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2010 FS570 coolant in radiator boiling over.

Joined Dec 2010
26 Posts | 0+
australia
yesterday i was riding to work and all of a sudden alot of steam came up from the head, the radiator overflow tube was dropping coolant all over the head.

in the 6 months (summer) i have owned the bike this has never happened before.

when i got the bike home i waited until she had completely cooled down, then proceeded to inspect the coolant.

i removed the radiator cap and inspected the coolant it sat just above the core (normal) i then started the bike with the cap off and immediately coolant rose way over the top of the core and was forced out of the radiator filler.

the is not right the coolant should just sit at the normal lever until she really heats - after riding for some time.

what would be causing this abnormal pressure to force all the coolant out the radiator cap filler hole.

so with the radiator cap back on this symptom which occurs immediately when the the bike starts is forcing the coolant out of the overflow tube.

(i know alot of people talk about fitting the fan but i have had no need to yet and i have been commuting on the bike all summer) and in this case this is clearly not the issue.

can anyone shed any light on what is causing this problem?

cheers.
 
sorry to hear your plight. My instincts say head gasket but thats just a guess. Keep us updated.
 
Hi synesthesia570,

Have you fixed the problem?
Beacuse it is happening to me as well.
Exactly the same.

It happened to me just after I installed the Evans coolant.
Before the evans, non a single drop came out of the overfill hole, only when the coolant boiled.

But now, with the Evans, just after the engine is started, totally cold I can see liquid coming out of that hole.
I have tried with lower level of coolant, higher level, with or without radiator cap, and I can see that the coolant level is getting higher with a lot of small bubbles, and everytime I rev the engine up sudently the coolant wants to scape from the radiator.

Has anyone any idea?
 
Has the 70º engine a bleed screw?
How can I bleed the coolant circuit?

Those really small bubbles can indicate a head gasket problem?
 
hey dude, I have been down this road with my 09. I had a leaky head gasket and then water pump seals installed back to front from the factory. Sounds like your head gasket, you need a copper gasket.
 
Head gasket...?

What a hell...!

How come with only 2000 kms the head gasket can be damage???

How much does it cost?
 
Sorry to hear that dude, I feel your pain. The factory multi layered steel head gaskets are rubbish. I had problems with mine @71 hours and opted for a copper unit from Valley Force Husaberg in Victoria, Australia. User gazza on here runs a fleet of rally bergs and has seen ten or more fail between the laminate, mine allowed chamber pressures to escape directly into the coolant passage.

SCE in the states make a copper gasket as well. The aussie gasket cost me $52 AUD
 
Thanks berglsmerg,

Do you know if it is really complicated to change that gasket? I mean, do I need any special tool or anything?

Mine has only 60 hours and 2000kms. Can be covered by the guarranty?

The symptom of havin a damage head gasket is without the radiator cap to see a lot of small bubbles on the coolant?
Can be as well smelling a bit of oil the same problem?

What can be the reason of damaging a head gasket?
 
no special tools are required and its not too complicated, if you are competent enough to change piston rings then a head gasket is no trouble.

The gaskets fail between the laminated surfaces of the gasket, they are just a poor design.
 
Thanks.

Can the bubles on the coolant be for any other reason? because the bike runs like new. Has the same power as new. Stars at the first attemp always, perfect idle....!
Can I make any other check to know if it is the head gasket?

If the head gasket is the real problem, can any damage happen to the engine if I go for a ride?

What can be the reason of damaging a head gasket?

Cheers.
 
You could remove the spark plug and pressurize the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester and watch inside the cylinder to see if coolant goes in there, or if you cant see in the cylinder you can leave the pressure on it for ten mintues or so then bump the start button with the plug out and see if coolant shoots out the spark plug hole, or put something down through the plug hole like a dipstick and check for coolant on it. if you didnt have a pressure tester some autopart stores may rent you one, or you could take it to an auto repair shop, its not there specialty but there tool will work, there charges should be minimal for the test as they arent doing anything except attaching there tool and waiting as long as you have the plug and stuff out already...

basically if the cylinder pressure is escaping into the cooling system via the head gasket causing the bubbles than pressurizing the cooling system would make it leak into the cylinder via the head gasket, get it?

the maximum pressure is listed on the cap, 1.4 bar? which is equivalent to 20 psi? or something, you should not need to apply more than 8-12psi to the system for the test or risk causing a leak, also if the leak is really bad and the coolant fills the cylinder rapidly then you hit the start button you run the risk of causing engine damage if the cylinder were very full of coolant, generally one would look into a cylinder that they cant see straight into with a boroscope, i assume if you dont have a pressure tester you also dont have a boroscope though...end of disclaimer....good luck
 
Bergini, thanks for the explanation.

Yesterday I went for I ride, the bike was again throwing a bit of bubbles-coolant by the tube that is on the top of the right rad, where the rad cap is, but not too much.

Went back home. Checked the coolant level when it was cold, with the bike totally leveled, was just touching the top of the internal plates, a bit low according to the manual.

With the cap removed I started the engine and let it warmed up, then I saw again this really small bubbles going on, and the coolant level came up a little bit, but this time didn´t go out. I installed the cap on again, reved up the engine and no coolant or bubbles came out of the tube.

So I think the problem was that the coolant level was too high and was overflowing, because I have intalled the Evans coolant to the level of 10mm higher than the internal plates (as per manual), and I think this is too much for the Evans, because the density of the Evans is higher than a water based coolant, and when the temp is getting higher the coolant is getting "bigger". Then I need to keep the coolant level a bit lower in order to don´t overflow.
Now with the coolant level a bit lower looks like it is not throwing away any coolant any more.

I have a KTM exc 250 2 strokes, and with the water based coolant at 10mm level, cap removed, I started the engine, warmed up, and I saw the same small bubbles runing the coolant, so I think those bubbles are normal, are due to the quick movement of the liquid inside the circuit.

As a conclusion, I think that if I install a water based coolant, I can put it to a level of 10mm higher than the plates, as per manual, because of the lower density, and with the Evans I have to keep the level lower in order to don´t overflow.

This is my humble idea.

Please correct me if I´m wrong.

The people using Evans, please, what level of coolant do you have?
Did you have any overflow issue due to high level?

Thanks.
 
What is really the problem with the head gaskets, and under what condinitions? As I have not heard problems with enduro or sm guys.

MLS gaskets are usually the best possible gasket material to use. Does the Berg gasket gets torned down or will it start to move around slightly? I am building my motor and going to re-use the old gasket if it's MLS, maybe spray down thin coat vht copper head gasket spray to make it bite better as it acts like some sort of glue when the stuff drys on.

Used it on my 250k km diesel mercedes that blew the gasket around water jacket, because it shifted it's position slightly and coolant was dropping near 5th cylinder.

Guys here run that stuff with good experience. 45 psi boost in old diesel mercedes and +500hp and no more head gasket problems. :D
 
Rjohn, I think this screw is only for draining the coolant, not for bleed.

Finally I drained the Evans coolant, and installed a normal water-based coolant, and suddenly no loosing any single drop of coolant anymore. I could be with the engine started at idle for 10 min and no overheating and no boiling or no coolant over the overflow tube. Perfect.

I have been riding like this for about two months, everything normal and no overflow.

But last ride I had again some overflow, no overheating, just coolant on the overflow tube. I saw it riding on the road at 80 km/h on 6th gear, that means low-mid revs with a high flow of air going trought the rads.
I continued the ride, and was coming a small quantity of coolant out of that tube during the whole day.

I simply don´t understand what is going on.

Does anybody has any idea?

Thnaks.
 
I installed the FX 450 thermostate & hoses in my FE 570 when I purchased it and it has never had any problem!
 
On my 570 I have removed the interior of the thermostate, so it is like not having one.

But I think this improves the coolant flow, and it is not necesary if you not ride in a really cold weather.
 
coronaberg said:
I installed the FX 450 thermostate & hoses in my FE 570 when I purchased it and it has never had any problem!

FX450s (at least mine) don't have a thermostat.
 
UPSguy said:
coronaberg said:
I installed the FX 450 thermostat & hoses in my FE 570 when I purchased it and it has never had any problem!

FX450s (at least mine) don't have a thermostat.
That's correct it's just for smog control. All of my older Husaberg's never overheat as slow as I ride I get bug strikes from the rear. Later JEFF
 

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