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1997 FE501E (USA Spec)...just got it, should I keep it?

Joined Jun 2004
4 Posts | 0+
Beaverton Oregon
Okay, I know this sounds like a dorky question but this is my first 4 stroke dirt bike and I still have my 99 KTM EXC 200 and will need to make a decision on which one to keep pretty soon.

I just bought the 501 and after an oil change took it out for a 25 mile ride in some technical woods outside of Portland Oregon. It was a bit if a change from my EXC but I absolutely loved the power and the bike is uber stable at speed and an absolute blast to ride (I really think that 4 stroke power is the way to go in the woods!). The issue I have is that I've noticed some problems with it already and am really questioning the maintenance practices of the former owner/s. The concerns I have are as follows:

1. It seems to be leaking oil slightly from the left side (side stand side of the bike) of the head gasket. Is that normal? I may have put slightly too much oil in it by going a bit above the "min" screw line. Are the bikes that sensative to oil level?

2. It smokes profusely for a very short time upon starting and I mean blue smoke as in burning oil vs black smoke as in too rich. Again, did I mess the thing up by putting a slight amount too much oil? The smoke stops after about 20 seconds and then stops smoking completely and doesn't seem to be continuing to burn oil so that one is puzzling.

3. The plug is dark and oily (again probably related to the above but somewhat contradicts # 5 below).


4. It is hard to start with the e-start, it has to crank about 20+ turns will backfire slightly and then will start up. It appears to be running too lean since turning in the A/F screw shortens the starting period. However, it does start fairly easily kick starting which makes me question the valve adjustment as indicated in the FAQ on this page.

5. The bike seems to idle somewhat normally (with a few slight hiccups but not terribly radical) when cold but once on the trail and heated up the idle becomes erradic especially with the A/F mix at 1.5 turns. It will then occasionally stall in the woods and will be very difficult to start with the e-start and then display some more serious backfiring. A lean condition gets worse when it heats up!?

6. As far as I know the bike is stock except for a big gun full exhaust. I was planning on pulling the carb to check jetting since it could be jetting for the high desert and I am running near sea level and who knows if the previous owner riched up for the new exhaust. I also will inspect for carb boot leaks and and a dirty pilot jet. However the other issues make me wonder whether a more serious overhaul is needed. I am not into it too deeply and have a buddy who would buy it from me simply to have a fun project but I really think this could be a fun bike long term. Oh one other thing I noticed that one of the fork seals is leaking after the last ride, I haven't disassembled a fork but they look pretty straightforward.

Any advice on the causes of the oil smoking, lean symptoms and oil leaks would be appreciated. In general, should I cut my losses or are there less serious issues at play?


Tripwire
 
oil leaks

Tripwire, I have the 02 400, and it weeps slightly from the right side, but not due to over-filling. I always run slightly over-full, and have had no smoking problems. Not sure if you are experiencing a valve problem or cyclinder problem with the blue smoke. Verify that the head leakage is not due to a poor heat to cylinder seal, which may account for the leak and the smoke. Checking the head bolt torque may provide a clue. Best of luck, BD (St. Helens, OR)
 
Tripwire
I doubt overfilling will encouage oil leaks much. I always fill mine till it overflows out the filler spout - it takes about 1.3 litres to do this - and it has only leaked oil out the breather when I have upside-downed it.

From your experience is it burning much oil? It may be worth checking the reed valve is OK inside the LHS engine cover that scavenges oil out of the crancase into the gearcase before checking rings, cylinder &/or valve stem seals.

From your description the e-starting starting is similar to what many people on this site report, but there are a few tweaks that can be done to improve it.

Personally I'd try to keep the berg if you like its handling & size & you are a bigger bloke. I was following a mate on a 99 200EXC & saw him hit a small log across the track, go over the bars & get concussion & two broken arms.
 
Hi Tripwire:

I have a 1997 fx600e. The reed valve mentioned previously is part #220-013-01 in case you require a replacement. Like Brad said if the reed valve goes it will smoke a lot but will not cause any engine damage.

Before the site went down recently their were some good posts with mention of similar carb problems I think. It turned out that the needle and needle jet wear out rather quickly and cause all sorts of jetting woes. These parts will have to ordered separately but the gaskets are available as a kit. Do you have the round slide or flat slide carb?
 
I say keep both bikes. They both have their strong points. You don't golf with one club do you? :thumb:
 
I agree with the above guys. When my '98 gets hard to start, I adjust the valves. It also burps a bit of smoke when started and I don't worry about it; but I can't compare it with your cloud either. I too would replace the reed valve in the case, just as a preventative maintenance function. I also agree that the bike was probably set up for east side riding, as most of the Berg riders that I know of in your neighborhood do most of their riding there.

If you need some local professional service, advice, parts, and/or support check in with the folks over at the Gresham KTM/Husaberg dealership. The guys there are good people and good with Bergs, so give them a call if you need a bit of local help. Anyways, have fun with your new steed!

Barry
 
Thanks guys, I have decided to keep the bike...but!!!!

Thanks for the advice on the berg, I plan on keeping it. I took out the carb and it has some grime in the pilot and I think that was the problem with the carb. I also decided to check the valves and they were in need of adjustment as well...

However, after putting everything back together the auto decompressor doesn't work and my e-start will only turn it a few turns. I double checked my adjustments and I was a bit conservative i.e. I erred on the side of too much play but it still isn't engaging. Any ideas?
 
How much too loose did you adjust the tappets? Loose tappets tend to make them not decompress so good. I've heard some say they prefer to err on the tight side - but only if you're not pulling your valve heads into hubcaps like Taffy! :)
 
RE: keep the berg?

Hi Tripwire,

IRT erring, you should not err on either side when adjusting valves. Too tight and you toast them, too loose(as in your case) and the decompressor won't open them the required amount. Make them spot-on and let us know if the problem persists.

thanks,
json
 
I agree with Jason. If you adjust valves tight to the point where they ride (ie don't close properly) then the gasses whistling past the seat areas erodes them. Too loose is really hard on the valve train as it must deflect more like a spring in order to accelerate the valve off its seat.

Spot-on and erring are relative terms. For a diesel injection technician +/-0.0001mm is a good tolerance. For a builder it seems if he can get away with it without being caught its OK. When adjusting valves you are probably doing well to get better than 0.1+/-0.02mm clearance using either method, particularly since they are such *******s to get at.
 
Again...Thanks very much for the advice. I finally found the time to finish the valve job and everything appears to work. I was a total ***** and had adjusted them at TDC on the exhaust stroke which is why it was so frustrating... luckily I didn't run the engine just tried the estart. Once I figured out I should be putting it on the compression stroke it was a piece of cake.

However, I can definitely hear some valve clicking now whereas before is was almost perfectly quiet (which I understand is a problem). The smoking appears to have gone away as well which from what I have been told could have been caused by the valves not closing enough due to being too tight and letting some oil leak in.

So my final question (at least on this topic) is how much clicking should I hear? It doesn't sound bad but after hearing close to nothing it does seem weird. Also, should it diminish somewhat after a few hours of riding?


So again, thanks alot for all the help...you guys rock!


Tripwire
 
RE: noises in the night?

Hi tripwire,

It's by no means a quiet engine. You should hear the clicking, and some say that it's louder than most 4 thumps. Keep an eye on the clearances for a while(it being new and you not knowing the condition), and any changes will alert you(hopefully) before something catastrophic happens.

thanks,
json
 
When I bought my berg I sold my KTM.
I wish I kept it.You will need a spare bike
owning the berg if you don't want to miss
any rides with your buds.A battery tender
seems to help the battery estart the bike.
KTM 200s are unstable nervous little bikes.
We are working on making an 02 stable.
Just bought s-12s,dampner,and gearing so
we can move the rear wheel back some.
 

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