My FE 550 had been running great until my last ride. I started to hear a little noise from the motor. Nothing much at all I thought. We headed back to the cars and I dropped the oil. Oh nooooooo! Large chromed pieces of metal on the drain plug magnet. Nothing like I have seen on any of my drain plug magnets even when previous bikes had done gears. I think it must be a bearing race or something. I have taken it to the local dealer whom I bought it from. Anyway it started to make the noise just before 60 hours. Now has 61.1 hours on the clock. According to the manual the main bearings should be replaced at 60 hours. So I think it should be a warranty job as it is still inside the 12 months warranty period. Have been running motorex 10w50 and changing it about every three hours, five at the most. Running a Rekluse Pro. Assuming it is the main bearings, what if my dealer says no they had to be replaced at 60 hrs anyway?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
take them a couple of cartons of beer if that don't work find someone else who really wants to help.
what was the crank end float at 10 hrs ?
another 550 toasted, sheese dem 550s might need lighter pistons and lighter stiffer cranks. you can get both those bits OEM, easy just buy a 650 :wink:
Hi Bushie, I don't know what the crank end float was at ten hours. Should I? In the owner's manual would that be the, 'Check the eccentricity of the crankshaft journal'? The Periodic maintenance schedule says that is to be checked at 60hrs too. Should I have checked it earlier?
I'm very disappointed that the motor has blown something at 60 hrs. I get at least twice that out of my KTM EXCF 250s before I have sold them, and I race them in enduros. I bought a big bore so I am not revving it as hard and expected to get much, much longer life out of it.
I'm very disappointed that the motor has blown something at 60 hrs. I get at least twice that out of my KTM EXCF 250s before I have sold them, and I race them in enduros. I bought a big bore so I am not revving it as hard and expected to get much, much longer life out of it.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
ah dunno really what your supposed to do. my dealer said to check the endfloat after 10 hours I guess the cranks sometimes flex into a new happy spot during run in and close up the float.
I know what my end float is before and after every ride since mine wanders about. I have "correct" interference fits inside the engine but things move when the engine is hot. if anything moves in there the endfloat goes down
if its zero and sometimes is, i warm it up slow and then push the crank back accross to get my end float back.
not a definitive answer but just part of the puzzle, its easy to check the runout and endfloat of the crank with the stator cover off, its the heart of the engine so why not?
if the dealer wants to "upgrade" your bike with the NTN ball LHS I would insist he uses a collar to lock the crank in place. its an OEM part apparently as is the seal. the ball bearing by itself does not allways lock the crank in place I have a 550 engine in my shed with the ball/roller thats failed 20-30 hrs.
just MHO
there are hundreds of others...
I know what my end float is before and after every ride since mine wanders about. I have "correct" interference fits inside the engine but things move when the engine is hot. if anything moves in there the endfloat goes down
if its zero and sometimes is, i warm it up slow and then push the crank back accross to get my end float back.
not a definitive answer but just part of the puzzle, its easy to check the runout and endfloat of the crank with the stator cover off, its the heart of the engine so why not?
if the dealer wants to "upgrade" your bike with the NTN ball LHS I would insist he uses a collar to lock the crank in place. its an OEM part apparently as is the seal. the ball bearing by itself does not allways lock the crank in place I have a 550 engine in my shed with the ball/roller thats failed 20-30 hrs.
just MHO
there are hundreds of others...
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