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07 650 stalls from idle

Joined Aug 2008
3 Posts | 0+
Hi,

thanks to this forum I now have a new 07 FE 650, which I received in a crate. During the past weekends I've been slowly assembling it together. So far only one issue, when I yank the throttle open from idle, the engine stalls 1 out 5 times, it just stops.

The jetting is the "unthrottled", with the parts that came with the bike:

Jetting: MJ 160, PJ 40, Needle OBEKR (2nd position) and PS at the moment 2.0 open
Engine won't stall with a closed PS, but revs will drop 200 rpms (measured by tiny-tach).

I'm also a bit puzzled with the manuals, as the 2005-2007 repair manual states PJ 45 and needle position 4, but the 2006-2007 owners manual PJ 40 and needle position 2 for the EKR.

I'm burning to finally drive the beast on a trail, but not in this condition. Prior buying I tested a new fs550 and it had exactly the same behaviour.

Any hints what to try out first?

BR, Nikke
 
you have a tight engine and you are revving the bike how it would never happen in the real world. please go into the doc on the left of your screen and into carburation. you come under the title of "paddock stand jetting"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

please put your location in your signature and also your bike and year as well.

and try and say hello as well.....

regards

Taffy
 
I think we need to start a special "make sure you say hello to taffy / signature scrutineering" post.

Azza.
 
Real life

Ok, I guess I need to clarify. I meant that I refuse to take the bike onto a trail, until it stops stalling from iddle - not that I haven't driven it. The bike stalls randomly when opening throttle, be it in motion or on the paddock. Period.

I've read most of the jetting threads including the doc carburation part, but there isn't much written on the standard EKR set-up.

The 650 has plenty of power for me to handle, so I'm not in the quest for an ultimate power curve jetting, just a reliable response. I expected the standard setting to have decent driveablity out of the box and if not, then a short tip from someone who has faced the same problem.

BR, Nikke
 
Nikke, the 07 model has a carby....so if you take it out of the box & try to ride it around the Himalayas your going to have problems :roll: Put some hours on the bike out the front of your house ( so you dont have to go on the trails ) & in between read different posts on the site about carb tuning. Unless your at 5000ft above sea level you shouldn't have to change too much apart from the pilot setting & possibly the ap.

Taffy has some very good advice to offer & you might want to consider his suggestion of putting your location & model in your profile so we can all see where your at & wot on.

Word up Azza ! :lol:
 
wildman said:
Unless your at 5000ft above sea level you shouldn't have to change too much apart from the pilot setting & possibly the ap.
= Thank you wildman, I'll continue running it some more.

I've scratch built a small aeroplane including the engine to operate it (carburetor, turbo) and it now works up until 14000 feet. Doesn't do the Himalajas, but OK to cross the Alps.

If an engine doesn't work on a stand as I expect it to, then I don't "just blast away like an idiot and hope for it to cure itself" unless I know better.

Short visit, but I'm out. I'll try to find a technical discussion somewhere else.
 
Short visit, but I'm out. I'll try to find a technical discussion somewhere else.

taffy's comments were right on (the part about studying the doc). the way it runs on the stand and on the ground performance are related but not a good comparison for proper performance. you need to do some testing with varied changes to optimize your machine, keeping in mind that these machines in general were supplied with a lean needle and an over rich main and ap squirt to compensate. there's a wealth of info in the archives and the doc about how to get it right.
try not to pay attention to our bantering with each other at your expense, we're mostly AB o FW. :lol:
 
This has nothing to do with the jetting of your bike but I read back through your post & thought I'd let you know that the last berg I got had 20hrs on it & seized headstem bearings & next to no grease in the wheel bearings. Seeing as though you got this brand new I'd spend some time when you're next working on your bike to check & grease these, it'll save you money down the track. Good luck with the tuning. :wink:
 

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