09 fe front forks HS compression Too Stiff

Re: 09 fe front forks

I have an '09 570 Tazer and I've been adding shims non-stop in both the base and mid-valve.

but what do I know! :twisted:

regards

Taffy

Re: 09 fe front forks

tazer said:

I'm 35KG lighter than you would that make a difference?

Regards Steve

Click to expand...

not really, I missed my tea last night so we're about the same now! :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

I couldn't say for certain. but for folk say 80 to 110kg I would always say the same thing and that is that the right damping is right and you've just got to get the springs and sags right. I think they are under damped as I say but I always start by trying to get the right springs.

generally you need one set heavier on the later huseys than the earlier bergs.

regards

Taffy

Hi Steve,

you can remove the base valves without taking the forks apart. you will probably need an impact driver and a 19mm socket to loosen them at first, thereafter a breaker bar should work. you can machine or grind the socket down on its end so that you get maximum engagement, also try to use a hex socket for maximum contact. compress the forks a little and hold them there with a strap then flip the bike up like this, remove the base valves



I suggest looking into cimwills thread "09 forks strip" for some stacks

generally to soften High speed without loosing too much LS on the BV you remove some of the shims at around 13, 14, 16mm diameter.

it is always more effective though to address the mid ... see cimwills thread.

there is a method of fork "spreading" that allows you to remove the cartridges and MVs without draining oil or removing the forks from the bike.

It looks like this

you need to use a circlip or a retaining pin to hold the BV assembly in place while you do it.



retain BV, undo BV, undo fork top caps and you can remove the cartridges, can also remove the springs tie the carts up with some rope and let the oil drain back in for a while before you take them, out.

also check the preload on the main springs, more than 3mm will feel harsh, also play with the oil level.

have posted this before but I'll put it up again, in order of most useful effect in improving fork action:

1) maximise fork travel for the springs and for the bike and run minimal preload (i use zero mm) IMHO you are pushing sheete up hill to get good Open chamber forks if you have less than 310mm of travel

2) reduce sliding friction, polish legs and use KYB or 2012 KTM bushes and SKF seals

3) dial in the rebound stack by increasing the time delay (freebleed) on rebound and increasing the HS stiffness

4) lower the MV float (reduce time delay on compression) and increase the possible deflection

5,6,7) increase the LS damping on the BV, reduce the short stroke HS and increase the long stroke HS. (backing system)

almost everyone starts with softening the BV (including me) and while it is the easy way in it is not very rewarding compared to some of the other modifications.

Good luck with it and let me know if you need any help
Cheers
Bushie