Here is info/chart on the 2005 FC550 stock WP Shim Stack for the Fork and Shock. I lost some clarity on conversion to .jpg
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
most interesting!
how does your FC suspension feel? as i ride enduro i look for plush with good anti-bottoming effect. on the fork compression shim stack; what goes between the last two shims as the chart denotes a gap between an 18 and a 24?
regards
Taffy
how does your FC suspension feel? as i ride enduro i look for plush with good anti-bottoming effect. on the fork compression shim stack; what goes between the last two shims as the chart denotes a gap between an 18 and a 24?
regards
Taffy
Hi
The 24mm diameter shim is a check valve shim for the taper coil spring with nut. I change the spring to a heavier spring and machined a new nut. The 18mm is more of a spacer shim. On the Forks, I did increase the compression damping in the mid stroke to keep from bottoming too hard. When I take my forks apart again; I will post the Fork shim stack changes. The changes to the shock shims, I removed three 44mm shims and I forgot to log the other shims changes. When I diasemble the shock I will measure the new shim stack and post with comments. I am going try the Race Tech WP PDS Telescoping Compression Needle. CLICK HERE
Steve
The 24mm diameter shim is a check valve shim for the taper coil spring with nut. I change the spring to a heavier spring and machined a new nut. The 18mm is more of a spacer shim. On the Forks, I did increase the compression damping in the mid stroke to keep from bottoming too hard. When I take my forks apart again; I will post the Fork shim stack changes. The changes to the shock shims, I removed three 44mm shims and I forgot to log the other shims changes. When I diasemble the shock I will measure the new shim stack and post with comments. I am going try the Race Tech WP PDS Telescoping Compression Needle. CLICK HERE
Steve
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
what standard of rider are you and what experience have you at rebuilding your shock?
i have just had my forks rebuilt with .46s replacing the .44s which had drooped to .43 or .42s . i weigh 210lbs and i was using them with a 1" spacer on each leg to get the sag right.
now i've got them back and i've had them re-valved. i lost 35mm of travel and after a call he told me to remove 15cc of oil. i did that last night. the air gap was 110mm before i started but i didn't check afterwards. i guess i'm nearer the 125mm area now that so many WP forks seem to end up.
you know, all the manuals say 100mm or 110mm and then everyone you talk to runs more like 120-130mm.
what's going on there?
i found that i had three x 5mm spacers on top of each spring. WTF!!! that means depite going up to .46s he still preloaded the springs by 10mm!
anyway i left the preload as is until i test the forks w/ the 15cc of oil.
any thoughts you can give me on this steve?
we haven't had a shock guru on here for a while...
regards
Taffy
i have just had my forks rebuilt with .46s replacing the .44s which had drooped to .43 or .42s . i weigh 210lbs and i was using them with a 1" spacer on each leg to get the sag right.
now i've got them back and i've had them re-valved. i lost 35mm of travel and after a call he told me to remove 15cc of oil. i did that last night. the air gap was 110mm before i started but i didn't check afterwards. i guess i'm nearer the 125mm area now that so many WP forks seem to end up.
you know, all the manuals say 100mm or 110mm and then everyone you talk to runs more like 120-130mm.
what's going on there?
i found that i had three x 5mm spacers on top of each spring. WTF!!! that means depite going up to .46s he still preloaded the springs by 10mm!
anyway i left the preload as is until i test the forks w/ the 15cc of oil.
any thoughts you can give me on this steve?
we haven't had a shock guru on here for a while...
regards
Taffy
I race 40+ Intermediate class and when I race with the 30+ intermediates, I usually place in mid pack. My experience with suspension is small. I do all my own rebuilding with the advice of my suspension tuner Palo Verde Suspension who I have know (John) for several years. I am in the same weight range as you. 8O It appears you have the correct fork springs; the same as I have-just install not had a chance to test yet. The 2005 stock spring Spacer is 7mm (5mm+2mm). I put the adjustable fork caps on and again not had a chance to test.
The oil level is more of fine tuning the stroke to bottoming affect. Yes, compression damping does similar, but we are watching the harshness at just 76mm to 100mm before the forks bottom. If the forks bottom too easy regardless of changing the compression settings, raise the oil level or decrease the air gap. On-the-filp-of-the-coin, if it is too harsh at bottom then lower the oil level. I am using 5wt. oil. I think my oil level for now is 115mm. But that will change with the .46 springs. The manuals settings are always a starting point and not the final set point for you or me. The most difficult part with suspension is testing the changes you made. Honestly, it takes me a year to get my suspension set perfect for me. I learn this from my 97 KTM620SX and 01 KTM250SX. I can tell you suspension is the most importance change you can do to you bike. With good suspension modification, I have gone from last place to middle pack and with better adjustments to first place!
Finally, test and test your bike.
I hope this helps.
Steve
The oil level is more of fine tuning the stroke to bottoming affect. Yes, compression damping does similar, but we are watching the harshness at just 76mm to 100mm before the forks bottom. If the forks bottom too easy regardless of changing the compression settings, raise the oil level or decrease the air gap. On-the-filp-of-the-coin, if it is too harsh at bottom then lower the oil level. I am using 5wt. oil. I think my oil level for now is 115mm. But that will change with the .46 springs. The manuals settings are always a starting point and not the final set point for you or me. The most difficult part with suspension is testing the changes you made. Honestly, it takes me a year to get my suspension set perfect for me. I learn this from my 97 KTM620SX and 01 KTM250SX. I can tell you suspension is the most importance change you can do to you bike. With good suspension modification, I have gone from last place to middle pack and with better adjustments to first place!
Finally, test and test your bike.
I hope this helps.
Steve
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
steve
we sound VERY similar!
i undid the compression 7 clicks and wound-up the rebound by 6. i did this to see what was stopping the bike from using it's full stroke. i now know that it's probably the oil stopping full stroke and the reduction of oil is hopefully the cure.
i have found the forks to be nice so far. plush without bottoming out. just as i asked for! the suspension man though isn't to know where i'll bottom out so i have removed the oil and can come back on the compression clicks a few to help.
i will see about the preload. i can tell you, having had it measured infront of my eyes that 5mm is the gap and any more is preload on the springs. i can also test this sometime if the oil isn't the cure!
so what spring do you run on the rear? is it a straight rate or dual?
regards
Taffy
we sound VERY similar!
i undid the compression 7 clicks and wound-up the rebound by 6. i did this to see what was stopping the bike from using it's full stroke. i now know that it's probably the oil stopping full stroke and the reduction of oil is hopefully the cure.
i have found the forks to be nice so far. plush without bottoming out. just as i asked for! the suspension man though isn't to know where i'll bottom out so i have removed the oil and can come back on the compression clicks a few to help.
i will see about the preload. i can tell you, having had it measured infront of my eyes that 5mm is the gap and any more is preload on the springs. i can also test this sometime if the oil isn't the cure!
so what spring do you run on the rear? is it a straight rate or dual?
regards
Taffy
Hi
After setting the Race Sag, I notice the stock spring 80 N/mm-250 was on the limit of being too soft for my weight. I installed the 84-250, and I have not tested it. Husaberg and KTM recommend using the Straight Rate springs-250mm lengths for the 2005. The Progressive Springs 260mm lengths are the PDS-4 type. The rear shock is has two pistons, low and high speed on compression and rebound damping.
It looks like your going in the right direction with the new springs and damping adjustments.
Steve
After setting the Race Sag, I notice the stock spring 80 N/mm-250 was on the limit of being too soft for my weight. I installed the 84-250, and I have not tested it. Husaberg and KTM recommend using the Straight Rate springs-250mm lengths for the 2005. The Progressive Springs 260mm lengths are the PDS-4 type. The rear shock is has two pistons, low and high speed on compression and rebound damping.
It looks like your going in the right direction with the new springs and damping adjustments.
Steve
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
dry wit from a yank! not bad tuts but nobody else from your side of the pond would get it! good to hear from youy (though a little breif even for you!) if you buy anything from ebay on this side of the pond and need a hand-just holla!
steve
is the 'word' that 'straight rate' is better? i don't think it is.
do let me know how you get on with that spring. i noticed that the standard spring has been compressed from 260mm down to 246-248mm. is this partly tiredness/age? should a spring lose it's quality? i wouldn't have thought so! yet i've set what i thought was the sag about 5 times over 4 years and it has compressed the spring a bit more each time!
regards
Taffy
steve
is the 'word' that 'straight rate' is better? i don't think it is.
do let me know how you get on with that spring. i noticed that the standard spring has been compressed from 260mm down to 246-248mm. is this partly tiredness/age? should a spring lose it's quality? i wouldn't have thought so! yet i've set what i thought was the sag about 5 times over 4 years and it has compressed the spring a bit more each time!
regards
Taffy
tuts
Nothing but the best, 2005 Husaberg FC550, (I updated my signature and it crashed).
taffy
The earlier bikes 2000 to 2004(?) used the Progrssive wound sprnigs and they seem to work best. The 2005 went to the Straight wound springs (rear Shock) and probabley due to the valving changes on 2005 KTM/Husaberg models. Race Tech has FAQ's on the PDS CLICK HERE. That 260mm spring is worn out, and yes springs will wear and lose its quality.
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