torque?
Hello All. Agree with end gap specs. Like the progressive torquing system. Here it comes; Surely one of the best engine builders ever, Rob Muzzy, knows of what he speaks. So, the head and cylinder and cases are honed to perfection, with the flattest surfaces. You do the assembly, and begin to torque head nuts. You go up in 5 ft lb increments. (Rob used ONE lb increments on all the STRESSED super bike engines) His issue is, if you go beyond about 29 ft lbs all your hard prep work goes out the window. The head easily warps at the hold down studs and you get wavy cylinder and head surfaces. He found 28 ft lbs was enough for all his aluminum engines. He ran them harder than we can imagine. My own research can not fault this. I found aluminum wheels do the same thing beyond OE specs. While we are at it, you might want to avoid any oil on bolts or nuts. The reduced friction the oil provides, causes torque to be higher than the calibrated wrench indicates. Just clean all the threads carefully. I like to wire brush to ensure threads are clean right to the bottom. Followed by shot of brake cleaner spray. Then I know there is zero lube remaining to mess up my torque numbers. Note: cover all engine surfaces before furiously wire brushing studs or blasting cleaner spray.
By the way, what the heck are the Husaberg OE torque numbers? Don`t tell me, they used 40 ft lbs, right? Gawd.
Good luck, L
