Sabnik and MexMex,
I respectfully disagree with you about the dead battery and the bike not bump starting. The new bike has a 3 phase alternator that is powered by permanent magnents on the rotor or flywheel.
As opposed to a car type system, the berg system does not need electrical power to flash the field on the rotor, nor does the berg system alter the voltage on the rotor through it's voltage regulator to change the flux density to alter voltage output. Voltage output for a given RPM on the berg system is the same, always, and less the demand(s) on the electrical system, the excess voltage is shunted to ground via the voltage regulator.
A beautiful thing don't you agree?
I have seen this before with the XCF bikes where they are bump started, not enough power during electric starting, but as soon as the bike is bumped it fires right up. I am assuming here that the ignition systems are the same between the "X" bikes and the new berg. And that is that the ignition system is dependant on power from the electrical system/battery to work. That's how they were able to go with a slower starter speed and still get the bikes to fire. Contrary to the pinheaded remarks by MXA magazine about the electric start speed had to be slowed down to make the bike start better!!
To a certain extent, the same was true on the SEM ignitioned electric start bikes, as there was a wire going from the switched side of the start button to the ignition coil to give it an extra boost of electricity from the battery during the slow turn over speed of the motor during electrical starting. IE the ignition part of the stator was not producing enough power to the primary side of the ignition coil. So, for any of you whose SEM bikes have trouble starting on the button but start fine on the kicker check the little blue and white wire is intact to the ignition coil. Alas, I digress.
A careful examination of the single line schematics of the current model berg will show you that one of the leads coming from the reg/rect a black white #95 T taps and goes directly to the EFI/ignition module via black/white # 6290 a1123. So, as soon as the motor starts to spin it is supplying power to that module at that point. Further, this black/white wire then becomes #108 and goes to one side of the coil of the power relay, device number K 2. And for clarification, the contacts of the power relay are what connect the battery to the fuse box. The power relay's contacts are only closed when the motor is running, that way any of the lighting or electrical accessories cannot drain the battery while the motor is off. There is a delay in the drop out of the power relay though of about 5 seconds. Again a beautiful thing.
The other lead coming from the reg/rect an orange/white #94 comes off and T's into a couple of different wire numbers. One is 110/111 and drops down to the power relay where it splits, and becomes wire #110 and #111. Wire #111 goes to the other side of the power relay coil that is connected to the black/white #108 and the other is connected to orange white #111. While the motor is running, the potential difference between #108 and #111 energizes the power relay coil, and pulls it in and closes the contacts between the orange/white #110 and the yellow/orange #109.
Yellow/orange #109 goes to the fuse box, and becomes wire 75,76,77, just before reaching the fuse box, and feeds fuses 4,3,1.
Fuse #4 feeds the radiator cooling fan which has a diode in line to keep the fan from back feeding current into the system when it windmills as you are travelling at hight speed-cool huh? Fuse #4 also feeds the speedo, horn, brake light, flasher light.
Fuse #3 feeds the high/low beam, parking light, tail light, license plate light.
Fuse #2 is fed from orange/white that comes from the reg/rect, #78 at this point, and in turn feeds the fuel pump.
Fuse #1 feeds into the EFI control unit.
So what does all this mean? It means you can bump start this bike with a low or dead battery. The degree of difficulty will be determined by how low the battery is. If the battery is too low to turn the motor over fast enough to start, but you get a couple of pulses from the alternator, and there is enough power left in the battery, the power relay will picku up and it will run the fuel pump long enough to build up some fuel pressure. Thus making it much easier to bump start.
If the battery is really low, then it may take a while of the motor turning over before the voltage builds up enough to run things, but, unless the battery is totally flat this shouldn't take long.
I have measured the voltage on my bike shortly after start up, at idle, and it initially charges at 14.7 VDC. With it's 210 watt alternator, the reg/rect seems like it charges aggressively to top the battery off quickly. It seems that Husberg engineered this electric start only bike with the rigors of off roading in mind. So far I have yet to hear of some ones battery going flat b/c of too many starts on the trail. I have seen one instance where the starter solenoid did not want to pull in. Berger was there with a cute little set of jumper cables and we used the bikes own battery to jump direct from the battery to the starter cable and the bike fired right up.
As for me, I'm okay with electric start only. I don't have a hand crank on my car.
And wutstock's problem so far sounds mechanical, or it's bad battery.
