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2 stroke map to 4 stroke conversion??

Joined Oct 2012
13 Posts | 1+
Iowa
I almost got a little carried away with out an intro...So this is my first post, been a proud owner of a flashy 11' fe570 big boy for not quite a year now! I've done all the updates and have basically taken a perfectly good 570 S and am 98% done with turning it into a Hare Scramble Machine! I'm in our local off road club and we sponsor a Scramble every year!


Sooo here's my deal, I appreciate all the hard work that went into the development of the 4 S map switch BUT, I can't deal with more stuff on my actual bars, but I really like the 2 stroke switch . I have a 70deg map switch currently, is it possible to convert the KTM 2 stroke map switch over to run my map? Can I gut the nice 2 stroke and 4 stroke switches and put the 2 stroke one back together in a way that will make my 570 happy? I use hi or low and if I want stock I could just unplug right?

I have not seen the inside of the 2 stroke switch so if anyone would have any idea if this is possible I would appreciate any help. Thanks again!
 
Hi chums,
Yes I agree the 2 Stroke Map Switch looks great. I only use Hi or Low settings too. I can't see a use for standard. Low for Knarly goat country riding and Hi for everything else. I think Hi would give the best fuel economy too for all those looking to get every last drop out of a tank on a long ride, as the timing is advanced more than the other 2 settings.

You need to find a 2 Stroke Map Switch and a Multimeter. Set the Multimeter to the Resistance Scale (Ohms) and measure the resistance on both Switch Positions. Remember don't touch the Metal prongs on the Multimeter leads or the wires from the Map Switch while you are measuring resistance as your body resistance will affect the reading results.

Post up what the resistance is and I can tell you what to do.

Davo.
 
Davo said:
Hi chums,
Yes I agree the 2 Stroke Map Switch looks great. I only use Hi or Low settings too. I can't see a use for standard. Low for Knarly goat country riding and Hi for everything else. I think Hi would give the best fuel economy too for all those looking to get every last drop out of a tank on a long ride, as the timing is advanced more than the other 2 settings.

You need to find a 2 Stroke Map Switch and a Multimeter. Set the Multimeter to the Resistance Scale (Ohms) and measure the resistance on both Switch Positions. Remember don't touch the Metal prongs on the Multimeter leads or the wires from the Map Switch while you are measuring resistance as your body resistance will affect the reading results.

Post up what the resistance is and I can tell you what to do.

Davo.


Thanks for the offer Davo, this may take me a bit since I don't know anyone that has one. I do have a dealer about an hour away that I may be able to talk into checking one out for me?? I will work on this because I would really like the 2 Stroke switch set up! Thanks
 
I just got off the phone with KTM they are checking to see if this info can be released and call me back. I'm not expecting much back so if anyone knows this ohm info it would be much appreciated.
 
According to two source's the KTM hard parts 2 stroke map switch is just that...a switch on/off. The mapping is pre programmed into the bike and the switch turns it on or off nothing more nothing less.

So with that in mind what do you think? I have a better feeling now that this is possible!! :cheers:
 
Hi chums,
If it is just an on/off Switch, use the picture on the right for Low and High Map.
If you cannot get the 8.2K Ohm Resistor soldered across the Switch connectors, you will have to cut the 2 wires from the switch in a convenient spot and solder the 8.2K Ohm Resistor across them. You have to cut 1 wire anyway to solder the 6.8K Ohm Resistor in series.

Map+Switch2.jpg


There is some good reading in this post:
FE570 Map Switch
 
Davo said:
Hi chums,
If it is just an on/off Switch, use the picture on the right for Low and High Map.
If you cannot get the 8.2K Ohm Resistor soldered across the Switch connectors, you will have to cut the 2 wires from the switch in a convenient spot and solder the 8.2K Ohm Resistor across them. You have to cut 1 wire anyway to solder the 6.8K Ohm Resistor in series.

Map+Switch2.jpg


There is some good reading in this post:
FE570 Map Switch

I hope nobody takes offense but this is so much sexier than most other map switches JMO. Thanks Davo I can pick one of these up for $70-$80 and not worry about plastic breaking or having extra stuff on the actual handlebar! I should be able to unplug and get stock mapping so life is good! Thanks again. oh and when I pick one up if anything is different I will chime in.

1_8244.jpg
 
Hi Davo

I don't know nothig of the 70deg, but if you want to have the soft, standard and agressive, positions you will need a 3 positions switch ?? Is that right ?

:cheers:
ZAGA
 
zaga said:
Hi Davo

I don't know nothig of the 70deg, but if you want to have the soft, standard and agressive, positions you will need a 3 positions switch ?? Is that right ?

:cheers:
ZAGA


Yes and no....if you don't have a map switch the map the bike is running, is "stock". With the three position switch one of the positions is basically telling the bike you don't have a switch hooked up which tells the computer to run the "stock" map. If you use a two position switch you can set it up for "hi" and "low", as illustrated above, and unplug it so the computer doesn't think you have a map switch which will put it back to the "stock" map.

A two switch is not as convenient as a three since you would have to unplug it to get the stock map. I have had the three way and I only ever use hi and low and in the rare occasion I would want stock I have no problem unplugging it.
 
zaga said:
Hi Davo

I don't know nothig of the 70deg, but if you want to have the soft, standard and agressive, positions you will need a 3 positions switch ?? Is that right ?

:cheers:
ZAGA

Yeah ZAGA, you do need a 3 position switch, but the difference in the Maps is not that noticeable.
I just flick to Soft on tha hard stuff, think it gives me a extra bit of confidence in my mind.
Most of the time Aggressive is perfect.
That 2 Stroke Switch looks really neat compared to the others on the market.
Cheers,
Davo
 
Husaberg already has a kit to do what I think you want to do. It uses the 2stk switch connected to the 4strk dial switch as on/off switch. In one position it is "open" giving you the standard setting and in the other position it is in whatever setting the dial switch is set at. You would have to pick what setting ahead of time and then you could switch between standard and low or high setting. The directions say that you do not have to shut off the engine just let it go down to idle and it will reset. Here is URL.

http://shop.husaberg.com/us_en/pure-tec ... witch.html
 
onbarn said:
Husaberg already has a kit to do what I think you want to do. It uses the 2stk switch connected to the 4strk dial switch as on/off switch. In one position it is "open" giving you the standard setting and in the other position it is in whatever setting the dial switch is set at. You would have to pick what setting ahead of time and then you could switch between standard and low or high setting. The directions say that you do not have to shut off the engine just let it go down to idle and it will reset. Here is URL.

http://shop.husaberg.com/us_en/pure-tec ... witch.html

That looks like the two stroke switch but how does it connect to the four stroke switch? I didn't get that you could hook them together from the item description? Do you need some kind of adapter to connect the two? Thanks
 
As far as I can tell the switch that mounts to the handlebar is really just a open or closed switch. The dial switch has the resistors in it to effect the ignition mapping, so the dial switch plugs into one end of the open/close switch and the other end plugs into the wire harness where the dial switch would normally plug into. When you set the bar switch to open it is like not having a switch at all, so the ignition map would be standard. When you set the switch to the closed position it completes the circuit from whatever you have the dial switch set to back to the wire harness where it would normally plug into. You would have to decide what ignition map you want other than standard for the next section of your ride and set that at the dial switch, lets say easy or low for some wet tree roots, then you set your bar switch to open or standard and when you come to your slippery section you set it to closed which connects the dial switch setting thru to the ignition map to retard the timing for less wheel spin. You would do the same for the aggressive map but you will have to stop and change the dial setting first. I did notice that the kits wire harness is made for the 13's which have the dial switch mounted in the air box and the 09-12's are mounted under the head light so you will have to do something about the extra wire length.
 
onbarn said:
As far as I can tell the switch that mounts to the handlebar is really just a open or closed switch. The dial switch has the resistors in it to effect the ignition mapping, so the dial switch plugs into one end of the open/close switch and the other end plugs into the wire harness where the dial switch would normally plug into. When you set the bar switch to open it is like not having a switch at all, so the ignition map would be standard. When you set the switch to the closed position it completes the circuit from whatever you have the dial switch set to back to the wire harness where it would normally plug into. You would have to decide what ignition map you want other than standard for the next section of your ride and set that at the dial switch, lets say easy or low for some wet tree roots, then you set your bar switch to open or standard and when you come to your slippery section you set it to closed which connects the dial switch setting thru to the ignition map to retard the timing for less wheel spin. You would do the same for the aggressive map but you will have to stop and change the dial setting first. I did notice that the kits wire harness is made for the 13's which have the dial switch mounted in the air box and the 09-12's are mounted under the head light so you will have to do something about the extra wire length.


Ok I see, I have the 570S so I never had the dial from the factory I had to add on the 70 deg switch. I would just need to figure out how/what wires to wire together between the 70deg switch and the two stroke switch is all. Thats Cool Thanks!
 

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