This may have been beefed over already on the forum I haven’t dug too deep to check. :mrgreen:
But I’ve got a specific problem and I wondered if anyone else had encountered it.
]We all know that removing the tank is a process compared with older models, but were not bitchin because its such a stunning bike.
I put 'Force' radiator guards on . The front panels fit good .The side profiles abut the bottom corner of the tank in an open < shape. You cannot remove the tank with out removing the side panels of the radiator guard, another 3 screws.
This is after removing the plastic side panels screws and the 8mls at the bottom of the plastics, removing the breather, the nut to the frame at the top of the tank disconnect the fuel hose(that’s the best bit that’s so well designed) ,removing the pump connector by the top of the fuel hose and the one at the rear of the tank. Then attack the sub-frame with the star tool, disconnect sub-frame, pull the rubber boot out from the tank and lift off lift of tank. By that time the Mrs. has come in and told u dinners up and leave the maintenance till tomorrow. :shock:
Just to note I contacted the Team at 'Force' (Australia) and got a good response but there answer was basically the design was based on saving the radiators from impact and not in regard to removing the tank. My solution I cut off the part of the profile stopping tank removal.
Finally the PROBLEM,= removing the sub frame, the bolts in the middle go into threaded alloy inserts that go through the top of the plastic tank. When the bike is new the fit of these bolts into the inserts was quite tight so I was under tightening them. One in particular. Well I couldn't remove that one lately . The insert just rolls with the nut . I found that on alloy threaded insert there is a cut section on the out side that allows a 12mm spanner to stop it from rolling so that’s how I the bolt out. Wondering do you reckon should re bond or try and glue the thread back into its spot on the tank or are they designed to get a spanner in there if they roll .The bikes still under warrantee.
But I’ve got a specific problem and I wondered if anyone else had encountered it.
]We all know that removing the tank is a process compared with older models, but were not bitchin because its such a stunning bike.
I put 'Force' radiator guards on . The front panels fit good .The side profiles abut the bottom corner of the tank in an open < shape. You cannot remove the tank with out removing the side panels of the radiator guard, another 3 screws.
This is after removing the plastic side panels screws and the 8mls at the bottom of the plastics, removing the breather, the nut to the frame at the top of the tank disconnect the fuel hose(that’s the best bit that’s so well designed) ,removing the pump connector by the top of the fuel hose and the one at the rear of the tank. Then attack the sub-frame with the star tool, disconnect sub-frame, pull the rubber boot out from the tank and lift off lift of tank. By that time the Mrs. has come in and told u dinners up and leave the maintenance till tomorrow. :shock:
Just to note I contacted the Team at 'Force' (Australia) and got a good response but there answer was basically the design was based on saving the radiators from impact and not in regard to removing the tank. My solution I cut off the part of the profile stopping tank removal.
Finally the PROBLEM,= removing the sub frame, the bolts in the middle go into threaded alloy inserts that go through the top of the plastic tank. When the bike is new the fit of these bolts into the inserts was quite tight so I was under tightening them. One in particular. Well I couldn't remove that one lately . The insert just rolls with the nut . I found that on alloy threaded insert there is a cut section on the out side that allows a 12mm spanner to stop it from rolling so that’s how I the bolt out. Wondering do you reckon should re bond or try and glue the thread back into its spot on the tank or are they designed to get a spanner in there if they roll .The bikes still under warrantee.
