09 Husaberg 570 Stalling

Hi Camo,

I doubt it is the fuel pump.

Are you getting any flash codes on the FI light when you are having these troubles?

When the bike is running funny is there a lot of steam coming up from the motor, as in having gone through a bunch of loose snow and it piled on the motor and is evaporating?

I would suggest taking the fuel tank off and dumping all of the gas in the tank out replenish it with new fuel. By the way, are you running pump gas? What altitude are you riding at, and how cold was it?

While you have the fuel tank off, make sure that you do not have any chaffed wires, especially the kill circuit, or that any of the connector plugs are loose any where on the bike. Be sure and check all of the wires behind the number plate as well. There are molex plugs back there too.

My suggestion would be to go through every single electrical connector on the bike, clean it with contact cleaner and then fill it with die-electric grease. There is an important relay that is mounted on the down tube at the front of the bike. It is held on with a rubber band. Pull it off and pull the connector out and do the above. If the connections on this relay get corroded it will give you fits and cause the bike to cut out, die etc.....

By cleaning and filling all of the connectors with die-electric grease you will ensure good contact, and make sure that no corrosion can take place.

Your problem sounds like it is an intermittent electrical one. However, I suggested removing the old fuel just in case you have some water down in the fuel pump area.

Also, when you get to your riding area. Be sure and start your bike, without touching the throttle, and let it run for at least 5 minutes. I will let mine run for 15 minutes (there has been debate about how long it should run) this is what is known as a burn in.

Basically, it allows the MAP sensor in the throttle body, and the IAT in the air box to determine the density altitude your bike is at, and adjustments are made via the on board computer to set the map accordingly. This is the most common cause of stalling and sputtering when initially riding the bike. Your case of course is different since the stalling and rough running is coming after hours of riding.

Hope this helps,

Dale

P.S. You do have the cold start button pushed in correct?

i would suggest unscrewing the plug cap from the plug wire and inspect the plug wire for corrosion, the cap boot to the wire is not completely waterproof allowing for corrosion of plug wire (over time). u can try cutting the wire back a bit to get the plug cap screw to bite onto the fresh wire(s) better. Or possibly a faulty wire altogether. My 2 cents.

have you checked the ckoke mine broke once and would not idle its made out off brass had to replace problem fixed good luck

have you checked the ckoke mine broke once and would not idle its made out off brass had to replace problem fixed good luck

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How can you tell it was broken? did the knob still pullout with a click did you have to unscrew it to visually inspect

Spark plug Cap? It has been known to fail.
Mine had similar faults, and for me it was the TPS, and I had to take it to a husaberg dealer to find that out.
I've heard of loose ground cables making similar faults. Check everyone into the frame, also there is a relay under the seat that the nuts come loose.

Skickat från min LT26w via Tapatalk

Fuel injection has a choke (cold start Knob ) its the idle knob when its pulled out it changes the fuel air mixture to facilitate an easier start . The post was questioning if this was left pulled out out or if it was broken

At 2:28 on the video below you can see the choke knob and a description of how it works

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92Yg8egAMlM

keep us posted on what you find or the solution to the problem

cambo said:

Fuel injection has a choke (cold start Knob ) its the idle knob when its pulled out it changes the fuel air mixture to facilitate an easier start . The post was questioning if this was left pulled out out or if it was broken

At 2:28 on the video below you can see the choke knob and a description of how it works

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92Yg8egAMlM

keep us posted on what you find or the solution to the problem

Click to expand...

That is not true. The Cold Start knob does not change the fuel air mixture. It is purely a mechanical device that lets more air enter the engine. The ECU adds more fuel when it sees the engine RPM increase due to the cold start knob being open. The ECU also adds more fuel if the water temp sensor is sensing the engine is cold. This imitates the old carburettor Choke function.

CamoKVF700 said:

Thanks for all the help. I found the cold start, idle knob. I used it this weekend. Works great.

I fixed the problem thanks to you guys. The cap and or spark plug was it. I changed them both. The plug had a hair line crack in the porcelain but the cap looked in very poor condition. My bike ran great all weekend and didn't stall once.

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Great news to hear it was those small items and it was easily fixed

negy1 said:

have you checked the ckoke mine broke once and would not idle its made out off brass had to replace problem fixed good luck

Click to expand...

Still curios about the cold start knob ( Choke :roll: ) I was going to pull mine out and fill it in like the video showed it does get an occasional flame out