A couple years ago I bought a 2009 FE 570 from a friend. He said he never had any problems to speak of with it and for the first year I had it neither did I. But after some bad gas in Baja the bike started to have issues. I was on a ride in Foresthill when it got real bad. there was no response when I'd crank on the throttle. So I limped back to my truck and pulled the fuel injector, hooked it to my truck battery to try and open it up and sprayed it out with brake cleaner. I put it back in and the bike ran great for about 30 miles then slowly got worse again until it wouldn't start. Once I got home I took the bike apart, cleaned both tanks out, replaced the in-tank filter and put in a brand new fuel injector. Took it to Mojave and got about 50 miles out of it before it had the same problem. I'm not sure what to do with it now. I've heard that it could be the fuel pump but once it stops running it wont start again even after it cools off, and I've heard with fuel pump issues once the bike cools off all the way it should start again and run until the pump gets hot. when I pulled the tank off last time I saw that it had, what looked like to me, to be a two part fuel pump. It had one pump in the back of the tank right where the fuel line from the rear tank comes in and then it had, what I can only figure must be another pump, at the front of the tank right where the air filter is. If anybody can point me in the right direction on how to fix this issue that would be great. after speaking to 3 different shops the only advice I can get is to bring it in so they can look at it. Nobody I've talked to seems to know anything about the fuel pump, weather its two part or just one, and the only price I got on a new fuel pump was $512 which seems really high to me. Especially when the lady couldn't even tell me for sure if its the pump for my bike or not. Also what's the deal with the two fuel tanks? I like the option for more fuel capacity but the fuel line connector between the tanks is broken and I cant find anyone who sells the connector. In fact every shop I talk to acts like they've never heard of the two fuel tank option and reverts back to the "you'd have to bring it in". Is the duel tanks an after market option? And if so is the tank in the front,(the main tank) the original stock tank or are both tanks after market? Any advice would be great. I'd hate to buy a fuel pump just to get 30 to 50 more miles.
The fuel pump is at the bottom of the tank and the thing at the top close to the air filter is a pressure regulator.
If I were you I would disassemble everything again and clean everything thoroughly. Flush all lines, take the pump apart and so on.
When you assemble everything take care so you don't use the wrong screws and that you don't forget the alu-plate that holds the airfilter rod. If you push a screw through the plastic into the tank you will have a leak and as far as I know it's very hard, if not impossible, to repair this material the tank is made of.
If I were you I would disassemble everything again and clean everything thoroughly. Flush all lines, take the pump apart and so on.
When you assemble everything take care so you don't use the wrong screws and that you don't forget the alu-plate that holds the airfilter rod. If you push a screw through the plastic into the tank you will have a leak and as far as I know it's very hard, if not impossible, to repair this material the tank is made of.
Joined Aug 2009
1K Posts | 346+
Charters Towers, Australia
The part near the air filter is the pressure regulator. Its likely you have a 70 degree racing subframe tank.
The plastic lines inside the tank can kink and develop a hole, perhaps you could t into the fuel delivery line and check the fuel pressure.
Just throwing it out there, some electrical issues develop with heat and wont go away till its stone cold.
The plastic lines inside the tank can kink and develop a hole, perhaps you could t into the fuel delivery line and check the fuel pressure.
Just throwing it out there, some electrical issues develop with heat and wont go away till its stone cold.
Thanks I'll pull it apart again and give it a thorough cleaning. I have replaced the in line fuel filter.
Also when I bought the bike some of the screws that went into the plastic of the tank were stripped. No leaks but still stripped. I did have some success with filling the hole with epoxy putty and running the screw in while the putty was still wet. once it starts to set up I snugged the screw down a little more and it seems to work. You do have to repair each hole every time you take the screw out though.
Would you happen to know how to pressure test the fuel system? I currently cant get the bike running, not sure if that matters.
Also when I bought the bike some of the screws that went into the plastic of the tank were stripped. No leaks but still stripped. I did have some success with filling the hole with epoxy putty and running the screw in while the putty was still wet. once it starts to set up I snugged the screw down a little more and it seems to work. You do have to repair each hole every time you take the screw out though.
Would you happen to know how to pressure test the fuel system? I currently cant get the bike running, not sure if that matters.
If you are talking about that small inline filter inside the fuel hose, make sure it's not black but gray. IF you really want to use it... The black was installed in 2012 models and was 10 micron. In heat they got swollen, restricting the flow. So KTM gave us the grey version. It's 15 microns.... Cheap solution I would say.
I change mine out to a golan micro filter, 10 micron. Between the small KTM filter or nothing, I would go without. I have personally no trust in those small plastic bits of ****.
If you are talking about the fuel filter inside the tank, that is a good thing to change out if you have had a batch of really bad fuel. And as berglsmerg already mentioned, make sure there's no leaks in the fuel hoses inside the tank and that no hoses are kinked. Both can happen quite easily.
A question; when you did open up the injector with 9V and blew air through it, what direction did you blow? I always blow the air the opposite way of the fuel flow. My thought is that if the injector is partly clogged with particles and what not, they have to be pushed back the way they came in.
There is a fuel pressure gauge that is hooked up in between the quick connect on the fuel hose. I guess it wouldn't be too difficult to make on if you are a bit handy, or buy one if you have money laying around doing nothing.
An easy way to hear (!) that pressure is building up is to quickly push the start button. Then you should hear the fuel pump start and then stop when there is pressure in the fuel hose. Best is to do it when there's no pressure in the system (after a long paus or after bleeding of the pressure from the quick disconnect on the fuel hose).
What you also can do is to remove the injector and hook everything up again to the fuel hose and tank. Hold the injector in place and point it toward a bucket. When you push the start button you will see how the fuel is delivered. Should be a fine spray coming from all small holes.
Then you will also realize that it's no use giving any throttle, like on a carb, as the EFI shuts off the injector if you give gas while starting. So no blipping of the throttle on an EFI
Can be used to drain the cylinder if you happen to flood the system (happened to me once in a crash, very low probability).
Anyway, I digress. But connect it all up and check the spray. If it looks good the problem might be somewhere else.
I change mine out to a golan micro filter, 10 micron. Between the small KTM filter or nothing, I would go without. I have personally no trust in those small plastic bits of ****.
If you are talking about the fuel filter inside the tank, that is a good thing to change out if you have had a batch of really bad fuel. And as berglsmerg already mentioned, make sure there's no leaks in the fuel hoses inside the tank and that no hoses are kinked. Both can happen quite easily.
A question; when you did open up the injector with 9V and blew air through it, what direction did you blow? I always blow the air the opposite way of the fuel flow. My thought is that if the injector is partly clogged with particles and what not, they have to be pushed back the way they came in.
There is a fuel pressure gauge that is hooked up in between the quick connect on the fuel hose. I guess it wouldn't be too difficult to make on if you are a bit handy, or buy one if you have money laying around doing nothing.
An easy way to hear (!) that pressure is building up is to quickly push the start button. Then you should hear the fuel pump start and then stop when there is pressure in the fuel hose. Best is to do it when there's no pressure in the system (after a long paus or after bleeding of the pressure from the quick disconnect on the fuel hose).
What you also can do is to remove the injector and hook everything up again to the fuel hose and tank. Hold the injector in place and point it toward a bucket. When you push the start button you will see how the fuel is delivered. Should be a fine spray coming from all small holes.
Then you will also realize that it's no use giving any throttle, like on a carb, as the EFI shuts off the injector if you give gas while starting. So no blipping of the throttle on an EFI
Can be used to drain the cylinder if you happen to flood the system (happened to me once in a crash, very low probability).Anyway, I digress. But connect it all up and check the spray. If it looks good the problem might be somewhere else.
Joined Aug 2009
1K Posts | 346+
Charters Towers, Australia
From memory about 60 psi.
That strainer in the injector is a good one Jon, I was racking my brain for that one, it has caught people before.
Another shot in the dark, are your valve clearances ok?
That strainer in the injector is a good one Jon, I was racking my brain for that one, it has caught people before.
Another shot in the dark, are your valve clearances ok?
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
Good thread.
From what I've read about the pumps, the bad pumps will deteriorate to the point that they don't even start after cooling down.
What does your pump look like? Color and markigns? If it's the original pump in an '09 - or not a known-good pump - I'd also consider it a likely culprit.
From what I've read about the pumps, the bad pumps will deteriorate to the point that they don't even start after cooling down.
What does your pump look like? Color and markigns? If it's the original pump in an '09 - or not a known-good pump - I'd also consider it a likely culprit.
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