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2 questions: speedometer tire set at 1790 reading 8km slow?

Joined May 2007
78 Posts | 0+
Norway & Domincan Republic
2 questions: speedometer tire set at 1790 reading 8km slow? i recently (3 months ago) set my tire size on my speedometer for a 17 supermoto front tire. however, it's reading about 6-8km to slow, which means it's also reading distance at a shorter range than normal. I.E i just traveled with a friend for 207km, but my speeedomter said 188.9. my question is this: by resetting the front tire size either up to 1810, 1820, etc. or down to 1780, or 1770, which one will adjust my speedomter so that it is closer to correct?

2nd question: (Way off topic!) my buddy is thinking about buying a yamaha 250X in order for he and I to travel across south america. I plan on taking my husaberg simply because i cannot afford to purchase a new bike. On the yamaha 250X, the recommended valve adjustments are every 26,000km!!!!!!!!!! however, on my 550 husaberg it is what?? every 10 or 20 hours or so. my question is this: how on earth is a 250X going every 26,000km between valve adjustments, and why is 550 requirring it so much sooner?

PS. Do you think my 550 could make a 3 month South America tour of nearly 6 hour of highway driving day, everyday?
 
RE: 2 questions: speedometer tire set at 1705 reading 8km sl

This is what I think on your first question. :?:

If you were to put a smaller diameter wheel on your bike the wheel woud be turning faster at a given speed giving you a higher speed reading!
Obviously you won't be doing this, therefore due to the calibration error you some how have you need to tell the speedo you have a slightly larger wheel than you actually have, this will make the speedo read slower to suit the fictional larger wheel and closer to the correct speed with the smaller wheel you are actually using.
Please correct me anyone if I am mistaken.


Steve
 
How do you set your speedo wheel size, I'm sure I read that they were pre set on the new model computer / speedo?

I understand than many car makers set their speedos at approx 7 km/h under the actual speed as a built in safety margin, first time i encountered this was with a hand held GPS opperating whilst driving around, and i have seen it since with those new road sat nav units, maybe this is a built in buffer accounting for tyres with a larger rolling diameter?

I would have thought that the berg would do fine in respect of valve adjustments - I definately wouldnt do them every 20 hours!

Azza.
 
If you program a larger wheel size in your speedo, it will think that for every revolution of the wheel, a greater distance has been traveled. This will get you closer to true, if you're now reading slow.
If the 207km was accurate, then you need to program (207/188.9)*1790=1962mm as wheel circumference. (My 17" with a distanzia mounted is 1865mm)

BTW, the best way to measure your tire circumference is by making a mark on the bottom of your tire, and a corresponding mark on the floor. Then, sit on the bike and roll it exactly one revolution of the wheel. Make another mark on the floor, and measure the distance between floor marks.
 
the very basic answer to why a wr250x is doing 2600 between valves and your isnt.

well stick em side by side and do a drag race, which one comes out on top?

theres your reason.

550 is a performance enduro bike.

wr250x is a trail bike specifically designed for not requiring much doing to it.

there are other reason but thats basically it.
 
valves

I'd say it's because wr250x is using shims under bucket for valve adjustment (and because the cams don't use ball bearings etc.....)

other than that you'll have to be very patient... the wr produces about 30hp (crank :lol: )


*what i meant is : shim under bucket = not using rockers..... Rocker arms are more prone to wear than cam over bucket/shim design.........
 
RE: valves

WR250x is exactly 1/4 of an R1
tried and tested for millons of KMs by now...bulletproof ...with correct maintenance
but yes only 30hp :lol:
 
I will probably get shot down in flames for suggesting this, but I'd certainly take the 'berg on a long distance tour like you mention.

The published maintenance schedules are written around the bike being used for what it is designed for - being raced or ridden hard at very high revs. For touring you are probably not going to be pushing it. I'd gear it so it revs as slow as is comfortable at cruising speed and throw out the recommended maintenance schedule for the trip. At low revs the valves will probably do the entire trip without adjustment. Do them before you leave then listen for them making more noise than usual or the bike getting hard to start. You will both have to do some maintenance during the trip and it is not the end of the world if you do have to do valve clearances in a campsite.

Keep an eye on oil level - at least every day, maybe twice a day at first. They don't hold much and if it uses some it can easily get low. I always overfill mine by leaning it over to the right and filling it till it overflows out the fill hole - about 1.2 to 1.3 litres total. It may smoke a bit from time to time but is generally OK. Change it when you can with the best oil you can get your hands on at the time. If not getting hot or working hard then I'd be OK with 1000km to 1500km+ intervals.

For a long trip you may want to take care of your butt! A sheepskin overcover for the seat looks dacky, but is well worth it!! Are you sure you need to do 6 hours every day? This is a long time on the bike & is OK every few days, but you gotta take time to stop and enjoy the trip as well!!

Again, this is only my opinion. It is how I have used my bike on long trips and hasn't been a problem to me so far.

Make sure you keep the rubber side down. Healing while riding a bike ain't too much fun...

(PS. I am jealous! Enjoy the trip.)
 
Thanks guys for all the responces. i wouldn't be doing the South American ride until next year sometime, if it even gets off the ground? Talk is cheap, and my friend and i are professionals at it. We have Doctoral degrees in it. He wants to do the trip on the yamaha 250X, while i would be doing it on my husaberg. still, i couldn't agree more about changing the seat to something more comfortable, something after-market + sheepskin. i'm currrently taking my Husaberg on a one way, 3 hour bike ride to santo domingo about once a month, cruising on the highway betwen 85km-100km. i have a 40 tooth rear sprocket and supermoto tires on it, and the engine seems to be quite comfortable cruising at this speed. It's not burning oil. but because of the current stock seat, i have to stop every hour or so to rest my butt. the current stock seat is not highway conducive!!
 
Approximately, what is the horsepower and torque of a 2008 550FE? In comparison to the 30HP Yamaha 250X, it would be interesting to know?
 

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