200 hours! Maintenance Schedule, how important is it????????

hey sculley the shavings you speak of i get themaswell although my bike is a 99 after a bit of research im lead to believe that they are from the cam gear as it is made of alloy in my bike not sure about the 02's tho spose to be able to get a metal one this probaly doesnt help but you never know . and that sucks man about your dealer my dealer at the sunshine coast was going to give me 6 g for my 99 as a trade on a new fe 650 maybe you should try another dealer and get a new bike hope this helps dude


cheers doug

The metal is more than likely the cam sprocket and the tensioner botton.
After going through a few Berg motors I am under the impression that it is perhaps best to leave them alone if you are not getting any strange noises or excessive amounts of metal in the oil. I change the oil no less than every other ride and have adopted an "as needed" approach to the valve adjustments, meaning if it starts good,runs good and is quiet they are O.K..
I just did an 01 470 with perhaps 250 hrs on it. The valves and rings where shot everything else was OK. I still changed out everything anyways.

The valves tuliped (pulled). I had Dale replace them with some one piece stainless units. As far as the cam sprocket, the old style is aluminum and tends to shed metal. The replacement sprocket is hardened steel. The valve problem seems to come from alot of high rpm operation (racing). The guy I bought the bike from raced it and was none too gentle with it (it now has a nice home with a slow rider and abundance of low rpm use )

Gents,

I, too, have consistently had afformentioned issues with metal in oil. I think most of us here do. My cam sprocket IS aluminum. I do think it needs changing. I rebuilt this past winter, complete. Then blew the top end. I had metal throughout the whole process.

Does anyone think that the dirty oil could come from the clutch???

The clutch MUST shed some particulates into the oil. BUT, I'm not sure what they would look like. Anyone have any ideas?

-Parsko

Gentlemen,
It has been my experience that most "slivers" of Aluminum found during an oil change are as a result of cam sprocket wear (pre 03) and / or a loose cam chain shaving the cylinder and engine case.

Parsko,
Early Husaberg engines were equipped with metallic friction disks which greatly increased oil contamination and consequent wear. The smaller displacement Husaberg is often subject to clutch abuse with a consequent increase in oil contamination via friction material be it metallic or organic.

Hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Dale

Re: Berger

Scully said:

Thanks Berger for your thoughts, much appreciated, thats 2 replies after 76 odd viewings, I would have thought people here were abit wiser?

Click to expand...

Not having a go at you Scully, but your posts are a bit daunting to answer because every sentence ends in a question mark! Is that key on your keyboard stuck? :twisted: It just makes it hard to know what exactly you are asking when there are so many questions.

If it helps I will tell you about the problems I've had with my bike and the engine rebuild. When I discovered a lot of swarf in my oil soon after I bought it a mate and I pulled it down and just measured everything according to the manual. I put a new set of rings and replaced all the bearings (including the updated needle roller mains). The head was ported and the valve seats refaced. The conrod was fine so I left it. The roller rockers had already been replaced, and we estimated that the bike had done not much more than about 50hrs if that. The circlip was also missing from the back of the decomp arm on the side of the head.

Looked like the bike had broken a camchain, and this had chewed up a lot of the cylinder head material and this is where the metal in the oil was from. It had a new camchain in it and the tensioner was OK so I just changed the cam bearing. In the end it probably didn't need pulling down but I was paranoid about getting bits of metal through the gearbox etc.

If yours has done over 200hrs I would put a new rod in it for piece of mind, otherwise just all the normal stuff that others have advised, cam sprocket/chain/tensioner, roller rockers, bearings, rings. I priced a rod kit and from memory it was around AUD$650. Here's some of the parts I got for my rebuild.

Head Gasket 200 233-01 $66
Piston Ring Kit 644cc 100mm 200 287-01 $155
Water Pump Shaft O-ring ???
Ball bearing Water Pump 350 013-01 $35.5
Water Pump Seal 350 000-01 $16.9
Camshaft Bearing 360 000-01 $22
Sparkplug $7.95
Gudgeon Pin Clip 644cc 200 254-01 $7.95
Gudgeon Pin 100mm 200 253-01 $67.6
Bushing clutchhub bronze 89- 230 004-01 ??

some other parts/prices
Lower Radiator Hose 150 217-01 $39
Kickstarter engagement Sledge 230 039-01 ~$20
Air Filter 150 166-01 ??
Water Pump Seal 350 000-01 (get 6mm from bearing supp)
O-ring 4x1 01- 340 004-01 $1.80
(oil feed to rocker arms in head)
Spoke (18") rear 00- 140 135-01 $4.00
Screw 8x26 00-(Sprocket Bolt) 140 141-01 $4.95
Manual Decomp cable; 00- 170 078-01 $28.00
Gasket Transmission Cover 01 220 073-01 $18.00
Gasket water pump cover 01- 220 072-01 $7.00
O-ring ignition cover 00- 340 060-01 $1.50

They have new KTM style part numbers now but you can still use the old numbers.

I have also had the problem of the engagement sledge wearing and the kickstarter binding. There is a bit of a knack to getting it back together isn't there? I have also removed the kickstart decomp mechanism and blocked up the hole as it starts much better without it, you just have to ease it over TDC before kicking.

Other dramas I've had are multiple oil and coolant leaks from the weep hole. The final fix for the oil leak was to put an internal circlip into the case next to to weephole to prevent the seal from moving and uncovering the weep hole. Only took me three cover gaskets and bearing/seals before I sussed this out! I devcon'd and redrilled the weephole slightly closer to the outside as well - I think the swedish guy building my bike had a few too many that friday lunchtime. The latest oil leak was caused by the aux shaft nut loosening and trashing the bearing and seal. Loctited it on and retorqued it - seems ok now. Now the w/p seal is gone. I am replacing it with a 6mm wide seal rather than the 4mm OEM part. Will also check the shaft for nicks/out of round. Starter motor and battery packed it in. Oil out the crankbreather into the carb (fixed by venting into a catchbottle). Also had the bike overheat and blow the lower radiator hose off. Also think my counterbalancer is incorrectly setup as it vibrates heaps, am going to check it this week.

So there you go there a bit of a berg brain dump for ya! Information overload! Hope you get something out if it.

Adam
01 fe650e

Since we are on the subject of metal internal engine components shedding some of their skin.....................................

Dale, have you tried cryogenically treating any parts?

It seems the cam sprocket would be an ideal candidate for this treatment.

I wonder if cryo treating the aluminum cam gear would bring it up to the durability of a steel one. Is the lighter weight of the aluminum sprocket much of a performance enhancement?

husabutt said:

Since we are on the subject of metal internal engine components shedding some of their skin.....................................

Dale, have you tried cryogenically treating any parts?

It seems the cam sprocket would be an ideal candidate for this treatment.

I wonder if cryo treating the aluminum cam gear would bring it up to the durability of a steel one. Is the lighter weight of the aluminum sprocket much of a performance enhancement?

Click to expand...

Hi Husabutt,
I have indeed used Cryogenic treatment for various Husaberg (and other) engine components. The results have been favorable. Unfortunately excessive cam sprocket wear is often the result of poor sprocket alignment. If wear continues past that of the initial bedding in suspect said alignment.

Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Dale