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06Fe450e valve clearances?

Joined Oct 2005
687 Posts | 0+
Folsom, CA
still dont have my owners manual, downloaded one but left it at home. I'm at my parents house for Thanksgiving and would like to check my valves. Is there a link to instructions for checking and adjusting my husberg valves? or if some one could walk me thru it with a few sentences - most appreciated. My stepdad is a old flat track race mechanic so he can help me I really just need to know the clearances and tolerance range for the exhaust and intakes

thanks

PS have 14 hours on the bike, runs great getting more bottom end like you guys said it would. 14/50 gearing is awesome, and I'm learning the meat of the powerband and the gearing/tranny, Bike climbs hills great once I learned to shift up, give it throttle and haul *** up that hill, no slow poke stuff gotta run it up there.
 
Remove gas tank and shrouds. Remove valve access covers. Set piston to top dead center on compression stroke. Check clearance ,.004 cold on all, adjust by loosening the jam nut and turning adjusting screw.
 
Go to Husaberg.se site and download the 06 owners manual. If the info you're looking for is not in there, then you could use the 05 repair manual, as it has been expressed here that there was not any significant changes to the 06 models.

Hope this helps,
 
BB

Sounds like you and the berg are 'bonding', happy to hear!!

Remove the valve covers and spark plug. Use the kick starter to roll the motor over, after the intake valves return to their closed position, use a long zip tie to feel the piston reach tdc. Adj the valves at this point. Using feeler gauges will drive you to drink. Adj the screw one eighth turn from valve tip contact. Not a farmer trick, the berg engineers use the same technique. You will not know specifically how loose or tight the valves are, but you will get a idea at least of their situation.

Get yourself a 10mm box end wrench with a drop end to gain access into the jam nut.

happy wrenching

fry
 
An advantage of the "1/8 turn" method is that you can easily ascertain the current valve clearance, i.e. how loose or tight the valves are by observing how loose the adjustment screw is. For your information, KTM RFS models use the "1/6 turn" method for 0.005" clearance. 1/6 turn is easier to do than 1/8 turn since it corresponds to one flat of the hex adjusting nut.
 
yup Dan motoxotica confirms 0.004" both intake and exhaust.and 1/8 turn method, which I heard before gave on 0.003" ? I like feeler gages, but I guess I'll seee when I get in there.

thanks for the replys. I'll have some pictures of the Jedi in a few days from my recent trip. yes I am way hooked on the berg in the single track. It's my main ride. still love my 510 too. It's taller bigger bike that fits me well. great fun driving down the hwy with a Husaberg and Husqvarna in my truck bed.

a B rider friend who rides a KTM 400 exc 4 months ago enjoyed my Husky power but found it wide and "sluggish" - guess he didn't like it, he got to test ride my Fe450e this week while I was at Clear Creek with him and some guys. He was very impressed, thought it was nice bike. The bike has such a natural winner feel to it. every body likes it.

comments on wide ratio, seems wide normally but on hillclimbs the powerband seems narrow around each gear. in other words it falls off hard on the low end and taps out instantly on the high end. makes a rumble at the top of high end is that the rev limter? I learned to shift in the high middle of the power band and then as you shift up give it more gas, then it roars up any trail or hill even faster. works good that way getting my 250lb butt up some steep soft soil hills, while my te-510 has the power to spsare I can play in and around the gears, still able to roll out of something too low or scream it too high,

Does the husberg have a rev limiter? something to know.

I know I think I over rev'd it in first gear like 3 weeks ago on my first hillclimbs cause I was used to the 510. It like started rattling like ?? Now like I said I shift the husberg more correctly in the mid upper RPMs and with more gas its stays pulling and accerlerating me up the hills. sweet fun.
 
The problem with the 1/8 turn method and not using feeler gauges is that if the adjuster turns at all when you tighten down the lock nut you just adjusted your valve(s) too tight. My reccomendation is to ALWAYS double check the lash with a feeler gauge.
 
It was mentioned to me at one point to leave the feeler gauge in the gap and then tighten the locking nut.
Is there any truth to this method?
 
Chas said:
An advantage of the "1/8 turn" method is that you can easily ascertain the current valve clearance, i.e. how loose or tight the valves are by observing how loose the adjustment screw is. For your information, KTM RFS models use the "1/6 turn" method for 0.005" clearance. 1/6 turn is easier to do than 1/8 turn since it corresponds to one flat of the hex adjusting nut.

1/8 turn is 3/4 of a hex flat :wink:
 
Daleo

You are absolutely correct about the adj changing when you tighten the jam nut. That is why I use the drop ended 10mm box end, so you can hold the screw adj with the driver and still tighten the jam nut.

fry
 
kelsow said:
It was mentioned to me at one point to leave the feeler gauge in the gap and then tighten the locking nut.
Is there any truth to this method?

Thats the way I have learned to do it! I leave the feeler in and hold the screw while I pretighten the locking nut with a wrench. If the feeler feels right then I torque the locking nut. If the feeler still feels right (snug but can still be moved back and forth) then I'm done and remove it.

Regards, Joe
 
JoeUSA said:
kelsow said:
It was mentioned to me at one point to leave the feeler gauge in the gap and then tighten the locking nut.
Is there any truth to this method?

Thats the way I have learned to do it! I leave the feeler in and hold the screw while I pretighten the locking nut with a wrench. If the feeler feels right then I torque the locking nut. If the feeler still feels right (snug but can still be moved back and forth) then I'm done and remove it.

Regards, Joe

Hey Joe,
I use the same method as you. Seems to work great!

Log 8)
 
I was disappointed to see the owner's manual has no step by step directions for checking valve clearances or adjusting the valves. My Stepdad and I did open the valve access covers and take out the spark plug, but tried to use the rear wheel while bike in gear to move the piston. it was too tight to do that. I realize now we had it in first not second which may have made it so hard to move the piston......also two posts above someone said use the kick starter to rotate the cams and bring the bike to TDC... but I forgot to try that.

My stepdad and I stopped at this point becoming unsure of ourselves on my new bike, deciding that I should wait till I get home and read the owners manual hoping it would have pictures and step by step instructions of the procedure like my Husky manual has. Turns out my Husaberg owners manual only gives the recommended service intervals every 15 hours for checking valves but gives no valve checking/adjusting guidance at all.

Does Taffy's owners doc have instructions for this simple procedure? or doee the 05 Service manul has directions/ pictures?

I know you guys told me what to do above, but I am a newbie mechanic and I like to take things slow and by the book. I got no book. where should I turn?
 
look in the down loads under the "hard to Start Guide"

also the Husaberg maintenance videos show briefly.

seriously tho, it isn't that hard if you understand how the rockers, cams, and adjustment assembly operate.

read the guide and go thru it step by step. I used it the first time when i didn't know anything. It took me about 3 hours because i triple checked everything. after a couple of goes, it will take 45mins tops.

if you can get one of those dogleg feeler gauge it makes it easier.

Have Fun
Jeff
 

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