with that will give me a Captain America stator instead?
Guys - thanks for your help in advance!
Kirk
From the beginning....I was running a Shorai LFX14L2-BS12 14 amp battery. Bike started getting grumpy about starting in the cold and would not crank over without a jump. Battery approx. 2 years old and maintained.
Next ride a month later, while on the trail, bike started coughing and backfiring and idling like a muscle car and then it laid down. No juice on externals i.e. lights, fan, etc. and no amount of towing it back to camp via ATV trying to jump it would bring it back to life.
Took it to the local Springfield, MO dealer and they said it was the regulator. Left the bike with them, had the part flown in, new gel battery installed (Shorai dead soldier) and gave them two weeks to resolve it. OEM regulator did not resolve the issue, so I went back down, picked up the bike and drove three hours back home and had an OEM stator shipped in overnight. Figured we had everything new so let's get the bike the next day and head to White Rock, AR. Get there, behaves perfectly normal for 8 miles, then I'm pushing it back to camp. Charge the battery and it'll do fine for 8 - 12 miles depending on charge level.
I called the Springfield, MO Husaberg mechanic who seems pretty darned sharp and he provided me the following - thought it might also be of interest.
He says to run the bike with the new stator unplugged and I should see 44 volts being generated in comparison to his test of the original stator which was only showing 26 volts - which is why I flew in the new stator. Said to run a continuity test from each of the three leads from the stator to ground and if any show a completed circuit, the new stator is bad. Said to test the three leads and I should find .3 - .5 ohms. If those all show no fail, then the problem is elsewhere.
He said all that was left other than the regulator, battery and stator was the wiring to/from each component. When new, I wrapped the harness in used inner tubes, wire tied them for protection, used a heat reflective foil under the tank (that stoped the gas from boiling - could hear it when new), and wrapped the exhaust from end-to-end with NASA level heat wrap. The wiring tested out fine from a resistance and from a ground perspective - according to the mechanic who I do not believe would lie to me. He says there are no other relays, switches, etc in the charging circuit. However, I disagree - the keyed switch is in the circuit, so that has to be considered at this point as does anything else, right?
With that history and before I start testing parts, is there a history of failed new OEM regulators or stators? Is there something, anything someone can suggest given I've already spent $750 between two dealers and still have a downed machine? Has our Berg community seen this before and if so, what did we find?
Final question - if we/I determine the new OEM stator is faulty, would there be an aftermarket group I should instead spend the coin with that will give me a Captain America stator instead?
Guys - thanks for your help in advance!
Kirk
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