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2003 fe 400 questions

Joined Jul 2019
18 Posts | 1+
Cheltenham uk
Hi all new to this forum my name is Lee from Cheltenham uk!
I’ve recently got myself a 2003? Fe 400 and have a few questions
I would like to ask!
Q1 I’m a little confused on what year the bike actually is?
Engine and frame numbers match with logbook the frame No is
YU7FE4E8430000098 which indicates 2003 I believe?
Engine No is 4013081 which indicates 2004 ??
Can someone please confirm this? Can’t seem to attach pictures
On mobile? Also it has an engraving on head and rocker cover
Which reads 02-3570 could it be I have a 04 engine with 02
Head in an 03 frame?? Confused!

Q2 I am loving the way this bike rides first 4 stroke I’ve ever had
It runs well had a bit of misfire on higher revs which I sorted by
Setting the valves but the engine sounds a little noisy still!
I have no service history with bike so plan to change timing chain
And Tensioner blade although the noisy engine sounds more like
Bearings so looking at changing the top end bearings and maybe
Crank bearings too! Want to know is there a crank stop bolt or is
Just a case of marking everything up with a paint pen and using a
Impact gun for clutch and flywheel etc?

Question 2 is the reason for question 1
I don’t want to buy the wrong parts!

I do have other questions but will start with these!
Thanks in advance for any help Lee h..
 
Engine No is 4013081 which indicates 2004 ??
Can someone please confirm this?

401 = 400cc
3 = 2003
081 = serial / build number

If your bike has a SEM ignition and a Dellorto carb it is a 01-03 model.
If it has a Kokusan ignition and a Keihin FCR carburetor it is a 04-08 model.

The crank lock up was introduced in 2004 I believe.

Husaberg Service Manuals on-forum: Service Manuals - Husaberg Forum
Husaberg Manuals on Google Drive: https://goo.gl/Fa65bn

fs400c-01.jpg


This is the color scheme of a true 2003 model. Notice the ignition cover style as it is for the SEM ignition.

There were not many 2003 models brought into in the U.S. as it was a dark period for us as we had no importer at that time. When an importer was secured the bikes arrived very late and most were sold at a deep discount. A lot of people with a 2002 model think that they have a 2003 and some think they have a 2004 when in fact they have a 2003. During 01-03 the bikes would usually arrive around December or January when they should have hit the shores around August / September. The 03 model is distinctive with the generous amount of yellow used.
 
Thanks for that my bike does have sem ignition and dellortto carb although
Looking at images of other bikes it looks more like an 02 does? Will try and
Put pictures up of bike and engine can’t seem to do it via mobile? My laptop
Is in shop having a new charging port at the moment!

With regards to parts was going to match up the bearings at my local specialist
Going to pull clutch cover later today and try work out if I need to replace the
Mains would prefer not to obviously can’t feel any free play fly wheel side will
Check clutch side this afternoon! Seems a shame to split engine as it runs so
Well but at the same time it don’t sound right a gritty scratching sound just like
Worn bearings!

When I work out exactly what I need I will be in touch cheers Taffy also is there
A gasket for the cases if I do split it? Can’t see any available for sale!

Cheers lee..
 
no, there isn't a crankcase gasket and also, there isn't a cylinder head to rocker cover gasket. use silicon and the best is wurth sabesto rtv silicon sealant in BLACK.

Taffy
 
Thanks taffy will have a good look clutch side this afternoon then post a shopping list of
Parts that I think i need! Also want one of your starter repair kits and maybe your de-comp
Mod too! The bike looks like it already has your de-comp but looks quite worn where it
Contacts the cam!
 
i was racing AND green laning my 400 and I tuned and tuned it. you couldn't ask for a better bike. but at my very last meeting in 2013, I won on it and the guy who won evrall was a young lad on an FE350e Husaberg and he was taking about 5 minutes a lap out of me!

youth and progress....gauranteed to phuq your life up!!!

Taffy
 
Fair play! I’ve had a 2 stroke yz250 for about 3 years I’m now 44 years old and could not
Keep up with my kids kx85 and ktm125 too old! But since moving over to the husaberg
They are struggling to keep up with me which they hate! I’m well happy!

As for my bike I pulled clutch cover and found the tensioner looks to be so far out that the
Chain and tensioner blade are really close to the engine case with a little light scratches
Like the chain has slapped it ever so slightly also my water pump bearing feels well rough
As for the de-comp the wear is next to nothing!

So my plan of action for now is replacing all 4 top end bearings,water pump bearing,cam
Chain and tensioner blade,de-comp spring and relevant gaskets and seals!

Shopping list is
Cam chain , tensioner blade , de-comp spring , oil filter , clutch gasket kit , and also need
Starter repair kit! (Should have my bearings covered)

Taffy I will contact you tomorrow by phone to order these parts if that’s ok! Cheers lee..

Anyone else reading this thread I will post my results when bikes back running!
Nothing worse than a thread with no conclusion!
 
just have a look at your decomp. it should have a slot for the tail of the tensioner spring. if it isn't a slot but a cut out flat-land then it is the old decomp. the old ones have an end profile of a rowing boat, the later ones you want look like a Dutchman's clog on the end.

If you can afford to take the head off and look at the condition of your inlet valves it would be a an excellent thing to do. they tulip and sink into the head due to the original valve spring strength.

the exhaust valve seats often tip over ever so slightly. you can see grey/black/grey as you look around the seat. my customers can NEVER see it!

BTW, the 27mm exhaust valve is too small and I sell 29mm exhaust valves which really pep them up. but that is 'tuning' not maintenance.

If buying CFBs you are meant to try and spot if the CFBs are 7.6mm or 7.8mm. this is difficult and even a vernier gets it wrong....especially in this heat.

Taffy
 
Ok will double check de-comp and take my vernier home from work along with a 7.6 and 7.8 drill bits to make double sure thanks for the heads up!

As for the head I will leave for now as funds are limited but definitely will in the future like the sound of tuning it!

Will be in touch cheers lee..
 
Yes Taffy you were quite right l do have the old de-comp silly me was looking at the weight
Thinking it looks just like a clog! Thanks for that!
Hopefully will start on button when I’m done and sound and possibly run better fingers crossed!
Will order The parts from your website tonight if I can find it all on there!
Cheers lee..
 
Last edited:
Taffy I’ve ordered via your website will ring with payment tomorrow morning! Cheers lee..
 
Update
I’ve finished fitting the new parts which were timing chain, modified tensioner blade, modified de-comp, cam bearings, water pump bearing and starter repair kit!
Along with new oil gaskets and seals etc!

Firstly the engine noise is much better now so well happy with that!

Although the starter repair kit has been fitted and for some reason the starter will not
Turn at all now? I followed the instructions with the sprague spring and the starter clutch
Only took 1 shim to bring into spec! Is there anything I could have done wrong??

Also seems to have more free play on kick starter which is making it hard to catch?

Any help or suggestions would be well appreciated! Cheers lee..
 
My starter is intermittently sticking! I will try to breathe new life into it tomorrow if not
Will go for the R6mod!
As for the kick starter having more free play is it possible to knock it just a fraction off
It’s ideal position? It doesn’t make any noises! But it’s possible I could have disturbed
It???
 
well you are more than likely one spline out on the kickstart arm. let it go on and come further forwards tot he front wheel. you get more kick then.

difficult to think you can have got it wrong inside and yet it still functions. it wouldn't work at all if it was fitted wrong - not that i can think of anyway!

Taffy
 
Last edited:
That makes sense I think I’ve over worried it a bit paranoid I might have to take side
Casing back off and disturb my new gasket and seals and oil etc!

It’s currently running a YUASA YTZ7S battery!
Is that okay or is there an upgrade?

Also can anyone tell me which R6 starter I need?
A mate said he’s got one I can have it’s a 5eb!
Any good?? Cheers lee..
 
I've had excellent luck with Shorai batteries. The LFX14L2-BS12 is what Shorai recommends and I've had great luck with that exact battery across a few bikes - my SV1000 (custom subframe so I didn't have space for OEM), WR450F (2 of them - 03 and 14), and now on the FS570. They last a long time (next to no self discharge): I've been using the same one (first in the SV, now in the WR because I'd rather use the older one in something with a kickstart) since 2012.
 
Thanks for that! The one I have is brand new and it’s up to the job apparently!
Still need to know if I need a specific R6 starter or will any R6 starter do???
 
Ok so I have installed an R6 starter and she now starts straight up with no hesitation cold or
Hot! Well happy a big thanks to Taffy for the starter repair kit and modified de-comp basically if you install these with a R6 starter which only needs 2 new holes drilling and a
Spacer pretty easy! Then your bike should start right up it’s a must!!!
 
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