2002 FE650???

Bought mine, it seized after a couple of 100km's, thing's I've changed on mine:

Tappets, the bearings on the pre 2004 tappets are of bad quality, later style has better bearings.

Cam chain, bad quality change for other year, can't remember what year is the good one, check the doc.

Cam chain follower, the profile changed in 2004, does require cutting of a piece of the cam chain tensioner.

Important one, switched from the stock ball bearing main bearings to roller main bearings, use the search function for 'main bearings' for endless discussions on this forum about wich type of main bearings are the best, guaranteed after reading all this you'll be more confused than ever as to wich type is now the best

Another important one, the balancer bearing on the older bikes was bad, swapped mine with a 2008 balancer wich has better bearings, the bearing is welded into the balancer so you have to swap out the entire balancer instead of just the bearing

Valve springs, stock husa valve springs are very stiff, causing problems with the valves, changed mine to valvesprings from a ktm 450 sx, wich are softer.

Igntion coil, the SEM ignition is crap, have yours rewound by 'sparks' here on the forum, he uses better quality stuff and when you get it back it works a lot better

...

To my own surprise, my 2002 engine hasn't blown up in the last 1,5 years orso so all this info is a bit rusty, if you follow any of my advice, double check all the years and stuff in the doc, it's all in there!


Do a search here on the forum with my username, I have documented my 2002 husaberg saga with all it's ups and downs very well

Good luck!

I reckon that one will be a ratphuq I'm afraid fella.....

when they go west you have got to spend a lot of money on them.

all I can do to help you from here is this: the cost of a truly shagged-out engine to be rebuilt engine is about £1,200 on the bench or £1,400 in the frame. you try and get anything like that off the value of the bike if you can.

allow £800-£1,000 for parts to make it really nice job and add to that what you pay a mechanic.

anything you save on that will be money in your pocket.

typically the big worry is mains or big end shot. it's mains 80% of the time. what they do is sh** the bits of metal onto the wall like a bobby sands protest (you'll have to look that one up) and then the piston grinds the metal twixt piston and liner like dust in your hands. you could live with that but the grinding and seizing forces the liner which is only 5mm thick into an oval shape and anything over .05mm or .002" (two thou) means they can't be re-coated.

what your looking at is:
£260 for a rod kit
£150 for a piston
but look....£260 for the liner

then you add two mains at £100, crank pressed for £60, all the other bearings, cam chain eand all the upgrade parts and well.....there it is.

multiply all the above by 1.6 for the $ on my UK numbers.

good luck either way.

regards

Taffy

i would say you have a main bearing issue as sometimes when they break they lock up and free themselves again as it crunches up the bits of metal from the bearing, unfortunately this usually happens on the counter balancer side and it pushes metal into the balancer bearing ruining that as well. It could be a big end as well.???
I would offer the owner half of what he is asking as it could be expensive if the metal has entered the cylinder as well but in saying that ive repaired them with only a set of main bearings being required.
I have my own bearings which i fit myself and sell ive had no problems with any of the engines ive repaired once they are fitted with the correct crank endfloat. They sell for $110 aud plus post.
I rebuild heaps of these engines for Aussie owners but im a bit far away from you, i would try Boss Offroad or Taffy is still closer to you than me.
ORANGEBERG

ORANGEBERG said:

i would say you have a main bearing issue as sometimes when they break they lock up and free themselves again as it crunches up the bits of metal from the bearing, unfortunately this usually happens on the counter balancer side and it pushes metal into the balancer bearing ruining that as well. It could be a big end as well.???
I would offer the owner half of what he is asking as it could be expensive if the metal has entered the cylinder as well but in saying that ive repaired them with only a set of main bearings being required.
I have my own bearings which i fit myself and sell ive had no problems with any of the engines ive repaired once they are fitted with the correct crank endfloat. They sell for $110 aud plus post.
I rebuild heaps of these engines for Aussie owners but im a bit far away from you, i would try Boss Offroad or Taffy is still closer to you than me.
ORANGEBERG

Click to expand...

I'm not close at all John. so that leaves Boss. I was just trying to give advice so he had leverage.

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

ORANGEBERG said:

i would say you have a main bearing issue as sometimes when they break they lock up and free themselves again as it crunches up the bits of metal from the bearing, unfortunately this usually happens on the counter balancer side and it pushes metal into the balancer bearing ruining that as well. It could be a big end as well.???
I would offer the owner half of what he is asking as it could be expensive if the metal has entered the cylinder as well but in saying that ive repaired them with only a set of main bearings being required.
I have my own bearings which i fit myself and sell ive had no problems with any of the engines ive repaired once they are fitted with the correct crank endfloat. They sell for $110 aud plus post.
I rebuild heaps of these engines for Aussie owners but im a bit far away from you, i would try Boss Offroad or Taffy is still closer to you than me.
ORANGEBERG

Click to expand...

I'm not close at all John. so that leaves Boss. I was just trying to give advice so he had leverage.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

your closer than me, between me you and the Boss we could probably get enough leverage to get him a bike for free
John

ORANGEBERG said:

Taffy said:

ORANGEBERG said:

i would say you have a main bearing issue as sometimes when they break they lock up and free themselves again as it crunches up the bits of metal from the bearing, unfortunately this usually happens on the counter balancer side and it pushes metal into the balancer bearing ruining that as well. It could be a big end as well.???
I would offer the owner half of what he is asking as it could be expensive if the metal has entered the cylinder as well but in saying that ive repaired them with only a set of main bearings being required.
I have my own bearings which i fit myself and sell ive had no problems with any of the engines ive repaired once they are fitted with the correct crank endfloat. They sell for $110 aud plus post.
I rebuild heaps of these engines for Aussie owners but im a bit far away from you, i would try Boss Offroad or Taffy is still closer to you than me.
ORANGEBERG

Click to expand...

I'm not close at all John. so that leaves Boss. I was just trying to give advice so he had leverage.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

your closer than me, between me you and the Boss we could probably get enough leverage to get him a bike for free
John

Click to expand...

LOL!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I think your right on the mid to late 90's..I could be wrong though.. :mrgreen: If I were you, I would find a Nice honda,suzuki or kawi for about $1200 and load it in the back of the truck and hit the trail..I love the new bergs and ktm's but if I were trying to save pennies and was going to buy used, I wouldn't think twice and go find a great deal on a honda XR or crf... That's just me.. Good luck with what ever you decide.. :cheers:

That bike is either a '95 or a '96 model, most likely a '96 - I believe that ugly rear fender was used for only 2 years. I bought a '96 FE501 brand new back then and am intimately familiar with them. The graphics and seat cover on it are after market (from Husaberg) and just like what I put on my bike. The lack of lights and mounting tab for the tail light assembly lead me to believe it is NOT a FE model but rather a FC (motocross) model. Also there doesn't appear to be a kick stand bracket welded on the lower left side of the frame near the foot peg wich also indicates a FC model (earlier ones used a clamp-on side stand). If it is a FE model there will also be a fender loop under the rear fender to support the tail light- the FC sub-frame stops right at the rear end of the side panels. The '97-'98 models had a blue frame and different plastic and a longer seat, the '99 models had a silver frame, and '00-'08 used a completely different frame and '01-'08 had different engine cases. Also '98 and onward came with over-sized handlbars.

BTW, I hated the look of that rear fender so much I bought an aluminum sub-frame, seat, and rear fender for the '97-'98 bikes for mine!

Hope this clears things up!