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2005 Husaberg FS650E WP Forks

Joined Sep 2007
782 Posts | 291+
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Hello from downunder :D, I am a new comer to the world of Husabergs. I have had the 650 for about 4 months now and like it very much :wink:. This site is great with all the info that is available. After a few rides on the bike I came to the conclusion the suspension was not set up right, on inspecting the clickers I found that the previous owner had wound them up to the max. After resetting to the manual things were better, but the front still seemed to hard so I have dissembled the forks to check on how much preload is on the spring. The manual for the 05 says zero preload for the fs model . I checked the Owner`s Doc and it shows how to check the preload by assembling the rod, spring, spring cap and cartridge on the bench with no packing I have done this with the compression adjuster backed right out, and the spring is under about 10mm compression. ( spring length = 485mm, from inside of spring cap to spring seat =475mm with adjuster wound right back.)This is not including 15mm of spacers and 4.5mm of preload that was on the adjuster. So I reckon there was about almost 30mm of compression on the spring. I am not sure if the 15mm of spacers were not added by the previous owner, without these there is still 10mm compression, I will not be putting the spacers back in 8O I also noticed on refilling one litre of oil is not enough. Anyway will have to wait to Tuesday to get some more. Am looking forward to ride again to see if it makes a difference. If anyone can confirm these conditions with bike I would be interested to know. Fork model #14457A03 Cheers and thanks for a great site, Harvey.
 
Even 10 mm of spring preload sounds like too much for my ears. I have the 43mm fork with preload adjusters. Having tried different settings I ended up at 3 mm of preload. I can't tell the difference of settings between 0 to 4 mm, but much more than that and I'm not happy. Not that 5 to 6 mm would be unrideable. The springs are not exactly the same lenght so they throw in different spacer washers at assembly to compensate for it. I don't know how much spring preload your fork is supposed to have. It takes about a liter to fill both 43 mm forklegs but I always overfill and waste some oil so in the end I think about 1.2 liter is used. If the oil is relatively new in the fork and I want to do adjustments, whatever needs adjustment is taken out without draining the oil. There is a description on how it is done in this thread http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=54519#54519 . Maybe you'll not succeed to do it the first time but you'll eventually figure it out. If it's only the base valve that needs adjustment the entire bike can be turned upside down and the oil won't run out when you remove them. The bike is used for enduro only.

Regards.
 
Hi Smorgasbord, Thanks for the reply, the owners manual for the 05 fs says zero preload, the 06 fs manual says 22mm??? The only way I am going to get less than 10mm is if I take the interm. ring, part 39 in the part pdf out (It has 3 legs)and put a flat washer in. Part 36 could also be removed.(2,5 plastic flat washer) These are found at the base of the spring. Would bring the preload down to about 3-4mm. Not sure if these should be changed?
 
Well I have been out for another test ride today, and all a bit better, but still to hard for the ridding that I do. I have 10mm compression on the springs but think I may be able to reduce it to 4mm by modifying the bottom washer , then softening the rear to suit. Means pulling the forks apart again. Will report back latter with results. I ride on winding hills roads(sealed) with an average surface quality not doing any major jumps so don`t need big suspension.
 
HELLO, I have the pre lode on the forks down to 6mm now by modifying the bottom 3 legged washer and removing the above plastic washer. Haven`t been for a ride yet but when I sit on the bike it sag equal front and back. It is a long way from how it was set up when I got the bike. Feels good , might ride tomorrow let yous know how I go.
 
Well i have been out a couple of times now and it all good, much better now no more harshness. Fine tuning from now on.
 
Have backed the compression and rebound off about 5 clicks from factory setting with good result. Front wheel no longer feels heavy over bumps. I have changed the steering stem offset from factory 16mm to 18mm but will change it back as the bike seems to turn in to curves too quickly, putting me of line this is my biggest problem at the moment. Have no pushing in corners that is often talked about since softening front springs. Also took a look at swingarm bushings, they had .1mm clearance on the bolt made some new ones that have no clearance,No weaving under power now. Made the OD 22.03 also.
 
clever stuff harvey

i remember that they had the same trouble on the first GSXR1100Rs in the eighties. bike had a weave so bigger pins were made - weave stopped.

as the doc says - up to around 6mm preload is said to be the 'sweet spot'.

i wish i could help you with suggested shim stacks etc but we have virtually no information on SM suspension here. we can perhaps point you in the right direction though....

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy, I learn t about weave and how to cure on a z1 years ago. Not sure why the berg had so much spring preload to start with, can only think it has something to doing jumps? maybe. I have no idea on how to adjust shim stacks and what that would achieve but any advice would be looked at. When I had the forks apart noticed that the shim stacks were staked over so I didn`t investigate further. Oh the 5 clicks I backed the adjusters off was only a guess as it occurred to me that with less spring I might require less compression and rebound. Feel free to correct my thinking if I have that wrong. Thanks Harvey.
 
Great results! The softening of spring s was by softening preload and not by replacing springs, right? Don't you have needle bearings in the swingarm?
What fork oil do you use and what temperatures do you normally get in adelaide on days when you are out riding?
It is quite easy to fine tune cornering on track by adjusting preload on the shock. It is surprisingly easy to do on a Husaberg and doesn't even take a minute once you get the knack of it. Carry an allen wrench (hexagonal) to undo the clamp screw on the shock preload adjuster nut, heave up and balance the bike towards yourself, with the the kickstand and front wheel on the ground and rear wheel in the air, bend over the seat and grab the adjuster nut and rear spring with both hands and spin both simultaneously to adjust the shock preload. Tighten the clamp screw (not very hard), get on the bike and feel the difference for yourself. Adjustments as small as 1/12 of a turn (one notch) is a world of difference, once you're around the sweet spot... and there the bike suddenly gets responsive to rider input.

Shim stacks are staked and on the base valve you just unscrew them. the aluminium will give, you tidy them up with a file afterwards. The rebound stack tap stakes must be filed away before you undo the nuts, this will remove a few tenths of the nut height but that is no problem. Use thread lock on reassembly.

Regards.
 
well the preload makes a lot of difference on the smallest bumps - say 1/2" bumps so you get that jarring feeling through the heels of your hands. on a big bump you wouldn't feel much difference.

as you have read no doubt, oil level affects the last part of your travel mostly and rebound.

it's that old story: the best you know is the best you've ridden.

there seems little point in playing further until you know what you want?

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
it's that old story: the best you know is the best you've ridden.

there seems little point in playing further until you know what you want?
That looks contradictive, you dont know what you want until you have played around to see what you can have...

Regards
 
Smorgasbord, still standard springs. I explain in the posts above how I archived 6mm preload.Down from 30mm. There is a bushing that the needle rollers run on. The swingarm bolt goes through the bushing this is where most of the clearance is found. I will experiment with the rear spring as you suggest if changing the steering offset dosen`t help. Taffy, Just went and measured the zip tie on the fork leg and it is down 155mm so I may take some oil out?, there is the occasional bump that jars a bit at speed. The owners manual says front spring travel is 275mm? the zip tie would be squashed at the bottom if it had that much travel. I don`t think 275mm is correct or achievable?
 
The consensus seems to be 130mm oil level in the forks, this is what it is now. I am using Motul 5wt oil. The temp is around 25c this time of year. I have noticed engine performance drop off on hotter days 30c+ air not so heavy I think . Same on my other bike.
 
11" of travel!!!!

thats bollocks!

you may not be getting full travel for two reasons.

too much oil
shimstack is too stronh and simply stops the suspension working.

i suggest that you lay the bike on it's side with the wheel on the paddock stand. pull the compression stack from the base of the fork, measure your shims and write them out.

they tend to put like 5 x 24s at the start and only 2/3 are needed. they affect the first 0-2" of travel. it's a 1-hour job first time and 20 mins when you know what you want to do.

regards

Taffy
 
11" of travel!!!!

thats bollocks! Yeas that is my thoughts also, So the question is how much oil do I remove to get full travel? I should have measured the travel when i had the forks apart I guess. Any idea what full travel might be? Might experiment with the oil first Taffy. Its the easier option.
 
well the first thing i'd do is get a syringe and some pipe (similar to in my photo on the doc) and suck out 30mm which is about the same as 20mm in height from memory (check that fact) and see if it makes a difference.

it could be that it's the shimstack of course.....

but at least your attempting to find out!

i'm off up the pub....

regards

Taffy
 
Well I took the forks off again to turn the steering stem back to the standard setting 16mm offset helped with steering heaps in curves much easier to hold a line, more stable I guess. I try to get out for a least 3 rides before making any judgments, taking the same route With 18mm offset I was turning into corners early. It comes down to riding style I think. I am not racing anyone so I try to pick a nice smooth line. The 18mm offset may be helpful if you need to change line quickly in a curve if other riders are about you??? I would appreciate any comments as I may be wrong here. This is the most adjustable bike I have ever owned and feel I am making progress so far. While I had the forks off I checked the oil level and much to my surprise it was 160mm. I checked the length of tube I sucked the oil from the fork last time and it measured 130mm Is it possible that I did not get all the air out ? Well at least I know it was just bottoming occasionally at the 160mm level. So I have added 20mm and it has not bottomed since. Are!! those shim stacks, now those are are still a mystery to me??? no idea how they work yet!!
 
only three more rides before a proper opinion then!

speak as you find mate....

regards

Taffy
 

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