08 550FE jetting....

the headers turning blue is normal for all bergs , the kokusan ignition does not show a true plug colour .

noting the above your jetting is therefore very rich.

read the doc and look in disbelief at what we all run. and before you ask - you have the same bike as all the previous 550s back to 2004.

good luck

regards

Taffy

yup your running a little rich. If it starts first kick then stay with that pilot jet, then start to reduce your main jet one step at a time. It makes a big difference. I get my bike leaner, and then its gets colder outside like 30-40F and WOW the bikes leaps in the air. So I think hey I could go leaner, I should drop the main size another step and sure enough it runs mo better. Thats been my game. I am at 42 pilot and 175 main now, but summer is coming and I should drop that main to 170 I figure.

A fat berg runs good, but a leaner Berg really shows its true colors

regarding the ACC pump, do a search on Lineaweaver jet kit. His kit has you remove the acc pump rod. Many here run his needle and ajustible air jet mod with great success.

Take a look at the 07 550 jetting thread we have going. I've got some great advice in the last couple of weeks from taffy and a few others. I'm at 4500 ft and am down to a 165 main but I'm going lower again this week. The 182 is way to big and it's a totally new bike from when I first got it. I'm running a 42 pilot as well which felt to big when the main was so rich but now its feeling spot on.

2_slide said:

Take a look at the 07 550 jetting thread we have going. I've got some great advice in the last couple of weeks from taffy and a few others. I'm at 4500 ft and am down to a 165 main but I'm going lower again this week. The 182 is way to big and it's a totally new bike from when I first got it. I'm running a 42 pilot as well which felt to big when the main was so rich but now its feeling spot on.

Click to expand...

yeah I knew I was too fat at 175. time to rejet

bob

things may not go smoothly first time!

can you cope with that or shall we start the councelling now! LOL!!!

regards

Taffy

Ok lets set the record straight again. I had jetted my bikes succesfull before. On my FE450e Mr Lineaweaver set up my carburetor on my FE450e with settings dervied from his knowledge of Fe650e and Fe550e. Those settings clearly did not work worth a stuff in my Fe450e. Yes I got upset. I was out in the trails with all my friends bragging about my new bad *** carburetor jetting and the bike would not run 10 feet with out stalling. Here is the picture from that day when me and my mates acted quickly to reset the needle two clips just to get the bike to run.

http://render1.snapfish.com/render2/is= ... 50,590,398

It ran ok, seemd to be more bright in mid to high revs, but did not motor quite right yet. Later Dale admitted he was not thinking I had a 450 when he set up the carb. Gee Thanks. Come to learn he didn't even have a receomended jetting directions for the 450 at all what jets? what needle clip? turns out I was to experiment with it all myself.......... Frustrated I went back to the stock MotoXotica settings wich I don't remember on my 450 but it ran good and its started great. I have always said that Dales needle seemed to make the bike run brighter at speed, but I was not happy with the rough two clip adjust I did in the field as the bike never started as easy with that setting and dales stuff, and at low RPMs was still rough. I was not happy Dale did not have a recomended needle setting and jets for the 450. Seemed my loved 450 did not earn the jetting attention of the Husaberg.org loyal 550 and 650 crew here either as no one stepped forward with jetting for Dales needle or even theh stock needle for the 450. Needle clip setting is easy to experiment, but I was not about to start fishing for jets and that adjustible air jet setting with Dales needle on my own.

Now with the Fe550. I am staying with the stock needle and slowly dropping my MJ, maybe Ill even adjust a clip setting. I'm not going to Dale's set up.

Bigbob...I"m right down the line from you here in Oakley, yes thats Oakley not Oakland. Just wanted to chime in and tell you a little about my 07 450 jetting. I think Taffy is right on the money with his suggestion of a 160m and a smaller pilot. I'm using the 160 and a 38 p...really works great and I normally lean toward fat jetting with my experiences with KTM 4-strokes. The berg likes it lean on these two circuits but the cavat is the needle and from what I can surmize from gleaning the jetting links this is where DL is leaning, if I may be so presumptuous. I started out with the OBDVR in the 4th then 5th clip pos. and it was ok but I had some old needles that I wanted to try, OCEMP, OCEMN, NCYR, some homemade needles and an J.D. needle from a 2002 KTM 520. Now I've microed all of these for taper, dia. at the tip and barrel diameter...results, the OCEMP works well on the 4th clip and really starts to perk on the 3rd clip...I'm not a fan of the JD craze but the black needle for the 520 really smokes in the middle pos. and scares the guys I ride with...next attempt is to try the 5th pos. to see if there is a little more pull there....I could yell you the diff between needles but dont want to bore you but generally speaking, richer is better on the needle...by the way, I do have an e-mail with Dale on his suggestions....hope this gives you some direction.

thanks, sounds to me you have sorted thru the 450 jetting options and have a good understanding of tuning and your berg. I no longer have the 450 and now ride my Fe550. Its running good at 42pj 175mj and mid needle clip settings with stock needle, like I say though when its gets real cold out the bike starts to really perk up so I'm ready to down size that main jet again. Though I can rejet, I just dont like making lost of changes so I'm slower to search out the right set up. Besides I'm a slow C rider and happy as I am. My main point in this thread to agree with you all that leaner is better with the Bergs, but its a balance as some come too lean down low straight from the factory. I'm surprized the 38 pj is working for you....but I am not a jetting guy.

Just wanted to let you know that someone feels your pain...Happy trails!

Owners Doc here:
http://www.husaberg.org/wiki/index.php/Main_Page
linked from upper left of screen. Taffy is responsible for much of it and put the original together.

Hi Jamie,

I have an 04 FE550, and here's what I'm running in the carb, this set up is for 4500' msl, and 40-65 degrees F.

Honda NCVR needle @ #3.
Honda accelerator pump diaphragm (limits squirt to 1/2 second)
AP timing gap at .130" or one turn in from stock, and stock is .100", have a look in my gallery for a picture of this. (this eliminates the rich stutter when the bike get's warm)
R and D AP spring (this replaces the spring that drives the black arm that inturn drives the ap rod, gives a much stronger ap pulse when opening the throttle quickly, you will need this if you open the ap timing gap beyond 1/2 turn in)
R and D adjustable leak jet ap cover ( you probably don't need this, but, it is a nice tuning aid)
Factory Pro emulsion tube
40pj
100paj (stock)
162 or 160 mj
200 maj(stock)
fms set at 1 & 1/4 to 2 turns out to suit conditions.

The stock jetting is milk toast compared with the above listed jetting. With above listed jetting you can roll on the power easy and have plenty of controllable usable power, or whack it open and have it respond like it's on the squeeze ( slang over here for nitrous oxide injection).

It took me a long time to come around to the leaner main jets, but they work. Just keep working your way down and you'll see. Keep in mind however, that once you drop about 10 in mj sizes you will probably have to raise the needle a clip position. My predicition is that you will end up some where around a 160 to 165 main jet and pos #7 on the needle. Have fun it's a great journey!

Hey Dale, I like your comments above. Ive got an 07 fs550e and am running almost the identical set up:
165 main
42 pilot
stock air jets 100 + 200

My question is on the needle and pump. Why are you running the Honda needle and how does differ from the DVR? (from what i know about needles only the taper should be different D - C ). I also have played with my pump squirt with the oring but found that stock seems better? (a bit of a bog with out the oring but roll on wheelies in third which I cant get from the oring mod) I wanted to try the R&D cover with the adjustable leak jet so thoughts on that?
Thanks

2_slide said:

Hey Dale, I like your comments above. Ive got an 07 fs550e and am running almost the identical set up:
165 main
42 pilot
stock air jets 100 + 200

My question is on the needle and pump. Why are you running the Honda needle and how does differ from the DVR? (from what i know about needles only the taper should be different D - C ). I also have played with my pump squirt with the oring but found that stock seems better? (a bit of a bog with out the oring but roll on wheelies in third which I cant get from the oring mod) I wanted to try the R&D cover with the adjustable leak jet so thoughts on that?
Thanks

Click to expand...

2 slide,

The main difference between the DVR and the Honda CVR is the L 1 length, the L1 lenght on the Honda needle is much shorter see the honda needle chart in my gallery and the one at the Kehin site
http://www.keihin-us.com/am/tuning/ Look in the jet needle changes there. The DVR has an L1 length of 75.55mm, where the NCVR has an L1 length of 59.41mm, and as such is much richer.

Have a look at Buzzards $40 FCR spruce up thread in the fuel section kind of explains it all.

Being that you have an FS I don't think that you encounter the heat issues that the FE's do in tight going off road sections, and that's where you start to get the dreaded rich stutter when the engine and carb get heat soaked when there isn't enough air flow across the radiator and engine. You can also start to get this rich stutter if you go up in altitude, or, rather, it will show up much sooner. If you go to the thread I started about the R and D adjustable leak jet ap cover in the fuel section there are some great contributiions there from other members.

Member Viking has set his slide at 5mm ( he had the same rich stutter problem), and then set the ap rod at zero clearance there, thus, making the ap not actuate until the slide is open 5mm. Typical slide opening at idle is around 1.25mm for the larger bikes like ours. However, I chose the trial and error method of increasing the ap timing gap a 1/4 turn at a time until I did not have the rich stutter. I have yet to measure my slide opening when the ap rod is at zero clearance, but, I bet it's really close to Vikings 5mm.

However, it is critical that you have a really thick tight fitting O ring around the ap arms, or the R and D spring to keep from having a lean bog when you whack the throttle open. In fact, I found that the thick O ring supplied by JD was not sufficient to keep from having the lean bog after a while as the O ring seemed to lose some of it's strength.

Enter the R and D spring, for $20 USD, it's a cheap mod, and you don't ever have to worry about the O ring breaking.

The R and D adj leak jet ap cover is more for fine tuning, aka getting just the right amount of ap squirt that you need by allowing more or less fuel back into the float bowl. You can literally dial in a lean bog, or dial it out within about a 1/2 or 3/4 turn of the screw from where you initially set it, which is about 3/4 of a turn out. As a side, you will notice a slight increase in fuel milage once you have the leak jet set as you won't be squirting excess fuel through the ap into the motor, all things being equal.

And although I have not tested without it, I believe a critical piece of the puzzle is the Factory Pro High dispersal jet emulsion tube http://www.factorypro.com/ look on the left side of the page for emulsion tubes. This will make the bike very responsive, almost like it's on the squeeze!!

Hope this helps,