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2004 FE450 E-start low crank and no start

V

votkarel

Joined Nov 2020
19 Posts | 1+
Romania mountains
I fixed the hot start for my FE450 using the valve adjusments as 0.6 turn .
very easy kickstart now, event not necessary to use the decomp when hot.

But the Estart not work.

Accu is just new , Exide AGM 110 A , i have 2 tried electric startes mitsuba in perfect state .

Starter turn over about 3 -4 seconds till stops, but it seems to have a low rpm and fuel not go inside from the carb due a low rpm.

The spring of automatic decomp need to be exchanged, its weak.

Is this Estart problem due decomp-spring? , or the jetting carb ?
 
My 05 fe450 hasn't had any problems starting with the estart even with an older battery. Will it start with the estart hooked up to a truck battery?
 
I am talkin about hot engine condition, low viscosity .
so, its suppose to be the spring ....
 
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I am back , I changed the Taffy spring, but bike wont start E-start, only kick.

The starter turn engine low rpm so will never start like this.. ( maybe 90rpm /min)

I changed starter, electric cables are ok, i tried adding extra cables from a car batteries for test.


What can be the issue that engine turns so heavy by the starter?

the head engine valve springs are not original, i bought bike like this, can be too strong for camshaft torque ?

What about the one way FRAI bearing? but its not slipping when hot, but slipping when cold.

Valve tappets are ajusted.

Shall try Yamaha R6 starter ? Mitsuba SM-14 its for KTM/Husabeg , MITSUBA: SM14-222 its for Yamaha, what will be the difference of starter toque?
 
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votkarel said:
I am back , I changed the Taffy spring, but bike wont start E-start, only kick.

The starter turn engine low rpm so will never start like this.. ( maybe 90rpm /min)

I changed starter, electric cables are ok, i tried adding extra cables from a car batteries for test.


What can be the issue that engine turns so heavy by the starter?

the head engine valve springs are not original, i bought bike like this, can be too strong for camshaft torque ?

What about the one way FRAI bearing? but its not slipping when hot, but slipping when cold.

Valve tappets are ajusted.

Shall try Yamaha R6 starter ? Mitsuba SM-14 its for KTM/Husabeg , MITSUBA: SM14-222 its for Yamaha, what will be the difference of starter toque?
Click to expand...

-which valve springs are attached?

-if the sprague slips when the engine is cold,it isn´t at its best anymore (the starter clutch could also be a problem,it may be shimmed. though..it has to hold at least 15-20 Nm torque.)

-you say the engine doesn´t turn fast enough...could also be a problem of the starter relais.Check how much current is actually going through to the starter when pushing the start button (also check your battery,although it´s new,for any brutal voltage drop when you hit start)

-the original starter from these years shouldn´t have any problems turning over the engine,the older starters were **** around 2001-2003.

-the Yamaha R6 starter turns the engine over quicker than the OEM starter,it is really only needed for models with the SEM ignition and old Auto-decomp


I hope this helps.
 
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a way to prove that you have the correct tension on the auto decomp spring and also have the correct jetting is to turn the idle down, and down, and down until the engine is trying to stall. if the auto decomp is the correct strength, at this point the ADC will make a clack-clack......clack-clack......clack-clack noise.

maybe one cell is down in the battery. check the battery voltage. there is a black/yellow wire behind the headlamp that must be free and a red/yellow wire behind the radiator.

cheers

Taffy
 
The decomp spring i bought from Taffy , i turned over one time about 360 degrees like in the movie. but the cam of decomp seems a little worn at the top about 0.5 mm . maybe thats the problem

I plugged 2 strong wires at the starter terminal (bypass relay) and connected them at a 700A car battery for test, resulted same rotation .
maybe I am wront for the rpm of starter , i will post an audio wav
 
the early decomp can lose 0.5mm easily (see photo)
the later decomp needs to be 'all the way into the cam'.

regards

Taffy
 

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I found the tip to E-start it in hot engine condition .

I pull decomp lever about 2 cm ,and action the E-start and keep it to rotate engine fast about 1 or 2 seconds and then release the decomp lever to 1cm of the end position (not complete released ), keeping the E-start button to cranck few more times and its starting .

Sometimes I also pull the throttle sleeve a little at the begining of crank but not sure this helps or not , sometimes start fast sometimes i have to cranck 3-4 seconds , or i have to repeat the procedure 2-3 times.
I tried to use the red chocke ( for hot ) , sometimes works but i think its better not use it .

I am 100% sure my autodecomp shaft its worn out of the specs because if i try E-start without the manual decomp the starter will stuck at the begining of crank

Taffy, the autodecomp spring shall i rotate it one time on the shaft (about 180 degrees ) or 2 times or more ? In your movie i seen just one turn over the shaft then lock the spring .

What is the best exhaust tappets play adjustment to help my autodecomp E-start ? 0.10 mm instead 0.20 ?
 
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votkarel said:
I found the tip to E-start it in hot engine condition .

I pull decomp lever about 2 cm ,and action the E-start and keep it to rotate engine fast about 1 or 2 seconds and then release the decomp lever to 1cm of the end position (not complete released ), keeping the E-start button to cranck few more times and its starting .

Sometimes I also pull the throttle sleeve a little at the begining of crank but not sure this helps or not , sometimes start fast sometimes i have to cranck 3-4 seconds , or i have to repeat the procedure 2-3 times.
I tried to use the red chocke ( for hot ) , sometimes works but i think its better not use it .

I am 100% sure my autodecomp shaft its worn out of the specs because if i try E-start without the manual decomp the starter will stuck at the begining of crank

Taffy, the autodecomp spring shall i rotate it one time on the shaft (about 180 degrees ) or 2 times or more ? In your movie i seen just one turn over the shaft then lock the spring .

What is the best exhaust tappets play adjustment to help my autodecomp E-start ? 0.10 mm instead 0.20 ?
Click to expand...

0.20mm play? Way too much.There's your fault.
Like this there's too much clearance between decomp and rocker roller.
0.09-0.12mm is fine.
 
votkarel said:
Taffy, the autodecomp spring shall i rotate it one time on the shaft (about 180 degrees ) or 2 times or more ? In your movie i seen just one turn over the shaft then lock the spring
Click to expand...

If i recall, from the moment the tail is resting on the cam, I have to wind the spring 270 degrees to make the tail-across-the-middle ready to push forwards and over the slit trench.

the point is, the result must make a 'w-h-a-c-k' noise and not a 'f-l-o-p' noise.

Too much clearance means that the decomp isn't working. You must stick to the correct valve clearance.

1/6th of a turn and Taffy's golden rule; you must be able to morse code the rocker arm and hear tick-tick 'only just' at the rear tail light.

cheers

Taffy
 
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