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2009 FE570. Setup help needed.

Joined Dec 2008
279 Posts | 0+
Bucks. region ,South East UK
Hi, I need some help from you guys to get in the final ball park with this bike.
Did second race yesterday, a 4 hour with a good mix of terrain inc. woods tight and more open grassland, whoops, hill climbs, mud, roots.
Just to update, i am 98-100 kg. with race gear,have gone for .46 springs in front and 80/250 rear, sags set to 35/112 (full tank). Had a complete revalve of shock and forks.
Settings all at standard for race.
The good things are, the revalve makes for a plusher ride, absorbs all the trash below nicely with no more harshness in the mid stroke of forks. The flickability, weaving thro slalom type stuff and quick change of direction are also superb.
Problems i want to resolve are the front steering is razor sharp, too quick and oversteering in the tighter stuff and when hitting 180 dgree turns, need to calm it down.
The back end is skittish, does a little dance when at speed on open stuff, predictable but a bit unnerving , i know it can be a lot more stable than this. The back also kicks a bit over whoops where sharp lips and crests are.
As far as the front forks, iwent to 24 clicks out on the comp and it still shows over 50mm of available travel at the end of the race.

My thoughts for the front are to change geometry by dropping fork tubes abot 4/5 mm so they are near to flush with top clamps ?
Do i need preload with the heavier springs? maybe set these to zero, soften a cick or two more on comp as long im not bottoming out. Not sure which way to go with rebound ?

My thoughts for the back are to drop the preload a 1mm and soften sags back to 38-40/115-120 as it felt better there to me. couple more clicks out on comp and increase rebound a two clicks ?

I know to do all that in one shot would just confuse the issue, thats why i need help for where to start and what order to go in.
Maybe you have already done some of the above and found it works well or maybe made it worse.
Any info would be appreciated to get this baby tuned in.

Cheers,
Nick
 
NKW570 said:
Hi, I need some help from you guys to get in the final ball park with this bike.
Did second race yesterday, a 4 hour with a good mix of terrain inc. woods tight and more open grassland, whoops, hill climbs, mud, roots.
Just to update, i am 98-100 kg. with race gear,have gone for .46 springs in front and 80/250 rear, sags set to 35/112 (full tank). Had a complete revalve of shock and forks.
Settings all at standard for race.
The good things are, the revalve makes for a plusher ride, absorbs all the trash below nicely with no more harshness in the mid stroke of forks. The flickability, weaving thro slalom type stuff and quick change of direction are also superb.
Problems i want to resolve are the front steering is razor sharp, too quick and oversteering in the tighter stuff and when hitting 180 dgree turns, need to calm it down.
The back end is skittish, does a little dance when at speed on open stuff, predictable but a bit unnerving , i know it can be a lot more stable than this. The back also kicks a bit over whoops where sharp lips and crests are.
As far as the front forks, iwent to 24 clicks out on the comp and it still shows over 50mm of available travel at the end of the race.

My thoughts for the front are to change geometry by dropping fork tubes abot 4/5 mm so they are near to flush with top clamps ?
Do i need preload with the heavier springs? maybe set these to zero, soften a cick or two more on comp as long im not bottoming out. Not sure which way to go with rebound ?

My thoughts for the back are to drop the preload a 1mm and soften sags back to 38-40/115-120 as it felt better there to me. couple more clicks out on comp and increase rebound a two clicks ?

I know to do all that in one shot would just confuse the issue, thats why i need help for where to start and what order to go in.
Maybe you have already done some of the above and found it works well or maybe made it worse.
Any info would be appreciated to get this baby tuned in.

Cheers,
Nick

Hi Nick

From my experience with the 09s, we are finding the suspension balanced, so to go bigger on springs, we are going 46/76 and 48/80. You are likely on teh balance point between the two bigger settings. Your oversteering issue would certainly be caused by soft spings ( in comparison to the shock spring ). Is it possible that the stiff rear is to harsh on compression and not travelling on the bumps when it skips out??

just my 02

cheers

fry
 
RE: Re: 2009 FE570. Setup help needed.

i think you should have a look at the *********** suspension web site for their set up information it does sound like your fairly close and reducing the preload slightly on the rear sounds like the way forward good luck i know it's tricky
 
Nick,

I am riding at about 8 or 9kg lighter than you, with 4.6 N/mm springs preload in the middle, 2mm from flush with the forks, 7.6 in the rear.

I would first go right in on the preload and bring the forks flush if it's better you might be better with stiffer springs.The 50mm you are seeing is probably from the bottoming cones, so I would stiffen your front Comp as well.

It is hard to say what clicker settings to use since it has been re-valved but clickers are more effective when in the 0-15 range than when nearly open, if your tuner did not give you a starting point I would set the comp to 15 at both ends, just for a baseline.Then work on your shock rebound 4 clicks at a time to get a rough setting. I also find the HS comp has quite an effect on square edge stuff. My shock is has not been re-valved and I am quit far in on the rebound to get HS control with 7.6@10mm preload.
Give your tuner a call and post his take on the situation, I think we are all still trying to find what works best on the new bike .

Chris
 
it may be worth checking to see if that kicking over sharp bumps is actually bottoming and then kicking? If that is the case high speed compression may help. With the 50mm unused travel, I think you have to get this.....could this be the oil level being too high! I know that if you get that extra 2 inches on woops things would be good.
 
Thanks guys, for all the info so far, you all make valid points, really helpful.
Fry, i think your right on the balance , i would have stuck at 46/76 but it was a borderline thing, once the 76 had bedded, i needed 11-12 mm preload to get sags which is too much IMO hence the 80 which i can achieve with 7mm.
Johny, yeh, its a funny thing with the new bergs, better susp than my ktms straight off, but quite tricky to finally dial in.
Chris, always value your opinion as i know you've done a lot of work on your forks and i was thinking along your guidelines for comp/reb increments front & back and definitely going close to flush in clamps as DaleEO and someone else have had good results.

.....Ok, just spoke to the tuner and fe600racer got me thinking and he is spot on, the oil level is too high! So i made the mistake of softening the comp right off during the race and it made things worse.
So, my starting point is to take out 20cc of oil, increase comp and work from there.

What a great site this is, thanks again.

Nick
 
mmmm.... Sorry to be dumb, but whats the best procedure for lowering the oil level in forks?
Do i need a special tool for the top cap?
Or is it possible to somehow syringe out throught the bleeder hole?

Cheers,
Nick
 
You can get a universal pin spanner/wrench from most hardware shops. They are sold for angle grinders. Get two and you can do all 4 pins together. Loosen off the top clamp first. Get a syringe from a pharmacy (or hospital skip) and some nylon tube from the hardware too and you're set to go.

Steve
 
even better so you can do this more often is to set up like the wp suck bottle. Get a soft drinking fresh water bottle, seal a thin tube into it. Hang it into the fork with the fork cap right off, squeeze the bottle and the oil will bubble in the fork and then get sucked up into the drinking bottle that is hanging down near the fork. The bend in the tube is right at the level you want. Syringes work, but the oil stuffs up the rubber plunger and does not seem to last very often. Coke plastic bottles are not affected by petrol or oil which is interesting in itself. Don't suck too much oil out .... stay away from the minimum oil hight as you need to allow for seals leaking over time etc. Low oil can cause damage etc
 
Yep, the syringe seals can deteriorat. I normally pull them apart after use and clean them out with a squirt of brake cleaner and reassemble with some silicone spray. Also store them half out. If they seize in storage its easier to depress them first then pull out.

Like the squeeze bottle idea too. PET, amazing stuff! Its been suggested that it could also be responsible for the developed world's obesity crisis...

Steve
 
i use the pump and stem from a hand spray wd40 bottle, can use a windex one or they are cheap to buy unused.

put a cable tie on the suction stem at the appropriate height and pump out excess fluid.

the fork cap also comes off if you just undo the prelaod adjuster. not supposed to do that but ive done it hundreds of times wiithout breaking anything. cant say the same for "normal" use of the rear hubs :D
 

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