1999 won´s start - Ignition Problem

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Joined
Jul 29, 2002
Messages
201
Location
Zwiesel, Germany (Bavarian)
Hi all,

sorry for a further thread to this theme, but maybe you can help me quick. (link to fitting threads maybe)

A Fe600 1999 has a engine rebuild in 2005 by a husaberg garage.
The mechanican maked a test drive round his garage, all seemed ok.
one month later he got a new cdi with new plug for the ignition plug.
with the cdi the bike runs 20 min, then it stopped agian.

Until this the bike stands losen in the garage corner.

The mechanician has done nothing concrete to repair it.
He think as far as he can remember it was a weak spark available.
Yesterday I went to him and checked the stator:

2780 Ohm at black-red
160 Ohm at black -green.

The nearly new cdi was dismounted, I picked it up, it is now in my car besides a multimeter.

(With a second used cdi from my old 501, I dont now ob this part is ok)

What are the further steps i can do?
Gauging the CDI with the multimeter?

I want space out a failure of the cdi.
When ok I will it fit in the bike and surch further..

What do you think?
 
CDI units are much more reliable, than the stators.Your problem probably leads in bad stator.Just have a word with our friend Sparks from Spain, or alternatively, visit his web site http://www.uk-motoplat.com/ and giv'em a ring
He is your man.Highly recommended.
 
Yes I tried to achieve sparks.
I saw he was online here before 3 hours.

OK, the stator is under the normal 3000 Ohm and bad, but he is in the +- 10% I have read here anywhere.
But the engine was running and stopped short! I assumed the coil was broken.

When I can gauge 2780 Ohms it is not broken.

OK, I will surch here for the measured data´s.

Maybe i had luck and the ignition point is out
 
Husa98 said:
Yes I tried to achieve sparks.
I saw he was online here before 3 hours.

OK, the stator is under the normal 3000 Ohm and bad, but he is in the +- 10% I have read here anywhere.
But the engine was running and stopped short! I assumed the coil was broken.

When I can gauge 2780 Ohms it is not broken.

OK, I will surch here for the measured data´s.

Maybe i had luck and the ignition point is out

Hi Husa,

The readings you have taken are slightly low as is the Green to black measurement of 160, this could be due to the temperature you are measuring them at. If the temp is lower than 20C 68F then you will get a lower reading.
Make sure the Black ground lead from the cdi is a good connection to the frame, and check all other connections.
I would say it is pretty rare to have 2 broken cdi's.
There are no measurements you can do to the cdi with a test meter.

Regards

Sparks.
 
steve

i note from your site you have the black/green as 160 but my specs read 168.

armin
i have done a lot of these lately and they appear to be shagged out at this time of year on 2850 or below and not the books 2700 (3k - 10%) so i reckon it's gone. easily the best test is to swop with a good one.

regards

Taffy
 
the bike stands in a garage without heating.
I think it was about 8-10°C
 
Have you checked the stator readings loaded and unloaded. Mine read ok unloaded (ie nothing connected) but as soon as it was wired in the readings disappeared.

Sparks answered this query for me but I cant remember what he said, but basically I changed the stator & all was well in the world again.
 
arkley123 said:
Have you checked the stator readings loaded and unloaded. Mine read ok unloaded (ie nothing connected) but as soon as it was wired in the readings disappeared.

Sparks answered this query for me but I cant remember what he said, but basically I changed the stator & all was well in the world again.

the stator is in the bike.
the black, red and green wires are not connected, the CDI was out.
 
Connect the wires back to the cdi and push your meter prods down the bullet connectors to get a reading. Thats exactly what happened with mine. Looked fine when not connected - rubbish when connected
 
arkley123 said:
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=4654&highlight=

read this ---if the link works

Thanks,
but I have printed out the thread one weak before and studied it.
Although now the hardstart guide.

on afternoon I will do the gauging with connected CDI.
 
Yesterday it becames a twist


the measured datas are:

pluged.
red-black 2790Ohm
grenn-black 138Ohm (im not really sure its right)
yellow-blue: 0,8 Ohm

then kicking without the sparke plug:
30 V AC!! not often, mostly about 20 - 26 V, but 30 V sometimes.

A regular spark was seen!!! (and it was not dark as the night in the garage)

OK, new fuel in the carb. Plug in, kicking.

( I can´t really kick the engine so fast as without the plug, besides I have to kick with the wrong leg - my left ankle has a hurt)

The carb has to be checked and cleaned, the fuel runs over, the float needle jet gets not close)

But after play a few minutes it does the first sign of life.

Kicks back a little, and smokes out the frame (open air filter)

This remembers a second time.

I put the piston on DOC, mounted the ignition cover.

(on DOC the right mark is in the middle of the top cover crew.)


The mark on the stator is 1 mm right of the right mark of the flywheel.

I have two manuals:
the 1999 english says:

Non-e-starter models: mark on the stator is aligned with the left mark
E-Starter.... with the right mark.

2000 german manual says:

400+501 without E-Start: left mark
600 + all E-Starter models: right mark.


so when the marks are right the ignintion point is really late.
Backfire is a sign for a too early spark, or?


The other idea was the camshaft was out one teeth.

But the bike was running with new camchain - unlikely i think.

Now, the ball´s in your court!

thanks in advance.

armin


















.
 
Husa98 said:
red-black 2790Ohm
grenn-black 138Ohm (im not really sure its right)

well, i'm no electrical expert so why it's left to me i'm not sure.....
but i have been getting readings of 2850 ohm and still the units are useless. so your 2790 is IMHO a no-no.

fet an exchange SEM from sparks mate. suggest that that unit was never new but that someone said "here is one with low miles on it so it MUST be ok!".

you can 'roughly' check the cam timing 3 ways. get a protractor on the crank and place it like the one in the doc showing the real TDC. they are ALL 5d out so just copy that. then using a T-bar and a socket write down the moment the cam opens and closes on the inlet, exhaust and then the cross point.

3 chances to say the cam timing is right OR take the cover off and look.

regards

Taffy
 
suggest that that unit was never new but that someone said "here is one with low miles on it so it MUST be ok!".

?????Taffy????
 
yours was pretty! so that made it "brand new!" :lol:

and we did check it out.......

and you were desperate.... :oops:

so i took yer money.....!!! 8O

regards

Taffy
 
Today I meet the bike again.

First tried the spark without the plug connector.
From the wire the spark "flys" 12 mm to the case.
kicking normal, without spark plug.
I think the spark is really good!

Second checked the TDC.

turnd the flywheel with the hand.
marked the flywheel aligned to teh cover screw exact when piston reaches TDC.
This results in a mark like in the owners doc shown. a mark right from the genuine right mark.
The stator was as right as he can in the long hole (later ignition)
monted the cover: the stator mark was now on the new flywheel mark, or maybe 1/2 mm left.

I think this don´t care - engine have to start!


filled some fuel in the carb.
kicked slowly 3 times with choke, choke out, kicked.
after some trials the same effect: "Pufff" - little kickback and smoked out the frame/airfilter.

Then I turned the stator in the middle of the longholes: further ignition.
engine stopped sometimes the kicking, then "puff" again.


I knew nothing about the jetting of the carb.

But what can be wrong:

- CDI? it is a ICU/DEE 40, 85519100, 25021701
- camshaft out of timing one teeth?

Anything else, but not the ignition???

Please help!!

armin
 
have you a smell of petrol?

is the plug wet?

do you have a spark (blue)

IMHO you haver a spark and the rest is good - it's the fuel? try a thimble of fuel dropped into the sock. try a drop in through the plug hole even?

regards

Taffy
 
Have you looked at the valves & springs to see if they are closing properly? :?:
 
I kicked not so long until it smells of fuel an becomes a wet spark plug.
Problem is the backfire.

Remember:
The engine was rebuild, and the he runs good for 20 min. Then stopped!
Thants what the mechanican AND the owner talked to me.
Are both telling me a fairy story?

When it is no iginition problem, i think about something ist wrong with the valves (timing)

I can remember I had similar effect with my 501 after changing the camchain and I was wrong one teeth.
Had he forgotten the camchain tensioner and it jumped over??

OK, now after 3 Years the carb would be dirty maybe. But this can´t be the reason for the astonishing stop .

Next step:
take a look through the valves cover.

then open the rockerarm cover..

I had the bike not bought until yet...
 
you must now take the plug and put it in a gas flame until there is an orange flame and then refit it. or have other new (cheap) plugs ready. try no choke for many kicks and then choke for one on then one off etc.

it would be a good idea to check the cam timing and then get the tappet clearances correct afterwards

regards

Taffy
 

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