2010 FE 450

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Joined
Jun 13, 2009
Messages
35
Location
Orange County California
I keep my bike on a battery tender between rides. Sometimes this can be a few weeks. As you guys may or may not know you have to disconnect the negative while on the tender or the fuel pump will cycle as the ECU sees an excess charge as an attempt to start.

The question is, with the ECU off line for long periods is it necessary to do the 15min run in required to set the EFI parameters?


Talk amongst yourselves.....
 
Interesting, I did not know that, I had a battery tender hooked to my 09 FE450 and never experienced any problems, I'm not saying the fuel pump did not cycle, I just was not aware of this condition. I haven't hooked it to my FE570 yet. Is this a 2010 thing or would it be something that effects both years? I would think the answer to the original question is yes, but it's a 5 min run in at idle for relearning.
Mark @ SOS
 
Yes it effects the 09 fe570 as well. I personally dont think the ECU has to be relearnt. I am presuming it would keep the same parameters if you replaced the battery , for instance.
Anyway , to avoid all that, simply unplug the pump/efi connector before charging and leave the battery con nected.
This is the white connector between the two fuses (no cover), its opposite the negative terminal.
When you have finished charging, simply plug it back in.

Cheers,

Nick
 
Why not just unplug the fuel pump connector under the seat? That's what I do. When you disconnect the tender, just plug it back in before putting the seat back on?
 
All good points fellaz. I went with the un-plug the negative route for a couple of reasons.

1. Did not want to wear out FI connector by pluggin un unplugging it. I realize this is unlikely, but, replacing this plug would be harder and more expensive than the fasteners in the battery.

2. I would rather have all the electrics off line for battery maintenance. I noticed when I just unplugged the FI connector that the rectifier(mounted near head tube on left) would still cycle on and off with a clicking sound.

I think you guys are right though, the ECU should not forget where it was last set.

Thanks....
 
The clicking sound you hear is the power relay.

This situation only occurs during the peaking portion of the newer style battery tender, this occurs when the battery reaches a certain voltage, like 13.2 and then increases and decreases the voltage for a while then it stops.

I have never just left it on there to see how many times the fuel pump will cycle it may only happen a couple of times. Maybe just hook it up and monitor it for a bit and see what happens?
 
The fuses under the seat are very accessible, why not just unplug the appropriate ones?

Thanks for the info, I didn't know the bike did this as I ride mine at least several times a month and will into the winter at least until it starts snowing, which is not very often here - so I don't feel the need to use a battery tender.
 
DaleEO said:
The clicking sound you hear is the power relay.

This situation only occurs during the peaking portion of the newer style battery tender, this occurs when the battery reaches a certain voltage, like 13.2 and then increases and decreases the voltage for a while then it stops.

I have never just left it on there to see how many times the fuel pump will cycle it may only happen a couple of times. Maybe just hook it up and monitor it for a bit and see what happens?

I wonder how the new Bergs would respond to Li Ion batteries, as their standing voltage is ordinarily above 13.2.
 
DaleEO said:
The clicking sound you hear is the power relay.

This situation only occurs during the peaking portion of the newer style battery tender, this occurs when the battery reaches a certain voltage, like 13.2 and then increases and decreases the voltage for a while then it stops.

I have never just left it on there to see how many times the fuel pump will cycle it may only happen a couple of times. Maybe just hook it up and monitor it for a bit and see what happens?

I wonder how the new Bergs would respond to Li Ion batteries, as their standing voltage is ordinarily above 13.2.
 
Young and Tender

I ride at least once a month year round, but, despite that still use a tender. I've got several bikes with batteries more that 5 years old. I believe even for the regularly used bike being on a tender is important to health and longevity.

My version of the tender is beer.

I'm very curious about this Li issue too. I wonder if the system would not cycle until this excess voltage has been used.

On a side note and a bit of a rant. My first ride out on my new FE resulted in a no speed tip over. Normally one of these would result in nothing more than some commentary from my buds. This one crushed my header. No biggy right. Well he damn hings are on back order till the end of Nov. I hope this is not the beginning of a short and painful relationship....
 
RE: Young and Tender

Hmmm, I've dropped my bike numerous times over on its side, and last weekend I even looped it. Nothing but scratches on the plastic. Maybe I've been lucky.

I have dropped it a number of times getting on or off it because it is so tall, I have the tall seat and my left hip doesn't work too well - despite the fact that I am tall (6'6"), I only have a 32 to 33 inch inseam.
 
The service life on a YTZ 7S battery is typically 3 years. I got almost 5 out of mine, and that I got the extra two years by keeping it charged. I don't ride on a once month schedule, sometimes don't ride for more than a month, then will ride 3 weekeds out of 4.

As I mentioned, the newer battery tenders unlike the old ones have a peaking feature, that when charging raise and lower voltage during the charge cycle to help keep the plates from sulphating. My last battery, when it finally died, showed good voltage until you hit the button, and then there was nothing.

Sorry to hear about the exhaust hangers, I caved a right side radiator and they are on back order until 12-7. Otherwise, any other parts I have wanted for my 09 have been readily available. Perhaps, and this is just a guess, the "factory" is trying to keep their "standed" investment down by not having too many parts sitting around and used the bulk of the reserve to put the 2010 bikes together. "I think" the actual production numbers for the 2010 was not decided until late in the season, and from the rumors that I hear, the numbers of bikes being imported to the US has been dramtically increased over the 09 numbers. Again just a guess. Here's hoping hoping your part will come in ahead of schedule.

Have you considered one of those trick looking akro headers from the hard parts? Sounds like a good excuse to add a little bling to your bike.
 
If you guys will give me the p/n's that are on b/o, I will see if we can get them included in an air shipment rather than on a slow boat.
 
Interesting note for the parts number on the stock header. It has been changed from the one in the parts book. So, you will have to get the updated number from Husaberg NA.

Dale, I'm a nut. I have the full Akro system on order and it is of course back ordered till Mid November. I'm getting a new OE header also. I want to have it availible in case I don't like the Akro, or when I sell the bike the Akro stuff will be sold later.

Funny thing on the fall. I also take soil samples from time to time and usually to no consequence. This was a real freak deal. I was riding some tight single track in Baja and literally lost my footing, fell over and landed on a jagged rock. Not only did it crush my header, it broke my CF Akro heat shield and put a hole in my clutch cover. Being a king of trailside catastrophic maintenance I had some MSR epoxy putty to plug the hole so the ride could continue. Needless to say I was shocked at the deal.

I have on order the aluminum skid plate which appears to have a bit more coverage. I have also installed the Hyde Racing clutch cover. Jeezz.
 
Clay said:
If you guys will give me the p/n's that are on b/o, I will see if we can get them included in an air shipment rather than on a slow boat.

Clay,

Thanks very much!!!!!!!!!!

According to my 2009 parts manual the Right side radiator part number is 78035008000

2009_radiators.jpg
 
jbrownmxr said:
Funny thing on the fall. I also take soil samples from time to time and usually to no consequence. This was a real freak deal. I was riding some tight single track in Baja and literally lost my footing, fell over and landed on a jagged rock. Not only did it crush my header, it broke my CF Akro heat shield and put a hole in my clutch cover. Being a king of trailside catastrophic maintenance I had some MSR epoxy putty to plug the hole so the ride could continue. Needless to say I was shocked at the deal.

I have on order the aluminum skid plate which appears to have a bit more coverage. I have also installed the Hyde Racing clutch cover. Jeezz.

Had the same thing happen to me when lately, bike stopped fell over and down a hill, bike barrel rolling after me. Bent the front rotor and bent both radiators, the right one really bad. If I wouldn't have had the hard parts roll bars I'm sure the right side would have been leaking fluid.

Is the Hyde Racing cover the one from Australia?
 
Dale....all b/o's on the rad are suippossed to ship this week to the dealers who have them on order.
jbrownmxer....which dealer did you order your head pipe from? Malcolm Smith?
 
Clay said:
Dale....all b/o's on the rad are suippossed to ship this week to the dealers who have them on order.
jbrownmxer....which dealer did you order your head pipe from? Malcolm Smith?

Thanks Clay!
 

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